Hello All,
Looking for the better miter saw. I have and love my old cast iron based 10 inch Rockwell, but need a compound saw. Does anyone like the Hitachi slide saws?? Or what ever advice on others you can recommend.
MArk A.
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I have the 10 inch Hitachi SCMS. It is a few years old. Is a very nice machine. Have used it from everything from rough framing to fine trim work, and it has always performed great. Mine is mounted on a folding stand. The newer Hitachi models has a much better (easier reading) miter scale. My older version givces me fits...too many numerals too close together when reading the scale. Buy the newer version. I would not waste my money on the laser line version...this really is not needed...is very easy to align saw to cutline without such a gimmick.
Am still impressed with the Makita LS10 SCMS. It has some great features. Both the Hitachi and the Makita can make bevel cuts on both the right side and the left. I've also used a 10 inch Milwaukee SCMS. It was built very rugged. It worked OK, but was not nearly as easy to set up when beveling.
If I was to buy another SCMS, I would not buy a 10 inch model. I would buy a 12 inch model because it has more capacity for cutting larger stock on edge. I prefer to cut my trim stock on edge using the miter function, rather than laying flat using the bevel function.
The saws are a bit on the heavy side...they weigh approx 40 pounds. They are bulky and will not transport easily in the trunk of a car...which is something to consider. Although I can coax my Hitachi into a car trunk...I never had any luck with my friend's Milwauki SCMS...just too bulky. Always had to transport this one using my truck.
Again, if it were me, Id opt for the 12 inch Makita LS1212 SCMS. It is currently $649 at Tool Crib. I would not buy the 12 inch Hitachi cause this model is still using the same old miter scale system ( only the 10 inch model has been upgraded so far) and it currently costs $100 more than the Makita.
LOL on your search.
Davo
Take a look at the Bosch 12" or Milwaukee 10"
Who ever invented work didn't know how to fish....
Love my double compound DW. Best saw I've ever used. Nice thing about the double compound is being able to tilt the saw to the right. This saw will cut 6½" baseboard standing up and 8" on the flat. I have always found the sliders have their uses but non-sliders are consistently more accurate IMO.
Turtleneck
I'm with you turtleneck, The DW 12" has worked well for us for years. the only thing we change is blades and switches. We work two of them hard building decks and they get pretty abused tossed in and out of the truck and left out in the rain overnight, but they keep on cuttin.
Sliders are good for siders."Rather be a hammer than a nail"
Bob
I've always been afraid to take my 12" DW outside. I do nothing but finish work and I've treated that saw like a baby since day one. I did have to tweak the settings a ¼ hair when it came out of the box but she's been bang on ever since. Adding 12" Forrest Chopmasters to my collection of blades was like going for the turbo option......sweeeet!
And now you tell me I can throw her out in the rain????
Sorry, Bob, not my Baby. Turtleneck
I'm amazed that the table that the chop saw sets on has not delaminated in all the years is has been used in the rain. I don't know what kind of material it is made of but it looks like MDF. I thought it would swell up and come apart by now but it still looks good as new.
Here is a shot of my stand and side rollers I had my "machinest" son make for me, the plastic ones broke. I filed for a patent and then Dewalt went and changed it's configuration.
You probably have the new Dewalt stand w/o the table. How do you like that? "Rather be a hammer than a nail"
Bob
Thats a pretty slick rig. I haven't gone digital so you can only show me yours. Ha! We use waterproof MDF for basement window box-outs, maybe thats what you've got, I never left it out in the rain to see what would happen.
I can't use stops along my rails because I "bend" miters to get a tighter fit. I was using a homemade plywood stand for years untill I picked up a portable stand for service work. I liked it so much I tossed the plywood one. The thing is $40 cheaper today than when I bought it a year ago for $150 CDN.
Probably a little light for your work.
Heres the link http://www.wolfcraft.com/product_detail.cfm?id=117 Turtleneck
That's the stand I am looking for, where can I get one?
I've seen them at Home Depot. Better look at one before you buy. To me, they look flimsy.Quality repairs for your home.
Aaron the HandymanVancouver, Canada
Thanks Aaron and Turtle. I'll check them out at the local HD and CTC stores.
Tom
http://www.wolfcraft.com/product_detail.cfm?id=117
I'm in Canada Tom. HD stocks them here and Canadian Tire Stores have a knock-off version.
The cheapest I've seen them was $109 Canadian
Why not contact the company thru the above link for dealers near you Turtleneck
I can't use stops along my rails because I "bend" miters to get a tighter fit
Can you explain this technique?You get out of life what you put into it......minus taxes.
Marv
When I have a lot of windows to case, I measure up a cut list, "Lock " the miter saw at 45º and start cutting. I cut all of my casing from one side, which means the right hand miters are cut upside down. My blades are exceptional and there is no visible tear out on the faces of these cuts. Most importantly the saw does not move off of 45º.
When you begin to assemble the casing on the windows you will find that some miters don't fit properly. Windows are occationaly not square, installed poorly, whatever. So you cheat the miter, a little off the toe or a little off the heel. I NEVER unlock my miter saw off 45º. So I shift the casing on the table to shave the over or under cut that I want. I call it bending the miter. Turtleneck
>> I call it bending the miter.
The miter is still straight after all... just the terminology
When you flip the casing upside down, how do you compensate for the fact that the miter cut is now out of plumb to the back of the casing? What kind of blade do you use to give you a smooth cut like that?
Tom
Oh, for a perfect world where all of the window jambs are flush with the drywall, never in or out.
how do you compensate for the fact that the miter cut is now out of plumb to the back of the casing?
On standard casing (thicker on the outside than the inside) the upside-down cut (with the face of the casing held flush on the saw table) takes a slight bevel off the back of the miter. This surprisingly makes the miter easier to fit, you just have to try it.
This cutting miters from one side was originally a result of necessity. As 'angled' walls became the rave, smaller houses had little room to flip lengths of casing. There was no room for an outfeed for the miter saw. So we cut them from one side. I was surprised to find how well the miters fit. From a production standpoint, its faster and I find, more accurate because I'm not flipping my saw back and forth and back and forth. Also I'm right handed so I find it more comfortable to make all of my cuts from one side of the saw.
What kind of blade do you use to give you a smooth cut like that?
I use Forrest blades, but any quality sharp blade will give you good results because , if you think about it, a standard miter done on a table saw would cut through the back of the casing first. The leading edge of a miter saw blade is actually cutting upstroke. MDF casing has a tendancy to face flare when cut upside down. I use 100 tooth 12" FS blades for MDF
Turtleneck
I always thought the easiest way to cut casings is to have two saws, one set at right 45 and the other at left 45 so there is no moving back and forth.
Now you convince me to flip and cut upside down and that sounds logical. I'll give it a try and probably never look back. Thanx.
I am on my second 12" DW. It is now my shop chopper, along with the awesome old DW RAS.
For the jobsite, I use the 10" DW model. I am on my third one. After a couple thousand miters, they all seem to burn up.
rg
I`ve got the Makita LS1211, although I think its been upgraded to the LS 1212. I can`t say enough good things about it. Worth every dime.
J. D. Reynolds
Home Improvements
"DO IT RIGHT, DO IT ONCE"
I use the DW 12" slider. I have had it for about a year and am very happy with it. I had some reservations at first because there always seems to be something with my DeWalt tools that I dislike. At any rate, its accurate, not too darn heavy and has excellent capacity. From what I remember there are accessories available such as stops, hold downs etc.
And thats my 2 cents.
BOSCH 4412
'nuff said
"The child is grown / The dream is gone / And I have become / Comfortably numb " lyrics by Roger Waters
BOSCH 4412
'nuff said
Who ever invented work didn't know how to fish....
Whatryatryintodo?!? Make people think we're brothers? Oh, hey, what shirt are we wearing tomorrow?
"The child is grown / The dream is gone / And I have become / Comfortably numb " lyrics by Roger Waters
Medium grey pocket. But if you prefer make it the chartruse.
Who ever invented work didn't know how to fish....
I concur with some of the other posters. The Dewalt 706 dual bevel saw has been a really good saw for me. You are able to make very small adjustments to it and it is pretty quiet. I have the 96 tooth blade and the cuts are crisp. Make sure and pick up one of their #723 saw stands. I makes a nice package and the cost is reasonable for the product, $199.
I HAVE USED BOTH THE HITACHI C-10 FS WHICH IS A DUAL BEVEL SLIDE AN EXCELLENT SAW I MUST SAY, BUT WHEN I BOUGHT ONE I OPTED FOR THE DE WALT DW708 DUAL BEVEL SLIDE FOR ITS CAPACITY AND ITS EASIER TO READ MITER & BEVEL GUAGES I ALSO RUN A 96 TOOTH FREUD THIN KERF BLADE
JUST WONDERING IF ANY ONE KNOWS IF FORREST MAKES A 12" 96 TOOTH
CHOPMASTER BLADE I HAVE BEEN TO THEIR WEBSITE BUT DID NOT SEE ONE
ANY ANSWERS WOULD BE HELPFUL
Edited 10/9/2003 10:10:51 PM ET by mitchellizer