Getting started on a tile job in my shower and have a condition that might require a back miter.
Its the end of a 2×4 that should be wrapped in tile. I am using 8×10 porcelain tile. The inside of the wall is the inside of the shower the outside is the main bathroom.
I bought one of those chinese 10″ wet saws from harbor freight(thanks to the recommendations on this site) and it is working quite well (Already finished 300 sq ft) of floor tile in another room.
It came with a miter attachment so it looks like I just need to practice on a few scraps and set up to rip the end tile to slightly more than the 4.5″ wall width and then back miter the edges.
Any hints on this process?? Do I try ease the cut edges with a stone? Should the vertical grout line be the same width as the rest of the wall or narrower?
Thanks in advance.
Replies
The grout line at the 45 can be either the same size as all the others, or else make it zero so it looks like one piece of tile wrapping the stud. If you want to go the zero width route ... cut the miter about 44* so the tips touch before the back of the tile, otherwise you might not be able to get a tight joint. Is the color of the tile all the way through, or is it a glaze? If it's solid, you can lightly chamfer the edges of the tiles so they'r not sharp.
Whenever you are asked if you can do a job, tell'em "Certainly, I can!" Then get busy and find out how to do it. T. Roosevelt
Tile is glazed so althought the color is similar the finish is a bit different but fortunately any imperfections won't show to much.
Thanks for the help. Love this site.
Cut the tile to 46-7 degrees, then ease the edges using some sand paper on a very flat surface. The cut edges will be VERY sharp so the is why you'll want to ease them AND be very careful when doing it.
Practice with the offcuts of your previous projects. Cutting 45's square is very hard. You may want to either make a jig for it or "improve" the miter jig they gave you to accomodate your shortcomings.
F.
They make stones to ease the edges, but any 100-120 grit sand paper will work.
Regards,
Boris
"Sir, I may be drunk, but you're crazy, and I'll be sober tomorrow" -- WC Fields, "Its a Gift" 1934
I always cut the miter with about a 1/16th proud and use a pourclin touch up paint on the edges or nothing at all.
No way can you cut the tile sharp without a few tiles chipping and not to mention...its too sharp an edge that one can really hurt ones self on.
I figured that its almost not worth mitering em after about fifty trillion tile jobs I've done (slow learner).
I polish the end of the tiles that are in your face now and butt em'.
Either or.
Be well
andyThe secret of Zen in two words is, "Not always so"!
http://CLIFFORDRENOVATIONS.COM
another way to go can be using a trim strip from Schluter or a competitor ...
if you are going with a standard grout color ... you may fine a trim strip that matches.
Jeff
Buck Construction, llc Pittsburgh,PA
Artistry in Carpentry
Were bullnose tile not available? If so, the way to do it is to cut the bullnose and put two of them on the end of the wall. You'll have a grout joint right down the center.
Another option is to use a different tile that comes in a bullnose that complements the field tile.
I'm interested in the tile saw. Sorry I don't have any advice as just started tiling myself not long ago and still learning some of tricks. But was the tile saw from harborfrieght Chicago Electric. I need a newer, bigger, tile saw. I bought cheap one at first , just in case i didn't like tiling.
Been shopping. I have a chicago elec. impact gun and also their power planer. they work nicely.
thanks
tyke
just another day in paradise
It is the 10" Harbor Freight saw, with the stand. Their blade was backordered so I got a Dewalt blade at Lowes that seems to be working really well.
Pretty happy with it. Like anything it needed some adjustments to get the table square but it other than than it has paid for itself. I have done about 5 days of tiling(a my speed) and the rental for such a saw is about $60/ day around here.
Haven't finish my job yet. Shower walls left to go, still practicing the miters. Don't see any reason this saw won't be up for finishing the job and going into storage in the barn until I forget how much time tiling takes and sign up to do it again!!!
Actually next project my involve cutting some bricks. That will probably be the real test of the saw.
I had a bad experience with the Chinese tools in the past. Had a 14" chop saw that burn out it's brushes. Couldn't find a replacement brush set. The thing that convinced me to give this one a try was someone on this web site who said HFT has access to the repair parts and stands behind(way behind maybe) these products.
Good luck
You gonna take some pics? Always lookin for ideas about tiling.
tyke
just another day in paradise
Haven't done the walls yet with the miter but here are some pics of the work in progress.
First is the big room (300 sqft). Got used to the vagaries of the HF wet saw on that project.
Then the Bathroom with walk in shower. You can see the 2 x 4 end wall on of the of pics.
Yes those are windows in the shower and a sink is going to go in the corner of the shower. I was sick and tried of getting yelled at by the wife for dripping on the floor when I went to the sink to shave. I decided my sink will be right in the shower where it should be!!
Sink and window stools and threshold will be made out of Corian.
Please download Irfanview and use it. You picture file sizes are way to big. Search here for infom on Irfan ... it's a great program.
Whenever you are asked if you can do a job, tell'em "Certainly, I can!" Then get busy and find out how to do it. T. Roosevelt