I’m looking around for plans for a simple, inexpensive yet sturdy miter saw stand. This summer, I’ll be working on a summer cottage my wife and I recently purchased. The saw won’t be moved from job site to job site so I really don’t want to invest $300-$500 for one of those commercial stands. I think Norm had a show devoted to making a miter saw stand but, if I remember correctly, it was more elaborate than what I want. I guess I could just attach a 2×12 to two saw horses with rollers shimed at each end to support the stock. But, there may be better solutions?
Discussion Forum
Discussion Forum
Up Next
Video Shorts
Featured Story
Prescriptive codes don't address the connection at less common angles, so base the connection off more typical ones using bolts, structural screws, blocking, and steel tension ties.
Featured Video
SawStop's Portable Tablesaw is Bigger and Better Than BeforeHighlights
"I have learned so much thanks to the searchable articles on the FHB website. I can confidently say that I expect to be a life-long subscriber." - M.K.
Replies
Several years ago FHB ran an article on sawhorses which included a mitre saw stand. It used a 2x6 on edge as the "backbone" and 3/4" plywood cut in an "A" shape for the legs. Thought I could find the specific issue, buy couldn't - seems my collection of FHB is spread in too many places. Try searching their web site or contacting them for availability of that issue. Sorry I couldn't be more help - if I find it I'll post it back here.
It was july 1996, #103, page 53. I built one like the one shown several years ago and like it, though a new and improved version may be comming.
TGW
If you don't want to build a stand, I would highly recommend either of the Stablemate stands made by Iowa Manufacturing. These things fold up and the saw mounts on a special bracket which means you can mount or unmount the saw on the stand in under 10 seconds. The basic model costs about $90, and the deluxe about $140 which has extensions out to about 9ft. overall and wheels. I had looked at the $300 and up stands and used some of them, but I tell ya the $140 Stablemate beats the crap out of the others, especially for the price. JMHO.
Ken Hill
I agree with you...I've used / abused about all of them. Last one was the Trojan...Poor thing lasted 2 weeks. The Stablemate so far has been the best of them, although we keep loosing the nuts that hold the supports. (Probably from the vibration of the road)
My vote is Stable Mate all the way. Very professional, and very handy, stout, and fast to set up and take down. Its so small folded up I think it would fit in a sports car.
I dont care if you are working on a cabin ,and your not planning on moving it around. It should last you the rest of your life, and your heirs.
But then , look at me . Im a tool freak and you dont wanna be like me for sure .
Tim Mooney
I've got the stablemate and it's been a real good setup to me. I got the $89.97 (or so) at home despot and use my makita LS1013 on it. it folds up nice and fast and set's up in less than a minute. for the bucks I don't think you can beat it.Steve
S.J.MERRETTE Carpentry & Construction • Robesonia, PA
Nothing is impossible...It just hasn't been done yet.
Steve,
Is your slogan Nothing is impossible...It just hasn't been done yet trademarked? I'd like to use it for my invention company I'm starting called "Innovations In Motion." Let me know$ Bill
Let me check with my lawyer...Steve
S.J.MERRETTE Carpentry & Construction • Robesonia, PA
Nothing is impossible...It just hasn't been done yet.
Chip, if portability is not a concern:
1) 2'x8' 1/2" or 3/4" ply base
2) 2x 1 by 2 full-length maple runners, about 4" in from each side, on-edge, attached by screws from the top.
3) saw attaches to this base using jig fixtures: sockets in the base and bolts with knobs on them as holddowns.
4) 1' x 4' 3/8" ply ramps on either side of saw with blocks (could be ply, hardwood, or just pine) to raise it to match the height of the saw's table. These can be permanently attached, or easily made removeable, they will over-hang the table at each end. A back fence is optional, if you put on one on, make it tall enough to brace crown or baseboard on-edge.
5) sit all of this on two of the bargan plastic saw-horses you see all the time at home centres, or, buy a set of the horse brackets and make a set with 2-by, or, make a set of horses as a nice weekend project. A pair of clamps will hold the table to the horses, more interesting attachments can be made.
Feel free to be creative with the design; some people use a 1' x 8' ply to make a dust-stop for the back of the stand, put a couple of hooks in it, and hang their spare blades or what-ever on it. The ply thicknesses are not critical, I've made one entirely from a 4 x 8 x 1/2" sheet and 3x 1 by 4 x 8' maple boards (makes, base, ramps, runners, risers, back, bracing, and hold-down blocks)
Phill Giles
The Unionville Woodwright
Unionville, Ontario
CHIPTAM,
I was actually in the market for a miter saw stand a few years back, or at least I thought I was. I looked at several different models all $150 and up. I am a creature of habit and am much more comfortable working off of a bench top. I could not justify spending that kind of money on a stand that does nothing more than hold a saw. I decided to build a bench top and sit it on top a pair of folding sawhorses. Using pressure treated 2 x 4`s, 3/4" PT plywood and galvanized decking screws I framed a 3 ft. by 6 ft. top that doesn`t mind being left in the rain on occasion. Although you stated mobility is not a concern, I doubt any of the stands on the market set up much faster than dropping the benchtop on a pair of knock down horses. With the added benefit of being able to cope, router, clamp and a plethora of other tasks right there at the "work station", I don`t see how anyone was ever convinced to purchase one of those saw stands. Save the cash for a night out!
J. D. Reynolds
Home Improvements
"DO IT RIGHT, DO IT ONCE"
Thanks for all of the feedback on my question. I'll take a look at those articles in FHB mentioned in a couple of the replies. Phil Giles and J.D. Reynolds, thanks for the excellent descriptions on how you built your miter saw stands. That gives me something to shoot for. My shop is really busy right now and time may be a factor as I head off to work on this cabin. If so, I'll take a look at the Stablemate at Home Depot. I'm not familiar with this stand but the price is right and it seems to be choice of those who replied.
If ya want cheap, and portability without having to spend any time building it....
I found an old student desk at a garage sale for $5. It is about 5 feet long, with drawers on the right hand side, and an open cavity on the left for the chair to sit. I added wheels on it, and now have a CHEAP, very strong miter saw stand that rolls around the shop. The drawers hold the blades and accessories. It is made of oak, and solid as can be. Total time spent on it was about 20 minutes putting the wheels on it. I like recycling old furniture, especially chest of drawers, and desks for shop set ups. Cheap, strong, and versatile.
Just a thought...James DuHamel
J & M Home Maintenance Service
"Southeast Texas"
Shopnotes #58 had a set of miter saw plans. Fence and saw slide from the center to one end for long cuts and also has fences for both. Sets up between two sawhorses. Try shopnotes.com or augusthome.com. Good luck. Ken
I'm not familiar with the thing these guys area calling a "stablemate". Sounds like the guy who takes care of the horses.............(-:
But if it's like my old Black and Decker Workmate, that's what I use. I make an extension table out of sawhorses and whatever lumber is lying around.
Redneck Extraordinaire