Trying to do two things yesterday, 1) restore power to an outlet in an improved basement and 2) tap into that existing outlet box and run a cable to a new outlet box on the other side of a doorway. Both outlet locations are in a partition wall, drop ceiling.
Restoring power to the existing outlet was a non-event – fed from a GFCI in an adjacent bathroom. Turned out the GFCI was bad – replaced GFCI, and all was good.
Cut hole for an old work box on the other side of the door and discovered the wall between the two outlet locations was insulated. Removed a couple of drop ceiling panels and discovered the wall top is in contact with a return duct – this was going from bad to worse….
Conventional “fishing” is out of the question. But I have a good chance if I had a little more space — like the full box opening.
The opening around the existing outlet measured right for an old work box, if I could get the existing box out of the wall – plastic nail on box – nail at top and bottom of box.
Slipped the MM E-cut blade into the tiny gap between box and DW – sliced throught the plastic nail brackets and slipped the box out of the wall. Pulled old mounting nails with diagonal cutters.
Shoved a rigid fiberglass fish up though the insulation until it hit the top plate, cut a short channel into the DW – spotted the fish – snagged it with a piece of bent wire – repeated on other side of doorway.
Pulled new cable between boxes – stapled to exposed joist – replaced drop ceiling panels – installed 2 old work boxes with outlets – done. No visible marks left on wall – no patching, painting. Customer loves it.
Jim
Replies
I am not saying that what I am going to suggest is a better idea, but a slightly different trick for a slightly different problem.
And you can never have too many tricks under you hat.
I have needed to replace nail on metal boxes.
Using a flat blade or a thin pry bar work between the box and stud. Just enough to be able to get in with a cutting blade.
Then use an open end hacksaw or if you are lazy like I am a recip with a metal cutting blade and cut the nail out. Then you can extract the box.
William the Geezer, the sequel to Billy the Kid - Shoe
Thanks Bill, I have done the same thing.
But, almost invariably, I end up dinging the wall at some point in the process either crushing the DW during prying or the saw slips off the nail during nail cutting. Just a klutz......
JimNever underestimate the value of a sharp pencil or good light.
> Pulled old mounting nails with diagonal cutters.
You could have just cut through them with the E blade, if it was a wood/metal one. I was pleasantly surprised with how well the MM cuts through nails.
I've had a Multimaster for years and only just recently discovered how kick butt it is for cutting in boxes in drywall or even plaster (with the grit blade for plaster...)The other day I finally picked up the cordless Bosch unit. It gets a lot of flack for not much run time, but who really cares about that? When I need a Multimaster - it's usually for a specific use and not for sanding an entire floor.Yea, I could see times when I would use the corded Fein model, but most times, I'll be happy to use the cordless one. Plus - I've got 4 batts and they charge in 20 minutes or so.New use - I had a towel bar that was wacked out in a client's bathroom. Needed new anchors, of course. But also - the little silver set screw was jammed into the threaded hole. When unscrewing it, one side of the slot tip broke off.With the cordless Bosch and a Dremel 3/4 wood/metal blade ($12 at Lowes), I was able to easily cut off flush the remaining slotted side and then plunge into this set screw to make a new slot for the screwdriver to bite on.Saved a trip to the hardware store and good as new. JT
If I understand correctly you really lucked out.Usually those setscrews are recessed into the bottom of the bracket and way too small to get any kind of cutting tool into the recess to redo the head..
William the Geezer, the sequel to Billy the Kid - Shoe
I know the MM E blades will cut nails and have done so at times.
After the plastic brackets were cut and the box removed, I had ready access to the nails with the diagonals --- Save the Blades!
Metal / Wood E cut blade = $66.99 / 3 = $ 22.33 each around here. I figure the less metal I cut, the longer the blade life. Have I ever mentioned I'm cheap?
JimNever underestimate the value of a sharp pencil or good light.
Charge the client the $22.00, in most cases, at least some, you will have saved them from your additional labor costs.
>>Charge the client the $22.00....<<
I do when I have to tear one up. They understand.
In this case, I could just cut the plastic brackets and yank the nails with diagonal pliers. Easier to get the box out without the brackets attached anyhow.
JimNever underestimate the value of a sharp pencil or good light.