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I have to put up a lot of towel bars, tp holders, soap dishes, mirrors, and grab bars, and usually in places where there’s nothing solid to attach them.
I can’t find a moly that works consistently, and usually, by the time I figure out one won’t work, it’s too late and the anchor won’t come back out and the sheetrock gets messed up.
The ones that come with the hardware never work, except for some from Baldwin, and I’ve never seen them for sale separately.
And what’s with the crummy mounting systems(I use that term loosely, cause that’s how most of ’em work) for most bath hardware? What’s the deal there? Any help, please!
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The only one's I get to work consistently are the toggle anchors. I turned to them reluctantly because they require such a large hole, but you end up with that big hole anyway by the time the other anchors have failed.
Rich Beckman
*McFeely's (www.mcfeelys.com) has a bizarre and extensive selection of hollow and solid wall anchors. I have used a number of their "Alligator" solid wall anchors in our thickset bath -- the drilled hole can be the same size as the fastener, with very good pullout resistance. Haven't tried their toggle options. Check it out.Most bath stuff is a little gilt over junk. I think it's because the manufacturers figure the homeowners will decide to pick these out themselves and don't know any better. Baldwin is nice.
*Bucksnort have you tried zippits(spelling). They come in differant sizes and work pretty good. We use stud finders to try and find that missing blocking. My favorite is towel bars set at 48" off finish floor. Framer sets top edge of blocking at 48" on subfloor. As far as the hardware goes it's about as cheap as it gets. Can't stand those cheap plastic toliet paper holders. The ones that come with the little-bitty loose set screws that you need a jewelers tool set to install.(And don't drop one...Damm framers spacing out those ply panels again)b How wide is a roll of toliet paper
*Gee, Bill, you still up too?
*For the light weight stuff, have you tried those spin in plastic spiral deals? Put in carefully, they are mighty useful.
*For hollow walls, try "Togglers". The come in different sizes depending on the wall thickness - made by Mechanical Plastics in Pleasantville, NY. They only need a 5/16" hole - not nearly the size required for the wings on toggle bolts. After they're inserted, you use a plastic key to expand the "wings" behind the wall material. They can be used as a standard anchor in solid walls as well.
*lonecat,those spin in plastic inserts are my favorite....use em all the time...and always have some in stock.Never really liked the wing things....glad I can now avoid them.Jack : )
*Yes, McFeely's sells "togglers" and those screw-in things, whatever they're called. I wondered whether the latter were good, thank you for the recommendation.
*I love those plastic zip-its when they work, but when they don't, it can be a sheetrock repairing mess. It also seems that the older sheetrock is, the harder it gets (not one of our problems, huh), and the plastic tips snap before full penetration (my wife is pointing at me and nodding some nonsense).I've had the nuts pull out of some wing toggles, more down time. (I should stop right now, shouldn't I)I've had good luck with a metal type zip-it about 2" long with a flipping wing thing that acts like a toggle when it activates, but sometimes it doesn't.The best one I've found is around 2" with a sharp, bullet like point and 4 knuckle like things that fold back against the sheetrock as the screw tightens. Of course, I can't find them anymore.I like those plastic wings with the push in key, but can't find them either. I'm headin' to McFeely's right now. Thanks, BB
*Must have used a thousand molys over the years. I am referring to the metal cylinders that expand when the screw is turned before the load is placed on the moly. I have always used a masonary drill of the size recommended by the manufacture in a variable speed drill. The only trouble I have had is my Milwaukee drill has too much torque and if you are not careful, you strip the threads when you over expand the moly. They work great, hold well, and when it comes time to remove them, use a high speed 3/8 " bit and drill off the metal flange first and push the remainder of the moly thru the wall and patch with setting type drywall mud. Lately for speed, I have switched to those large plastic screw in anchors, but I still drill a lead hole with a 3/16" or thereabouts drill as a lead hole; otherwise, for me, the anchor tends to wander from where I want it to go.Dennis
*If you don't have one, get a W. W. Grainger catalogue. They have a web page. In major metropolitan areas there is always a branch, otherwise, they are currently shipping free when you order from the web. They are a large national company selling fasteners, plumbing supplies, etc. They are not expensive, but you can buy cheaper locally if you look. Convineint though.Dennis
*Dennis, I got WWGraingers catalogue for plumbing and motors. Never thought of them for molys. Doh!Try a brad point bit run backwards 'til it goes through the outer layer of sheet rock paper. Stop and pull the paper circle off the bit, then go back at it. Might as well use a winged toggle bolt then, though. BB