what is the best way to build monolithic form boards to include brick footing.
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mr bone
are you a two finger typist ?
we need more info. what is a brick footing ? do you mean a brick shelf ? are you forming a patio ? shed ? swimming pool ? doll house ?
are you hand digging the trench ?
carpenter in transition
No- one finger typist! Yes, hand digging footing for small room addition. Need to build forms for monolithic slab. Would like to leave enough footing for brick veneer to sit on. If that is called a brick shelf, then I've learned a new term.
I am one finger typist, but I understand your question. Use 2 in foam and nail it to your forms where you want the ledge.
Thanks for the info! Do I drive bracing stakes next to foam? Do you know of a good inexpensive leveling tool for forms?
build a plywood form, frame with 2x4, either nail a foam board or cut down 2x on the face of the board. stake the form with 2x. OR dig a footing pour the concrete and float a 2x in for the brick ledge.
Thanks Brownbagg, Do you know of an inexspensive leveling tool for forms?
If it's just a small addition, a 4' level will work well enough. I've seen carport slabs and garage slabs done with that, and they are very very close to being perfect. Or you could buy a piece of IV tubing and put food-colored water in it to make a water level.
I personally would use either of the above before using a transit on a small job--my transit takes too long to set up.Jason Pharez Construction
Framing & Exterior Remodeling
"my transit takes too long to set up"
Builders level or transit? How long does it take to set up a builders level? Mine takes less than 2 minutes, and it's dead on accurate.
nevertheless, he doesn't have one and it's not worth renting one for him. I second your recommendations. You can get very close with a 4' level and a long straight edge. or by establishing a few level tick marks and then pulling a chalk line thru to make a longer level line, say for a level strip. and using water to level has been has been around for thousands of years, and can be very precise.
Edited 6/4/2005 2:34 pm ET by nails2
I've got a DW builder's level (the manually-leveled one) and sometimes I can get it quick, sometimes it takes 15 minutes. But it's VERY accurate so long as the helpers don't move it!
Heck, I may not even be setting it up right...I just read the instructions. Feel free to give some tips!Jason Pharez Construction
Framing & Exterior Remodeling
hmmm...well I have a nikon that has the manual thumb screws as well. But it sure has never taken 15 min to set. I can see you avoiding the hassle of setting it up for small jobs, I would too. One thing that helps me to set mine up very fast is I have the dome shaped tripod as opposed to the flat topped one that is commomly used with the laser levels. The advanatage to the dome is that you can slide the level around on the dome to almost perfect, (sometimes exactly perfect) then make any slight adjustments with the thumb screws.
When I bought the tripod to go with the level, I considered getting the flat top one in case I ever got a laser then I could use it for both.(any laser I've seen requires a flat top ...although there may very well be some that work on domes) But in the end I love the speed of setting up with the dome. Heck if I buy a laser I'll get a seperate tripod to go with it. Then if I need one on 2 seperate sites I'm set.
also remember that even if your buble is a hair out, the level will compensate within the unit. at least that is what the survey equipment company told me. Nevertheless, I'm fussy and always get the bubble dead on.
Edited 6/5/2005 11:39 am ET by nails2
clear tubing filled with water
Thanks to everyone for reminding me about the simple things in life. Clear tubing is a little cheaper than a $1000 laser. One more question, is it wise to cover a fresh finished slab with say, felt paper?
felt paper might stain the concrete, just cover with plastic a couple days and then do what you want. If afraid of damage to slab, use plywood or builders paper to cover.