Hello all,
I have several low planter boxes and small retaining walls to construct and was wondering what the best way to cut the corners would be. I want the look of miters as opposed to “lapped” corners and want a decent finish on the cut, but don’t want to invest in a beam-type saw etc for this job. Renting something would be possible
Any advice?
Thanks
TN
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Replies
Good hand tools can do this in the time it might take to run the cords and power up motorized stuff.
You could spring for a good Japanese crosscut saw and a low angle plane, enjoy doing your work without all the noise, and probably get almost what you paid for the tools afterward, by eBay-ing them.
OTOH, you might enjoy the work so much you'll want to keep the tools.
A 12" blade in either a compound saw or a chop saw should cut 3 1/2" nominal stock. Both should be easy to rent, or buy one for $600. I have also seen a monster chop saw by Hitachi, specifically for cutting timbers, don't know how easy they are to rent.
The material is full dimension, rough 4X6. 12" compound may cross-cut but I doubt it will mitre cut this stock...I have used a 12" cross-cutting full 4x12 at 90deg
The length of cut on the 45 would be 8 1/2", a sliding compound saw typically cuts 12", it should work. Any doubts, go to the nearest box with your tape and check, some of them also rent, kill two birds with one trip.
Length of cut isn't an issue, depth of cut (or height), is. I am mitre'g a full 4X6 "flat" on the saw deck..will a 12" saw do this?
I'm pretty sure you won't have a problem. I've mitred 4x4's with a 12", and am sure I had room to spare, if your a full 4" , its a 1/2 difference, again, you could always check.
A 12" slider will cut that stock.
Democrats.The other white meat.
Wouldn't you be losing some strength in your retaining wall if you didn't lab the corners?
How do you plan to keep the miters from opening up due to the weight of the earth?
Soul,
Yes, normally I would lap and use "dead men" or ty-backs on a retainer but these are only 4 courses high and will be though-bolted on a concrete slab. I am going to screw/bolt the corners and will gusset the inside of the mitre, if necessary, to make sure the mitres don't open. Good point though
Since this will be on crete, be sure to allow for drainage somehow
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
townail,
A simple jig made out of ply wood and a common skil saw . Just double (cut top , then roll over bottom)
No need to buy or rent anything assuming you own a skil saw (or Makita, Dewalt, Black and Decker etc.)
I regularly get tickled by those who ask what is the best way to do something and then immediately say that their taste eliminates the best way.
What else is left to suggest?
Something other than the best way of course!
Mitred joints will look prettier perhaps. bUt ther reason that lapped here is more common is that it makes for a strobnger joint in a location where the soil and water contained behind the barricade will be exerting quite a large amt of pressure on it, depending on how high the wall is.
A sliding 12" mire saw should do the job if you can rent one. Keep the lumber clean - dirt will dull the blade and rocks will ruin it and possibly hurt you.
once you make your mitres, and stack the pieces, use a couple of lags rinning through the joint perpendicular to the cut which is diagonal to the stresses placed on the wall.
Welcome to the
Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime.
where ...
Excellence is its own reward!
Unless you can find PT stock that has been dried after treating - don't bother with mitres. And even then -your joints are very likely to shrink open in a short period of time. ACQ seems to do this worse than CCA - maybe because most of the ACQ is being sold with higher moister content than CCA was?
Piffin, thanks for the response...I think!
"regularly get tickled by those who ask what is the best way to do something and then immediately say that their taste eliminates the best way.What else is left to suggest? Something other than the best way of course!"
Not sure how, but I'm glad I "tickled" you. My original post was not asking the best method to construct a retaining wall or the merits of lapped corners. I have built many large retaining walls c/w engineering/inspection and fully understand the benefit of lapped corners, soil weight drainage etc. Not "my taste" here, just trying to match similar to existing detail done with 2X6 and not have the exposed end grain of lapped mitres....hence the most efficient, best system to neatly mitre multiple 4X6
I'm actually replacing 21 yr. old, vertical 2X6 framed planter (4 courses high) that are still standing but are starting to rot/deteriorate in a high traffic/visibility courtyard. I'm using 4X6 to give better strength and longevity(hopefully). The design with 4X6 is to make the new planter similar looking but better constructed than existing
My old DeWalt radial arm saw can cut 5 7/8" stock with a 12" blade. Some lumberyards keep a big RAS around. You might be able to buy your timbers with the ends already cut.
George Patterson, Patterson Handyman Service
Am I the only one who usually cuts these with two saws? You know, a circular saw and then that other thing that ought to be hanging on a nail there on the end of a horse...whaddayacallit...an eight point crosscut saw? ;-)
After the deep cut with the circular saw, it's easy to lay a handsaw against that long face and finish the cut perfectly. Just make the first couple of strokes at a slight angle into the face so that the handsaw starts true. If you don't have much practice with a handsaw, use the fingertips of your off hand to hold the saw blade lightly against the face.
LOL, you just made a bunch of old farts fall off their task chairs with that suggestion....;)
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
Talk about bein' an old fart...I had to google up "task chair"...just to find out that I was sitting on one of 'em. LOL.
Saw this one by the curb...looking perfect...so I took it home. Turned out the inner air height adjuster mechanism was cooked so I drilled and bolted the shaft at the height that works for me. Five minute repair. That was a couple...three years ago. So now I know what it's called too.
Edited 4/10/2007 4:11 pm ET by Hudson Valley Carpenter
A lot of my office furniture came from the dump and used top be at the town ofice or the school.
An executive office chair
A printer cart
A file cabinet
used to have a monitor
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
I was thinking much the same ...
and/or finish the cut with a sawzaw.
just watch the blade ... it'll finish the cut just fine.
or ... like U said ... the original cordless saw ...
Jeff Buck Construction
Artistry In Carpentry
Pittsburgh Pa
Am I the only one who usually cuts these with two saws?
If you own a 12" sliding compound, I'd say, yes. You are.
Democrats.The other white meat.
<<If you own a 12" sliding compound, I'd say, yes. You are.>>
I don't believe that was a prerequisite for addressing the question, was it?
Bet you even have one of those 12 point saws for finish work too.
Long time before power miter saws, we use to build large miter boxes out of three staight 2x6s. Lay out opposing 45s and a 90 on the top and make the kerfs with a 12 pt. saw. Cut miters, then clean and adjust with a low angle plane.
Power tools made a lot of guys "finish carpenters", that would never have graduated from the framing crews ;-)
Dave
<<Bet you even have one of those 12 point saws for finish work too.>>
Yes, I do, but nowadays it's a short one with a plastic handle, the kind that'll fit in a tool bucket. It's a good little saw but nothing like what you're talking about using with a miterbox. In those days, before chop saws, the ideal trimmers tools were a back saw and a miter knife. I still have a miter knife and might use it again if the power went out. Very nice tool.
Nah....just funnin' ya.
Democrats.The other white meat.
<<Nah....just funnin' ya.>>
You're pretty good at it, particularly for a kid. I didn't read your profile until a moment ago. Do your folks know that you're hangin' out here with a bunch of crazy old carpenters? The place reminds me of the movie, "Oh brother, where art thou?"
;-)
Mom and Dad think I use this site to do research for woodshop.
Shhhh.
Democrats.The other white meat.
<<Mom and Dad think I use this site to do research for woodshop.
Shhhh.>>
Well...at least you're havin' a few laughs while you're at it. But isn't this place a bit advanced for jr high woodshop?
As I recall, my jrhi projects involved making little goodies to hang on opposite sides of the kitchen window where you could easily see that they didn't really match as well as they were supposed to. LOL.
So, what are you working on these days?
Today I'm scrolling my initials in bubble letters using the bandsaw.
First time....yippie!
LOL
Actually made some nice stuff all things considered back then. Shame its not offered anymore at our local high school.
Democrats.The other white meat.
Sounds like fun. I'm glad to hear that you have the opportunity to try making new things with different tools regularly.
Female acquaintance of mine, a designer, recently got bit by a table saw which spit something back at her. Partially crippled one finger. She said that she might have avoided it if she'd followed her better judgement.
Take care.
Edited 4/11/2007 10:37 am ET by Hudson Valley Carpenter
Chainsaw