I may be starting a restoration for a client,see below. Most of the porch is being rebuilt. When the client saw how the side of the beams were 18″ wide and in two pieces, decided it would be best to order 20″x 12’x1″ slabs of cypress.
Cypress is a good choice for outside but the width in MHO is unneccessarry since there is a decorative molding, see photo,that is designed to cover the seam.
Anyway the point of this is to get your differing opinions about the installation of this board.
I feel that obviously the pieces should be back grooved and primed. But I’m also thinking the use of “Home Slicker” or something like it
http://www.benjaminobdyke.com/visitor/product/key/homeSlicker
would be a great advantage, or not, what do you think?
Just A Guy With A Hammer
Edited 1/7/2009 12:30 am by jagwah
Replies
bump
Just A Guy With A Hammer
Cypress moves more than most other woods, and a 20" wide slab will probably move almost a half-inch.
I think your client is unknowingly asking for a 20" wide slab with cracks and splits.
The link is a shrinkage/expansion calculator that might help.
http://www.woodbin.com/calcs/shrinkulator.htm
That's what I tried to explain. She knows what she's doing, she said. I said I was just offering my experience. I may not do this job.
She said she thought it dumb to have two boards 'cause water would get in where they meet. I pointed out that the trim had been up since 1913 and only the surface is bad and that due to poor painting practices.
I hoped this matrix when used might allow for air flow and reduce moisture issues knowing cypress and this wide a board.
I'm getting kinda tired of 30 something clients who know more than me because they can google.
Just A Guy With A Hammer
The cypress won't rot. At least not while you or I are still alive. In my town, I know a house that has cypress board and batten siding from when it was built in the 1930's.That cypress is knotty, and some of it has some splits from movement over the years.Not one rotted board on the whole house.And you're quite right about gen-X and gen-y folks that know everything there is to know about building sciences. And let's not forget that how stuff looks is infinitely more important than how is works, or how it lasts.If your client is good at Googling, maybe you can show her the Shrinkulator website. I'll bet that it will calculate about a half inch of movement in 20" of cypress. Then ask her to use google to find nails that will allow that much movement.Or, for that matter, paint that can handle than much movement without cracking and peeling.Or, like you say -- just walk.
Politics is the antithesis of problem solving.
You a'nt the only 1..
Don't it just fry yer nerds?
At least she keeps saying how lucky she is to have me on her project, but in the same breath contradics most of my ideas.
I'm willing to follow along and learn something, with pay of course! But who's gonna be the idiot she hired that screwed it up?
I hate it when the economy tanks, it's winter and no one else has called me. Bummer!
Just A Guy With A Hammer
sorry I just got around looking at your shrinkage...
Anyway, she's bought the material and its 12% kiln dried very clear and crack free. Your chart is about green to dry and the expected issues.
My Q was mostly how to maintain that stability once it's into the elements despite the initial priming and paint.
My thought again on this matrix is because of a FHB issue a few years back where they used similar around porch post build ups. Thinking that this air space would diminish any moisture/rot issues better than just a sheet of 15# felt.
I hear my old man yelling screw it use felt. By the time any rot begins the check will have cleared.
Just A Guy With A Hammer
>>"....she's bought the material and its 12% kiln dried very clear and crack free...."Well, for now at least.>>"...Your chart is about green to dry and the expected issues. ..."It also shows movement after initial drying, in the bottom half of the page.
Politics is the antithesis of problem solving.