Replies

1. 
   pinko | May 04, 2007 05:16pm | #1

   Many (if not most) laminate manufacturers allow for gluing--and even advise it--in moisture prone areas like a bathroom or entry. I'd ask these questions of your supplier BEFORE you buy the product. Gluing the seams only adds a slight increase in install time. Also, all edges (around the perimeter) may be siliconed. I'd especially do this at ext. door thresholds.

   Also, buy the best laminate you can afford..you should expect to pay at least $3/ s.f. for decent laminate.

2. 
   Sojourner | May 05, 2007 02:30am | #2

   Hopefully someone will come along who has much more experience in this stuff and can better answer your questions, but in the meantime:

   I'm not a pro, but I've done a bit of this snap-lock stuff in, and if you don't glue it, you will definitely have problems in the application you describe. (It's also very slippery when wet.)

   I expect even if you just "seal" the joints with a thin coat of glue, it'd be better than nothing; but it's remarkable what moisture will work its way in there and the damage it will do.

   As for changing the orientation of the boards, i think they call for a T-type molding there, which I know isn't a very elegant look, even if you fabricated up something low-profile yourself. Depending on the span and how much movement in all directions can be expected, I wonder if you might be better off cutting the edges flush, and then butting, gluing, and clamping them up (and hoping for the best).

   soj

3. 
   FLA Mike | May 05, 2007 06:58pm | #3

   "How would I treat the right angle butt joint?"

    Why not miter that?

    

   "We believe that with particle board we may be able to eventually make structural beams for building that will literally rival a steel I-beam in strength. The first law in the science of composites says that all other things being equal, the strength of the product is directly proportional to the length of the fiber. The longest fiber in a Douglas fir is three-quarters of an inch. If you grow a fifteen-foot hemp plant, you get a fifteen-foot fiber and that's why we're doing the MDF for right now."- David Seber

    

    
4. 
   factotam | May 05, 2007 07:34pm | #4

   if you have concern about moisture you should stay away from a laminate floor

   the transistion in the hall can be made with a T Molding

   i have used Quietwalk Padding  http://www.laminatesfloorscheap.com/products/index.php?a=productlist&list=pads

   it is suppose to be able to deal with some moisture problems, but i dont  know how well it really works

   i would stay away from thompsons water seal or any similar products, if you feel the need for them you are using the wrong floor and if they offer any protection for the flooring it would only be for a temporary period of time

    

5. 
   SBerruezo | May 05, 2007 08:22pm | #5

   I'm not a pro either, but when laying laminates in wet locations I glue the seams with something like Titebond II or III. I won't swear by it, but I hope it has some preventitive measures.

   I have seen several laminate floors swell up due to moisture problems though (not where I've done the glue), so I would definitely try something. Maybe buy a box and experiment with different methods/products.