Please help a service member find a solution to a huge basement moisture headache…
We had some mold growth remediated on a foundation wall of an 1885 rowhouse in an unfinished storage area. We think it had been there for a while, though we’ve only been in the house about a year. “Didn’t look like mold” according to the inspector – said it was soot or something; see before picture. (water under the bridge.) Anyway, we got it tested so we could repoint and paint the room and it turned out to be a benign mold. We had it professionally remediated in December. They did a HEPA-vac/wire brush/HEPA-vac with a negative air containment and painted with the fungicide Aftershock.
Around the same time as the remediation I had the outside regraded because I realized we had some water ponding at the foundation in one specific area (under a deck) and some mortar joints on the wall at the foundation were deteriorated (since repointed), plus there was a gutter failure last summer (since replaced), so I think that contributed to a huge intrusion of water into the wall (included picture also of water coming through the wall during a rainstorm). It is a very thick, solid brick foundation wall, only about half below grade (you can see where the slate layer is at the grade).
So, one month after remediation the mold growth started to return… and has gotten progressively darker. Tested and it’s acrimonium-type, which is toxic, so the area is sealed off. But the wall still needs to dry out we’re told, so we have two dehumidifiers going 24/7 to suck the water out of the wall. Moisture readings over time have improved, but only slightly. So we’re in a Catch-22 – need to get the mold remediated (they’ll do it for free), but also need to have the brick wall dry out so it doesn’t come back.
Have gotten three different opinions:
1. “The wall needs to dry out to see if the regrading, repointing, and gutter fix has been successful. Use the two dehumidifiers and maybe rent a desiccant dehumidifier to drop the humidity lower and suck it out faster.” Cost – $1k to rent the desiccant for four weeks (and the mold sticks around for longer – it’s sealed off, but there are kids in the house so makes us nervous).
2. “You need a full exterior excavation to seal the wall on the outside. The water migrating through that wall over the years has created a path for vapors, and it will keep on coming – if you drop the humidity lower you’re just going to draw more moisture from the outside soil.” Cost – $23k for about 45 linear feet, high in part because there are hardscapes, a small deck, and some brick stairs that need to come out.
3. “We can dig an interior trench for you and install a footing drain and a sump pump, then cover it and put a vapor barrier on the walls. It’s not as ideal for old brick as concrete block, but it will allow the water a path to go, and the vapor barrier on the wall will ensure any microbial growth is contained inside.” Cost – expect about $8-10k, though don’t have the estimate yet. Concerned this might contribute to deterioration of the wall if the moisture just keeps on coming through…
At this point I realize I’m probably going to have to throw $$ at the problem – just want to throw it in the right direction and solve the problem for good. Any opinions, recommendations, BTDT much appreciated…
As an aside, one thing I’m nervous about is the original mold is still there, being fed by the water coming through the wall, and is now just underneath a “supposedly” fungicidal coating. Maybe that coating needs to come off with Citristrip or something so the wall can breathe better? I attached a close-up showing the coating chipping in places, I assume because the water is pushing on it from behind.
Thank you!
Replies
Excavating around the exterior to repair the cracks is the only thing that’s going to fix this. An interior system on a brick foundation is usually just a dimple board on the wall that allows the water to go down to a floor drain to be moved out. You’ll still get mold...you just won’t see it. Brick foundations are particular susceptible to mortar joint cracks from soil expansion. The cost is high, but can certainly be done DIY if you have just some basic knowledge (and depending on what the yard looks like and whether you have the room for a mini excavator). Just make sure while you have it excavated that you do this correctly. Once you get it repointed on the outside, coat it with a liquid membrane, add dimpleboard and/or backfill with gravel. If you have existing foundation drain, make sure it’s clean or add a drain if you can.
Thanks for the reply. I think that might end up being the long term solution, but I'm thinking of trying two things before biting that bullet... (I've more or less ruled out #3 above, because it's a band-aid.). The foundation wall is at least a foot thick of solid brick (with lime mortar I've got to assume). I've been told that the wall needs to breathe -- that it shouldn't completely dry out because it's old and needs some moisture to "hold it together" -- but I'm not an expert and open to other opinions on that. I've been taking the readings with a concrete moisture meter and they've been going down. Servpro is telling me that they can get a commercial dehumidifier in there and drag it down significantly, so that I can remediate the mold. They think my regrading was successful... and that I can (1) make sure that wall doesn't take on excess moisture in the future by installing an under-deck drainage system (that basically redirects any surface water that would come into contact with the wall -- it would only be susceptible to moisture from the surrounding (mostly dry) soil, and (2) get the interior mortar joints repointed (they are deteriorated to various degrees) -- and that will cut down on the moisture that does make it through. I basically have no reason not to try this before going for the full excavation, right? Thanks again!
being thrifty (aka cheap) and also a believer in simpler is better, go for the drainage regrading and drying out the basement - - for what it's worth I never heard about keeping a foundation "moist" to keep it together so I tend to think getting it dry in needed to get rid of your mold situation -you should have a local mason take a look at your foundation and get his/her take on what you need to do to possibly repoint from the inside to help seal out any moisture, maybe use a sealer on the bricks as well
good luck
good luck