Hi All,
I recently purchased a new Milwaukee 6494-6 10″ compound miter saw. I hadn’t used it much till recently and I find the cut quaility sub par.
I’ve used 3 blades none super quality 2 Milwaukee’s a 40t and a 60t and a Delta 50t. Lot’s of tear out on the underside and ridges one would expect from a blade with a tooth out of aligment. 40t worst performer. The cuts are bad enough that that doing trim it leaves a noticable gap.
Everything is dialed in square and plumb.
It’s under warranty but the store is back ordered till November! and I got a great deal on it so…I’m starting to think bad saw though.
Could most of my problem be with the blades?
What’s a good blade that’s not too pricey and can withstand some jobsite terrors.
N
Replies
Try a good 80 tooth blade and adjust the rate you're pushing the blade through the material.
I've had good luck with Freud blades I have a Forrest chop master on one of my saws but it's to spendy for me justifying using at work.
Pushing down to fast will give a rougher cut then a smooth moderate rate.
Also let the saw get completely up to speed before plunging down.
Not sure if you were or were not doing any of this but....
Edit: Make sure the blade is designed for use in a miter saw, I believe Phil Giles gave a good description in the design of blades for different purposes not to long ago...
Never be afraid to try something new. Remember, amateurs built the ark, Professionals built the Titanic.
Edited 6/27/2003 1:30:09 AM ET by CAG
CAG gave some good advice, 80 T. blade & slower feed rate, I,ve got 2 Milwaukee miter saws 1- chop box & 1- sliding compound. I found the Milwaukee motors seem to take time to get up to speed , I also make several cuts to my trim. It seems even the heavy body saw blades tend to deflect a bit on the first cut so I raise the blade again & cut again with out moving the wood. I use delta, freud & CMT blades, always 80T.
Good Luck
I wonder if it's a bent or crooked arbor.
Smile. It could be worse. You could be me working for you.
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"I wonder if it's a bent or crooked arbor."
That's what I was thinkin',
But unlike a table saw it's difficult to put a dial indicator on it and get and accurate measurment. The blade is easily deflected a couple.001" just turning it as you have to over come the motor.
I was getting about .010" just past the expansion slots. I got crazy and set up the dial indicator on the middle of the blade and turned on the motor for a second and could see about .025". That's a lot.
Milwaukee has no specs for run out and says return it.
But the store has no other and I got it for almost 1/2 price plus a 60t blade.
Dang it!
N
Take it to the repair center, get it fixed or replaced if you like it.
I would return the saw, what good is the half price if the saw is defective. I own the Milwaukee slide saw, best saw I have ever used. I have used almost every compound miter saw and slidesaw made. I like the Makita compound mitersaw best, Milwaukee slidesaw , best of sliders.
mike
I bought a Milwaukee slider about 5 years ago. I had it about two hours. After several blades were tried I decided the problem was wobble in the arbor. I replaced it with the DeWalt slider and never looked back. The Milwaukee only beveled one direction too which was inconveniant.
Thanks for the advice,
I returned the saw and was "forced" to get a Makita LS1030.
It seemed like the logical thing to do!
Tools are cool!!!
N
Buy a cheap HSS "hollow ground planer blade" and do some test cuts. If they are still crappy, it's the saw. Steelkilt Lives!