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When you finish drywall that has been laid horizontally you end up with the factory depression at top and bottom — how do you attach molding so it is level to the majority of the wall???
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Prescriptive codes don't address the connection at less common angles, so base the connection off more typical ones using bolts, structural screws, blocking, and steel tension ties.
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Lou,
While you are taping and floating the seams, you can run some mud along the depression and spread it with a 6" taping knife. About half of the blade of the knife will run along the flat part of the drywall sheet, and the other half will spread out the mud, keeping it even with the plane of the drywall.
If you don't want to bend over to do this at floor level, then you can install some shim material (about 1/8" or so thick) along the indention/beveled edge. Drive your nails for the trim through the trim and shims.
For ceiling area, you have to use very wide crown molding to cover the beveled edges. The bottom edge of the crown will have to rest on a FLAT part of the drywall. (provided you did not float the beveled edges here)
OR... you could run wider base trim at the floor level and nail through the top part of the trim, and into the wall studs. Avoid nails at the lower section or they will force the trim IN towards the wall and will leave the trim cockeyed.
I personally just float the beveled edges.
James DuHamel
*thanks - I was hoping for a new trick, but I guess the old ways work best.