Hi All:
The thread on sliding compound miter saws has moved into talking about miter saw stands. I saw a nice review in JLC this month about stands. Anyone have a favorite? For the price, I liked the StableMate from Iowa Manufacturing in the JLC review…and have heard one good thing about it in the other post. Is it strong and stable? looks a bit flimsy in the picture in JLC.
Others? Comments? I know we have talked about portable table saw stands…these are a little different. Build your own? Etc.
Replies
I have the Portable Sawhelper Ultrafence by American Design & Engineering and am quite pleased. Costs a bit more (think I paid $350-$400 for mine with an9 foot left table and 5 foot right) , but the flipstop makes it worth it - not only for repetative cuts but for all cuts, especially if you have a rookie cutting for you. Can set the stop and make the cut faster than pulling out a tape and pencil and then lining mark up with blade.
If it wasn't for the flipstop on the stand by American Design, I would probably gone with the Delta Sidekick - nice unit where I could keep the saw on the stand, big wheels for moving, and integrated roller stands that really help with stock support.
My two and a half cents worth,
Shoe
FYI
just noticed that this thread was in the construction techniques area - should probably have been posted under tools
i have had a stablemate for 4 years now....no compaints here.
Same as Shoeman, I have the Sawhelper. After 10 to 12 years it still as good as the day it arrived.
i got the stablemate last year. i like it. if i were buying one now i would look at the dewalt. it has the flipstop for repetitive cuts some of the other guys mention but the portability and ease of use of the stablemate.
paul.
I bought the Stable Mate . I love it for these reasons ; strong , very portable , allows me to uncrank the saw from the stand ,and price. I am also looking at the dewalt for my slider which is mounted on a homeade bench in my shop. There are times I would like to have both saws on the job.
Tim Mooney
I have a dewalt 12" csm mounted on a delta sidekick stand. The combination puts the saw at an ideal height for me. I mounted the saw to the far right and built a short table extension on the left. Using the original delta roller supports, I have drop-on long tabe ext. if necessary. For my mk wet tile saw I resorted to making my own foldable, rolling table after not being able to find an acceptable production unit.
Mauleboy- I put my Dewalt 12" CMS on a delta sidekick also and really like it's portability. I was curious as to your drop-on long table extension you mentioned. Could you elaborate? Do you do anything with a sawdust collection set-up besides the little black bag?Half of good living is staying out of bad situations.
REZ, I'll take a dig pic of the saw extns and post it for you (please give me a couple days as I surf as time allows). In regards to dust collection, I've tried me tool vac behind in place of the bag: however, the saw flooded it during fast cutting. My larger shop vac was better, but there was still blow by that never made it to the factory dust pickup. rather than spend any more time on it, I resorted to using the bag and cleaning after :>(
MAULEBOY- You're saying that bag WORKS?
To All- I have the improved Stablemate w/sliding extensions for my Dewalt 12" CMS. Excellent and only $140. My guess is that a SCMS like the Dewalt would not balance well on this stand.
Ken Hill
Here are a couple of pics to explain my table ext. REZ. (if no picture shows up, its because i'm prone to screwing up at 2am)
interesting mirrors on the truck; do I see 4 surfaces ? .
Phill Giles
The Unionville Woodwright
Unionville, Ontario
Yea, trailer size can be annoying. Have factory, plus small convex for use w/o trailer and mirror extensions (cars hide in the big blind spot). On extensions I have large convex for tight corners and city driving, and outer mirrors to see who is drafting me. Trailer can be a pain to drive with; However, I wouldn't want to do without now that i'm spoiled;>)
Now ya got me started on the trailer. Is the dual axle that much better and how much do they generally run?Half of good living is staying out of bad situations.
Dual axle trailers so tend to carry more weight and track straighter. My trailer is a 20' car hauler. The framing is more substantial, the weight rating higher, and it has brakes on all four wheels. Weight is an issue, with a full load of tools the trailer weight is about 9000#. Also important to note is the stability provided by using a large enough truck to tow with. I'm much more comfortable using my dually diesel than using my single rear wheel diesel (if ur a michigan driver and like to pass with a large trailer I also recommend a real diesel not a power joke ;>} ). cost for a 18 - 20' starts about 3500 stripped and runs up to about 5500 loaded.
Mauleboy, those pictures are killing me. Seeing as Luka missed this one I reduced them. It wasn't a big deal to get them close to fitting on the screen, and drop the size fom 500k to about 20k. (how can you tell I'm on a dial up?)
Where the heck is Luka?
Thanks__________________________________________
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
http://www.quittintime.com/
I absolutely love my trac rac mitre saw stand. I have two scms, so i had to buy and extra "plate" for one of them, and the optional extention wing is handy also. This thing sets up in about thirty seconds and is stable with a 2x12x16 on it. If it broke tomorrow, I would drop everything and go out and replace it.
Sorry, I didn't pay attention when I uploaded. Thanks for making them more user friendly.
Kevin
Not a big deal, you're welcome.
I got distracted and never got to ask how you like that fold down rear door. Also , do you have a side door on that trailer for when it is raining, etc.
The rear door works great for me. Given that it was designed for automobiles, you can use it as a level work surface by placing blocks or 4x under rear lip pads (I much perfer that to placing tools in loose dirt or mud). I also don't crank my back loading and unloading gen. big saws, ladders, or materials. I use a two wheeled hand truck/dolly to transport small tools. I lay it down so the platform is vertical and have plywood mounted ......ok I'm not doing well describing this, I'll just take a picture. Anyway, using the cart to haul tools saves by back and alot of time. The trailer does have a single large door on the side that I can also remove the larger stuff from if necessary. I'll drop in a picture showing perspective. since we got on this tangent, I think I'll start a new thread on trailer organization and tool retention. I've been looking for new ways to stash my stuff.
Edited 8/31/2002 10:12:07 AM ET by MAULEBOY
I am starting to weld my trailer frame tomorrow.I am going to make it two levels with the first level being 16 inches tall fully enclosed with doors all the way around.The second level will be a solid floor with large tie downs in the floor.I am going to use the second floor to seal the first level.the second level will be to haul my materials.The second level railing will support my aluminum ladder rack.I am going to set my tool boxes on top of the rails so that I can slide them back and forth.I am thinking about making the back tail gate cover an opening in the middle of the first level to put an extenson ladder in.The trailer will have dual 6 thousand pound axles with surge brakes and be made out of 2 x 3 square tube steel.If y'all have any suggestions please replym soon.
ANDYSZ2
Sounds cool. my only input is to be careful with heavy materials and corners. I don't know exactly how far above axle centerline the material platform is. probly not bad with first level deck between wheels, and could get top heavy if your first level deck is above wheels.
Thats a good point I hope the tools, nails , etc. will be enough to lower center of gravity. I also hope tandem 6 ton axles will keep it stable.
ANDYSZ2
qtr.. thanks.. spent the weekend on Mink Hill.. no cell service.....one of these days..Mike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
Is that your only phone up there? Oh well, don't you go up there to get away from it all?
Next time you get up this way give me a shout, I'll start a fire and send smoke signals.
i have a dewalt 12" sliding compound miter saw and i mounted it on the HTC portable tool stand. the stand costs about $250. it's easy to set up and the size of the wheels make it easy to get up a set of stairs.
Totaly agree with the shoeman,,the Saw helper is the best,,I have one in the shop, and one for the jobsite,,love it,,coudent do my job without them,,,John Hyatt deckmastesllc.com
I like the site built miter saw stand for framing homes. I use a pair of stout horses for a foundation. Currently I am using a 3x10 plank of spruce about 25' long for the table base. On top of the plank I build up on 2x blocks and ply shims a table flush to the table of the miter saw out of 2x pine I salvaged. The table extension boards should fit tight to the miter saw to lock it in the same place everytime. I use a bar clamp to hold my DeWalt 12" SCMS to the whole assembly. I use a kicker block under the saw to prevent sagging and to put a slight crown in the table. I set the saw up near the material pile so it is easy to feed the saw off the pile. When made out of salvaged and bonepile wood, this setup doesn't cost me a thing if you don't count the saw.
if you want the . dw723 check out amazon.com.
http://www.amazon.com/
Take $20 Off
Right now, purchase $199 worth of products and take $20 off! Whether you're buying for the , the job site, or for home use, shop now for and save.
they have it for 229 use the special 20 buck coupon in the upper right corner on the home page, choose the free special ship method ....you will get it for 209 tax free!!!!!
also found this 20 buck off is good on several
enjoy
ray