Question:
What’s the proper way to re-level an existing older mobile home? It’s from about ’79. The “hacks” that were brought in ; tightened the Jacks here …and loosened there, thats about it . Doesn’t look like any foresight went into it…
Now I show up today, and it’s worse than it was!
Spongy floor here,way high over there. My customer can’t explain what and how they did anything …and now she wants me to try and remedy the situation. She’s nice …and I want to help her out, But what the ?????
Where to start? The sliding door is out , like an inch + @ 5′ !!!
Any ideas or tricks , or old stand by ideas are welcome ………
And mind you,…. it doesn’t have to be “perfect” , that would be a miracle for this place!
Edited 10/24/2006 12:04 am ET by Laumonster
Replies
Use a water level. Find the lowest section and bring the rest of the home down to that level. Start on all four corners then work toward the middle of the home. Do it in stages not all at once.
What are the 'jacks' resting on? Are there any wood cribs resting on the ground? What is happening to the skirting...has it been pushed up?
All of the skirting has been removed and the Jacks are on pressure treated or green treated (Jasco, etc.) 2 x 12's . The ground is way settled ,but in certain spots looks a bit ....well questionable.
So this trailer is supported by screw jacks? I've never seen 'em done that way. Also, 2x12s on the ground leaves much room for flexing, and long-term rot.
It would be good practice to set the PT wood on patio stones, say 24x24, or 24x36. Place several of those 2x12s side-by-side on each patio stone, then another crosswise to those. Set jack on that last 2x12. This will spread the load over a wider area, while preserving the wood. The patio may crack if not entirely supported by sand/gravel, but that is of little consequence.
Oftentimes, mobiles are not supported at close enough intervals. Look for the manufacturer's specs (prolly 10' o.c. for the supports) and go one better, say 8' o.c.
Local leveling expert and housemover finds out what the high spot is (and assuming that is the target height) raises to that. He starts at one end and works side to side toward the other end. He holds a spirit level against the frame as a reference. He also raises using a dual-jack unit run off a single hydraulic pump. Very slick for houseraising.
The rails can handle the strain of being twisted, they do not like being deformed by a point load such as a bottle jack ram. So place a heavy steel plate (like a railway tie plate) between the trailer rail and the ram.
screw jacks..
'79..
normal..
no anchors either..
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