I will be installing a snap-lock laminate floor soon. Kitchen and back hallway with a back entrance door. I have read through the previous posts in the archives, but I’m still seeking a little feedback from all the seasoned professionals. Between the sink, dishwasher, dog water bowl, and 6 months of tracked in snow, I have some moisture control issues! I was thinking of treating all the machined edges with Thompsons or similar penetrating sealant previous to installation. Anybody try this? Would it swell the edges? What about residual odor? I was also thinking about gluing all the joints. Would thickness of the glue screw up the locking system? Having glued up a Pergo floor a couple of years ago, I’m not real keen on doing it again. I would really like to enhance the water resistance of the floor, I don’t care about the labor involved, if it works. Also, The back hall is L-shaped, I would like to run both sections of the hallway with the floor running the long dimension. How would I treat the right angle butt joint? The ends of the flooring are tongue-and-groove, but they will butting into the locking edge. Could I modify the locking edge to become a tongue? Thanks to all in advance for your help!!
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Many (if not most) laminate manufacturers allow for gluing--and even advise it--in moisture prone areas like a bathroom or entry. I'd ask these questions of your supplier BEFORE you buy the product. Gluing the seams only adds a slight increase in install time. Also, all edges (around the perimeter) may be siliconed. I'd especially do this at ext. door thresholds.
Also, buy the best laminate you can afford..you should expect to pay at least $3/ s.f. for decent laminate.
Hopefully someone will come along who has much more experience in this stuff and can better answer your questions, but in the meantime:
I'm not a pro, but I've done a bit of this snap-lock stuff in, and if you don't glue it, you will definitely have problems in the application you describe. (It's also very slippery when wet.)
I expect even if you just "seal" the joints with a thin coat of glue, it'd be better than nothing; but it's remarkable what moisture will work its way in there and the damage it will do.
As for changing the orientation of the boards, i think they call for a T-type molding there, which I know isn't a very elegant look, even if you fabricated up something low-profile yourself. Depending on the span and how much movement in all directions can be expected, I wonder if you might be better off cutting the edges flush, and then butting, gluing, and clamping them up (and hoping for the best).
soj
"How would I treat the right angle butt joint?"
Why not miter that?
if you have concern about moisture you should stay away from a laminate floor
the transistion in the hall can be made with a T Molding
i have used Quietwalk Padding http://www.laminatesfloorscheap.com/products/index.php?a=productlist&list=pads
it is suppose to be able to deal with some moisture problems, but i dont know how well it really works
i would stay away from thompsons water seal or any similar products, if you feel the need for them you are using the wrong floor and if they offer any protection for the flooring it would only be for a temporary period of time
I'm not a pro either, but when laying laminates in wet locations I glue the seams with something like Titebond II or III. I won't swear by it, but I hope it has some preventitive measures.
I have seen several laminate floors swell up due to moisture problems though (not where I've done the glue), so I would definitely try something. Maybe buy a box and experiment with different methods/products.