First off, I didn’t want to hijack Ryan’s thread.
Have not yet used D-Mix but that may not be far off.
What is the coverage given the formula of 1/2 bucked JC, 1 gal PVA and 1 cup POP?
How thick will this go on?
What prep for a previously painted wall that has repairs?
Any thoughts about colloring or tinting? Maybe with liquid concrete colors?
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Replies
Could you post the copy of the DMix summary posts here for OldGuy and so that it be made available for future copy/pastes?
Thanks
compliments of Pierre..
D-Mix recipes, techniques and advice as posted on Breaktime
And the best mix of all for small holes and large openings, as well as veneer plaster application and one coat over fiberglass finish..
The D-plaster mix.
Regular joint compound mix with latex primer and plaster of Paris. What you have here is all in one mix. We use it for many years to prep before taping and to restore entire buildings the EZ way.
One guy was applying the mix with a roller and one guy behind was making the walls smooth or texture by just going over with trowel. When the plaster was getting hard to work we just spray water and making the mix soft again,
Similar to veneer plaster but more forgiving and EZier to apply by anyone with a roller. This thing work like magic plaster,
OK guys. I' just told you the secret to make EZ money. 2-3 guys can restore the walls in a small house in 1-2 days. No demo $200-$300 materials and you have a job that is worth $6000.00
But you have to put your rrass down and learn the mix. YPF D.
Try the D- plaster mix few times and save your self time and money.
Two weeks ago I have to help some friends. Add a level and total rebuild.
100 holes(electricians-plumbers and HVAC) and they just move in with a newborn baby. Imagine the mess and the dust sanding all the repairs.
One day with the D-mix ,plaster of Paris and a sponge. No dust ,no mess and no sign of any repairs. The old days my electrician-plumper and HVAC guys loved to work for me. It was the only time that they can actually feel free to do what they really know best.
You don't even have to use the long trowels with the D-mix. You can use one 6'' and one 9'' taping knife to. The good thing is that you can work with the same materials that you already apply on the wall for a longer time.
with joint compound you can't re-work or re-coat the same materials.
With durabond you need a top coat.
With Veneer plaster you have to be an expert and is a messy job.
With the D-mix you combine all the benefits of all above methods.
Easy to apply and recoat and rework the same materials the same day or hour and when you done you don't have to sand. You can say the easier to apply veneer plaster? YCF.
A. The best joint compound to use with the D-mix is the premix stuff. (5 gallon buckets) the green or the plus 3.(the plus-3 is even better)
B. Cheap PVA latex primer. (Regular wall primer.)
C. Plaster of Paris. (Regular powder.)
Like I said, all new to me, but willing to learn if you have the patience.
Me? Is you who need to have the patience.
Here’s another mix: 75% of a small cup of coffee. On 2-1/2 gallons of JC. And enough primer (half to three-quarter gallon) to make the mix workable. (roll-able)
OR
Start with a small mix. (10) part joint compound-(2-3) primer and (1) plaster of paris.
First you mix good the joint compound with the primer and when you ready you mix the plaster of paris with the rest.
You can make small repairs or you can do an entire wall 8x20 with one mix.
After few buckets - bags and can's and one day in your basement you will be able to make the right mix for the right job.
I never use the (No Coat Ultra Flex Lite) stuff. You can try it and let me know.
But I will not use the D-mix for that.The primer may make the compound to lose the adhesion. I always use fiberglass tape. just in case.
And you can roll the reg.compound to. Mix with water. and use heavy lamb skin roller. I use 3/4" thick and cut it with a hack saw to 3-3" small rollers.
The 3" roller is good for taping the corners. Is just Easier to apply the glue (compound) to the walls in order to stick the paper. When you do regular taping and not the D-mix.
For the D-mix I always use fiberglass tape. Because I can tape and finish the same day. The thickness of the D-mix is about 1/32-1/16. But you can go up to 1/2"-3/4 if needed.
You apply it with 9'' roller with heavy nap. 3/4 lamp skin is the best. Same way you apply texture paint. (Sand finish) One dip should give you a 4'x4' area. Some times you use the stucco rollers to.
Whatever works for you. The trick is not to apply all the materials in one spot. you have to spread the mix out to the largest possible area. Then is Easier to go over and make it smooth with a clean tape knife.
But like anything else you need to have patience and learn the technique. But the D-mix is very forgiving and you don't need to be a plasterer. good luck.
Just one question: Plaster. any type of plaster does not adhere to drywall. It does adhere to blueboard but not to regular drywall. Mixing one part of plaster and the primer and joint compound..so I gather that the plaster does not affect the bonding of this mix to the drywall..that right?
With 10 part of joint compound 1-2 primer and only 1 part of plaster paris I don't see any problemos.
I' start using the D-mix on old houses first to resurface the old plaster and over the paint.. I use it to tape new drywall for the one day jobs. No problem so far.
The only problem is that you have to use what you mix for the day. YpF Dino
Plaster when mixed with jc will stick just fine. If you're doing a complete skimcoat and you don't have blue board just turn the sheetrock around and let the backside show to skim on. It has more 'tooth' than the finished side and will take skim coat just fine, even with plain veneer plaster like the diamond mix. Always tape your seams as usual with fiberglass. I first learned to do flat work from mixing up lime putty with the gauging plaster, which is the same as plaster of paris, it's just a bit coarser. A lime mix 3:1 is the smoothest finish. Just for the heck of it one time I kept toweling over the wet set up finish with water and I got it so I could actually see my reflection in it, like finished granite or marble.
Other YCF comments:
Don.
Next time make it roll-able. More PVA?
And instead applying the mix in one spot and try to cover a larger area, Apply the mix in 4-6 spots within 16 sq. feet and roll the mix after your roller is almost empty.
And don't wait for the stuff to dry. make it as smooth as you can right the way (5 minutes) and you can make it finish smooth later.
Unlike the ready mix jc and setting compound's the D-Mix is workable with out re-coating. Yes timing is a good thing but the mix is very forgiving.
The idea is that the more you use it, the better you and the D-Mix gets.
Never the less. is sandable too.
Other comments:
Are you smoothing with a taping knife, a smoothing trowel, or that new fangled wall squeegee?
Use whatever you can use. I use both. And I like to try the new magic trowel.
If using a smoothing trowel, would wetting it a bit (like plasterers do) help?
Yes.
and finally, it goes like this, right?
- mix PVA and JC, when ready mix in PoP, roll, wait, smooth
Yes,Yes,Yes
Can you give me some ROUGH ideas of the "wait" part (1 min, 10 min, 2 hours?) I imagine that you "wait until it is workable", but what is "workable"? Doesn't stick to the trowel, but still smoothes out?
What is workable?
Ask Don. He can tell you what not to do. Workable is that you can use your roller to apply it and is not to soft or to hard to make it smooth. It will tell you how long you have to wait. But. Make it as smooth as you can right the way and come back to finish it later. 5-10-15 minutes? Is all up to the whether, the previews surface and your skill.
Did I also read on here that you have "rolled it, waited, rolled it again" and not toweled it?
Not from me. But you can do-it if the mix gets hard on you to eliminate the sanding.
Will be trying D-mix in two weeks.
Good luck. And out.
From Don:
56927.1
All you D-Mix nuts out there: Finally boned up the guts to do one of the side walls in my stairwell. Whomped up about 60% of a 5 gal bucket of JC; half gal of PVA & a FULL DD cup of PoP. Worked like a charm. Getting better w/ the rubber squeegee type thingy. Reducing the amount of sanding needed. Can see nearly zero sanding within my grasp.
I'll reiterate - never learn a new process on a stairwell. At least the stairwell is 54 inches wide.
Don
From YCF Dino:
This is where the DMix sings You can have a very authentic and beautiful look.
And is much Easier than the smooth D Mix. Just roll and skip trowel in few minutes.
Here we go. 2-1/2 gallons of JC. (half bucket.)
one full DD cup of plaster of Paris. (any size here)
and enough latex primer in order to make it rollable.(1/2 gallon??)
same as sand paint .
Blue. Stay out of this. Is very EZ. And the look is the most authentic and genuine old texture plaster that is just breathtaking.
The trick here is not to overwork the roller as you want the D Mix to stay rough before you do the skip trowel. (very light skip trowel) VERY-VERY light.
Don. Stay out of this too.
Have fun guys. YCF Dino
Hey, I thought it's only 1/2 a DD cup of plaster of Paris.
For the beginners and the smooth D Mix. . Just to play it safe.
For the stucco D Mix you will need one cup. It goes very fast. Dino
From Dino:
Your D Mix can last for a week? My D-Mix only last for 2 days.
I use more plaster of paris.
Is all about how much POP (plaster of Paris) and how much primer you're using.
One thing that I can say is that you have to mix according to your needs and to your plastering capabilities.
Play it safe. And as you learn the system use more and more plaster of paris.
What I've learned in my meager use of it is that it's not really rocket science and depending on one's experience and particular need for the given scenario the blend of three components can be altered in different ratios to fit the bill.
More plaster of paris for lessened work time, more primer for extended or nonrough surfaces etc.
I myself have not used the D-mix...but from past inquiries...here is the recipe I found:
D-MIX
3 gallons joint compound
1 gal PVA primer
1 cup Plaster of Paris ( or substitute guage plaster which is cheaper to buy in bulk)
Mix the 3 ingredients together and put on wall using a 3/4 inch nap roller. After rolled out and startinmg to set up a little, flatten out using a 14 inch wide drywall knife.
Hope this helps.
Then we went to town with the D-mix.
Mixed up about 2/3 of a 5 gallon pail at a time with a similar ratio that "Davo" used. My wife loaded the 10" lambswool roller with as much mud as it could handle (and that she could lift - the roller gets very heavy) and rolled like crazy on the walls (and ceilings). I followed with a 12" trowel - my 12" knife was too hard to hold with one hand and my pointer finger was starting to feel the pressure - and smoothed it down just like a plasterer would. Always keep a spray bottle going - mist only - on your knife and over the wall as the mix stiffens very quickly on the wall. The misting makes for a nice "slurry" that smoothes to a glaze the equals the look and feel of plaster.
Yes, it takes time to get the feel of it, but don't panic. If you find the load on the wall has gotten away on you simply smooth it down with your trowel and reapply fresh D-Mix. It'll smooth out beautifully. Spraying the stuff (like a knock-down finish) would just use too much material and would take forever to clean up. This way when you need a break just drop the entire roller and handle into a 5-gallon bucket of water, wipe the extra material down into the pail, cover the D-Mix with about an inch of water (you just pour it off when you re-start). When you want to pickup where you left off pull the roller out of the water, pass it over a hunk of old drywall (clean) that you've got laying around, reload the roller with D-Mix and you're off to the races again.
Your walls look great, there is little sanding required (just knock down the ridges with a 3" blade), sand lightly (it doesn't billow like regular drywall - most of the dust falls quickly straight to the floor) and you're ready to prime. Try it in a closet or on a piece of drywall just to get the feel, but you'll be pleasantly surprised.
OK, here goes... (and considering how much you're paying for this advice...)
Just recently I ran out of P.O.P. and decided to try another setting compound. I used sandable 45 and it worked great. Even stayed workable after sitting overnight - capped with about an inch of water.
Working time? Once it's on the wall it's going to dry fast. As I said before, carry your spray bottle with you and mist the wall and your trowel or wide drywall knife. You can get a nice slurry that fills little voids very nicely.
Could you go without P.O.P. or any other setting compound? Sure, but the result might be "grainier" than you'd like. It seems that the combination of regular mud, P.O.P. and PVA latex paint (your econo Glidden brand available at Home Depot) makes for a plaster-like finish. The ridges left behind by your trowel or taping knife can be knocked down by a light scraping or sanding.
Trowel vs. taping knife? Just a matter of preference, but sometimes your hand tires when holding a 10" wide taping knife, so the bigger handle on a trowel gives you a break. I don't know about the "squeegee" but I want to leave as much on the wall as possible so that's why I used the taping knife.
Lastly, mixing ratio... that's the fly in the ointment, so to speak. If someone could say definitively what the ideal mixture would be I'd be the first to write it down and keep it. However, it seems to vary for some reason. I have found that about 1/3 of 5 gallon bucket of regular mud thinned with about an inch of paint makes for a really nice slurry. Then add your P.O.P. or other setting compound (slowly) while mixing to get the consistency that you like. It usually works out to about 2 cups (8 oz.) of setting compound, or so.
All the best. You'll be happy with the results.
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming
WOW!!! What a Ride!
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
I wonder how many BTers have had a printed copy of old DMix posts.
I do but Pierre's is a much more complete summary presentation.
A hat tip to Pierre for that.
Thanks for that collection.I have a lot of rooms to do eventually and I'm thinking this is the way to go.-Paul
I have not done this on my own walls yet...
but a doctor friend down the street converted an old warehouse into 6 apts... really really really bad drywall job.... used first timers who had never dry walled before.... all 8ft board... didn't stager a single seam.... ect...
so i put him on the D-mix and stopped by for the first run.... 1st they used mis tinted latex pain in the mix... mostly tans and mesh tape on the joints with very little if any mud on the joints...
since nothing was square and nothing in the place was smooth... it worked out really well... they sucked at finishing it... and got the exact look they wanted..... the one area i stopped in on I smoothed out just so i'd know for myself... if you have ever finished anything... plaster, concrete, even bondo... you'll be ok.... I'm not sure they came back and painted anything...
p
Not too worried about the process. Just happened to come up with some questions I hadn't seen covered before.I plan on starting on a small out of view room to get the feel.
10 oz?!!!!Heres Dino's quote "Here we go. 2-1/2 gallons of JC. (half bucket.) one full DD cup of plaster of Paris. (any size here) and enough latex primer in order to make it rollable.(1/2 gallon??)"I'm seeing "ANY SIZE HERE"!!!!Thanks for that recap on that thread. I always enjoy a good laugh. FKA Blue (eyeddevil)
Jim, Does this stuff not work as claimed? Formula can always be adjusted. I am new to the concept of D-Mix
They can't get your Goat if you don't tell them where it is hidden.
I can't adjust the formula till I know what the formula is. I've been waiting for several years now and maybe a hundred or two threads on this. FKA Blue (eyeddevil)
Jim, Not chain jerking here. I am very curious if mixing the primer, mud and POP actually produces a material that will be easy to work and finish smooth . Have a wall that had wood paneling glued to it, major pain unless I can use something like this. May just rehang the wall instead.
They can't get your Goat if you don't tell them where it is hidden.
I'm not jerking your chain either. I've read dozens of these threads about D Mix and I've never gotten a straight answer about D Mix. There's been a few close calls but every time someone throws in some variables that confuses me again. Someone that has actually done this will chirp in if you keep this at the top, or maybe start a new thread. I'm always game for a new round... FKA Blue (eyeddevil)
Just to keep this going, because these dmix threads interest me also, I did something similar in my house.
A painter friend of mine makes a good chunk of his work doing this in mcmansions that are spray textured and the owners want something more "exotic". I just wanted anything other than plain smoothwall which is what I deal with everyday at work.<G>
We mixed joint compound, cheap varithane and paint in buckets and sprayed it on the walls with a commercial spray rig with two guys troweling behind. repeat process on second day and then on third day spray a glaze and trowel that also.
This is meant to simulate a venitian plaster look, and I have also heard it called "perfect, imperfect". My house was done over new drywall that had been one coated at seams and butts and two coated on outside corners. No additional mud at inside corners except taping, best of all no sanding at any stage and no painting.
I is a different look, sometimes the wall can seem dirty but in a good way. I think they call it patina.<G> Here are a few pics I took today.
I also would like to see photos of dmix jobs. Mike
Trust in God, but row away from the rocks.
ruff-
What is the name of the paint color you used in those pics?
Well ,we ageed on a neutral beige color and he had left over paint, a brown I believe, then we mixed and did a sample. It really blends with the mud, so I guess it is a custom color, somewhere between wheat and monkeysh## brown. <G> Mike
Trust in God, but row away from the rocks.
Well, I tried D-Mix for the first time last week. About three gallons of all purpose mud, 1/2 gallon PVA paint and a cup or so of POP.I was skim coating a wall that had a sand texture and had needed some repairs due to water damage.I had difficulty getting enough of the mix on the wall to really cover the texture, but it got better as I went along.My troweling skills are not all that great and I gave up getting it smooth. I went back to touch it up the next day with straight compound.Still, it was a lot less work than if I tried to skim coat with straight compound and a knife/trowel.I can see trying it again.
Rich Beckman
I also gave the mix a shot. Walls were drywall, one wall had been hung probably 25 years ago and fire taped only, and badly at that. The other walls and ceiling were new . Someone else's fast taping job done prior to my starting. Pretty good results actually. First coat rolled on , then troweled as smooth as time allowed. I used a 3" x 12" concrete trowel. Went back over it the next day but used a pan and 12 drywall trowel to apply then switched to the concrete trowel for the finish. Quick sand, quick wet sponge to blend any small imperfection. Produced a really smooth wall surface .
Painted with semi-gloss (laundry room ) have one bad spot in the whole room. I was able to get a better/smoother surface than I could have done with my 3 coat drywall technique's. Zero tape shadows . My biggest problem was getting the POP to have clumps in it, may try mixing with the PVA separately then adding to the mud. It reminds me of a plaster wall in that it isn't flat , but is smooth.
I will be trying on a ceiling next, just scraped the popcorn off today .
They can't get your Goat if you don't tell them where it is hidden.
>>It reminds me of a plaster wall in that it isn't flat , but is smooth.This is one of the chief charms of plaster, compared to the factory made flatness of regular drywall.
I also used it for a room that had a sanded texture.And I found that a concrete trowel work better than the DW ones.But the sand texture was course and irregular. So I had problems bumping on a sand grain.It was later decided to texture the whole house. So I did not clean it up.But if I had to do that one again I would still use D-mix. But do it in 2 passes, but cause of the bumps and trails that I got from the sand.The first one just to "fill in" and the 2nd to give a smooth coat.But it look fairly good with the one coat and just scraping some ridges between trowel pass gave a fairly good finish..
.
A-holes. Hey every group has to have one. And I have been elected to be the one. I should make that my tagline.
Damit Jim, I come on these (dmix)threads everytime I see some activity just trying to get a glimps of the recipe - so far no luck!
Doug
Doug, I am just trying to understand if a mix like this (whatever the proportions ) actually works easier then top coating, sanding re coating etc.
Need someone who has actually tried it to post a yea or nay.
They can't get your Goat if you don't tell them where it is hidden.
I have used the original recipe that was cut n pasted above. All of the plaster in my 140 yr old house is in terrible shape. The stuff worked great, it was a huge time saver. I use an oil base primer, fill any larger gouges holes, etc and roll self stick fiberglass mesh on the wall. Hit it twice, maybe three x depending on condition of wall. Minimal sanding, sometimes none.
Ted
Ted ,
Thank you (and to all the others who have replied with their experiences). I am trying it out now. Mixed according to the recipe as given above as well. My try may not be a fair one though. Bathroom in an older house that has had at least 3 different remodels done to it and 3 different textures applied. (all 3 "orange peel" , but different sized droplets/ light to heavy application. ) First lesson was that I should have sanded the texture off a bit before starting. Does seem to work very easily and sets up quick . Using a grout float for some of the smoothing. Mostly just playing with the stuff to see what I think of it.
They can't get your Goat if you don't tell them where it is hidden.
I've played with D-mix, but I've never actually used it on a job. The basic idea is that since joint compound cures by drying and POP cures by setting, in the right ratio, this magical concoction will cure form within and without at the same rate, thus making it workable longer than either mix on its own.
There can't possibly be a specific recipe for this mix because cure/dry times are so dependant on temperature and humidity. Each job has to individually evaluated and that requires experience.
The paint (or primer, it doesn't really seem to matter) somehow makes the entire mixture more "creamy" and easily worked than water alone. There are probably additives that would work similarly, but I haven't tried them.
I haven't invested the time to become experienced for a few reasons:
1) I rarely skim coat large areas and when I do, I find that 90 minute setting compound works really well. It works even better with paint/primer added, but then I have to be more careful about getting it where I don't want it.
2) I don't have or use spray equipment and I haven't yet done a textured finish (other than small repairs to match existing)
3) I have added POP to setting compound to make a harder, more plaster-like finish, but if you add too much, the working time is seriously reduced.
4) And finally, while this mix may have it's place in the right set of circumstances, it doesn't have enough advantages over my current techniques to justify the learning curve. I should note that Dino (the guy who initially proposed this mix) does not feel that a learning curve is required. I can see how that could be true for others who may tape/spackle/texture-finish more than me.
P.S. Yes, I know this horse is dead, but I figured a few more good whacks couldn't hurt.
Ya, I always viewed the whole thing as just the idea that those three components can be mixed together and produce a workable mix,
not like it was rocket science with an exact mix which I'm thinking most people want,
an exact formula when really there isn't one but just a rough approximation.
Believe the original intention was large covering area with a roller in a short amount of time.
Don
1) I rarely skim coat large areas and when I do, I find that 90 minute setting compound works really well. It works even better with paint/primer added, but then I have to be more careful about getting it where I don't want it.
I have some walls that have a texture to them and I hate it(sort of a course lumpy sand texture), I want to change to a smooth wall. These walls have paint on them. Can I skim coat them with the 90 minute quick compound with a paint additive in it and get good results(provided I'm capable of good results).
Is there any adhesive problem with the compound and painted walls? Paint is in really good shape.
Back when I'd do some sprayed ceilings for repair or remodel work I'd mix paint with the popcorn spray thinking I was cleaver as hell and not have to paint when done! Well you don't have to paint but you better be damn sure your adjacent area is covered well! but it worked.
Thanks
Doug
Edited 11/27/2007 6:53 am ET by DougU
I think you'll like working with the 90 minute setting compound (I use Sheetrock brand Easy Sand). Keep in mind that 90 minutes is an estimate and it varies with temperature and humidity. They make longer setting compounds, but I haven't seen them for sale around here.
I've never had an adhesion problem with or without the paint additive even on semi-gloss finishes, but to be safe, I would hit the walls with a quick coat of latex primer before skim-coating.
There's a tool called the Magic Trowel and I have one: http://www.texmaster.com/magictrowel.html that may help for skim-coating large areas, but again, I have limited experience with it. It's interesting to note that the instructions for the Magic Trowel say to "prime (sic) the surface with semi gloss paint...". I'm not sure I agree even though I've never had an adhesion issue.
D mix reminds me of the loch ness monster. FKA Blue (eyeddevil)
I did mix up a batch and used. I thought the mix was just a bit thin and didn't build on the wall as heavy as I had expected so probably next time I'll add just a little less primer. (I used the recipe posted from earlier in this thread.)I covered the mix in the bucket with a piece of plastic and the material remained usable for several days.I'm not skilled in any way when comes to troweling, but the mix came out decent enough for the area I applied to.
Here is a cut and paste from another message boar. Found it by using google.ound it in the archives...I don't have the link directly, because I copied the directions. But if you search for over 6 months and userid djmiller in the interiors forum, you will find a thread that has plaster walls in the topic.Anyway, here is the 'recipe':don't know if this will help or not, but Greg wants to try something out for plastering that is so much easier and cheaper than the old way of plastering. I think it is put on just about any surface...but you mix up some drywall compound, the bucket with green top, 1 gallon cheap PVA primer, and some plaster of paris. Get 1/2 of the 5 gallon bucket of compound. Mix in enough primer to make it rollable (thick soup) and add 1 qt of plaster of paris. Mix primer very good before adding the plaster of paris. Use a 100% lambskin roller and apply in 4'x4' sections. After you finsh the 2nd section, go rough smooth the first section. Then when you finish the whole wall, do the final finish with clean knives. If it sets up too fast, add some water squirt bottle or add more mix. Maybe this can be useful to some of us here? We all seem to have plaster issues! --------------------
MA, Historic Preservation, BS in Architecture
Less is More!
Excellent find AJS! The only problem is that I'm too dense to decipher that! I don't have any clue as to what the author is saying there. FKA Blue (eyeddevil)
Jim, Here is Dino's original post from 6-18-05. Al Smith #18
06-18-2005, 11:00 PM
Dino Makropoulos
Member
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: EDISON N.J
Posts: 3,330
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ken FitzgeraldPer.....I used your idea......I was able to regenerate the bucket of joint compound......so I'm just taking a break......for the most part I'm just "mud"deling along .......I just hate mudding drywall!!
Ken.
Try this now. (The D-Mix)
2-1/2 gallons of joint compound.
1/2 to 1 gallon of latex PVA primer.
And one quart of plaster of Paris.Mix the jc with the primer first. Add the pop at the end.
Your mix should be like heavy paint. and rollable.Now you can apply the D-Mix with 3/4" lambskin roller and the rest is EZ.
Wet your roller with water for 5 minutes before using.
You can cover an area 4'x4' on with each roller dip.
Now you can make your finish as smooth as you like with taping knifes and if the mix gets hard you can apply more mix or spray water to make it soft again. This mix don't create skin and allows you to rework the same materials until you're done.
The results of this method should give you a veneer plaster look finish ...second to none.
And with no sanding at the end.
__________________
YCF Dino
Well, quite being intentionally hard headed then, and try a little. It's not rocket science.As a matter of fact, you can use dmix like regular joint compound for a material that dries super fast and super smooth, and is easier to work than straight up jc. Again, to refresh your memory:2.5 gallons jc
half-one gallon primer (depending on if you want to roll it)
12 ounces (by volume) plaster of parisMix well, put on wall with trowel or roller, and back trowel. It works totally differently than joint compound...much easier for an amateur.
The only experience with this so far is reflected in the post someone reposted to this thread......
BUT... I'd passed the info onto the doctor to fix his really screwed up drywall job... I didn't have the exact ratios...
this is what i believ he did... 1 box JC 1.5-2 gal latex paint tanish color... and a large soda cup of POP.... it was mixed when i dropped by... but i did finish a section of wall... roller on... wait... and i finished it with a steel trowl (rounded end pool trowl) if i remember right... i got the section of wall i did pretty slick... with just a few "voids" for effect... i could see where you could get it really slick if you wanted... and this was over the worst drywall hang'n job i'd ever seen...
I will use this method again... pretty sure i'll do at least some of my condo units in this method... just s i can stay way from slick finished drywall walls... too new looking for a building thats over 100yrs old...
p
Hmmmmmm? I see you changed Dino's words. If you want to declare your recipe to be the definitive answer, you'll have to eliminate the qualifications. The "ifs" gotta go. I'm almost ready to declare this mystery solved.....can we do it?I hope so......we are soooo close.....you can do it....please....just do it.You'll go down in TU history! FKA Blue (eyeddevil)
Just out of curiosity: I imagine that one could toss in setting compound instead of POP. You see, I usually *have* some of that stuff. . . And I don't give a damn if that wall is as hard as ye olde plaster. Thoughts?
If you keep setting compound on hand, you may as well just use it straight (thinned as needed). I've found that setting compound works better for skim coating than bucket mud.
As to your actual question, I haven't tried what you suggested, but I'm sure it would work. But, I suspect that it wouldn't work any better than straight setting compound. Be sure to let us know if you discover a new magic formula. We'll call it BL-Mix :-).
We mixed joint compound, paint for tint and varathane (I believe for hardness) and troweled it. Because of the varathane you only have about 15 minutes to work it, so a smooth finish would be difficult. Don't know if a spray bottle would allow more work time.
I think you deleted your post as I am writing this. Must have gone back and read the original post?
Mike
Trust in God, but row away from the rocks.
yep, that I did and there was the answer in black and white.
Thanks.
be I need to work on that
But what is the varathane?
Edited 12/9/2007 12:30 am ET by rez
I was the cheapest water based stuff for floors. I don't have any ratios of the mix. If you are interested I could probably find out. We sprayed and troweled, but for smaller jobs they just trowel it on.
This d-mix sounds more "workable", I wonder if you can mix color into it? Mike
Trust in God, but row away from the rocks.
Good question.
Tint the PVA maybe?