YC & Steelbuddha – Well, I tried the stuff. A few comments:
1) Never, NEVER, NEVER try something for the first time on the head wall in a stairway! (36 sq ft)
2) The roller must have been made from cat fur, from all the hairs it shed. Never did figure out how to get the mix rolled into the corners w/o getting a mess on the adjacent wall. Wound up w/ too thin a layer along the corners.
3) First try was w/ one of those flexible levelers discussed in the original thread. Nowhere stiff enough for the mix proportions Dino gave.
4) Roughly sanded the wall to knock off the really high lumps. Tried using a knife & my mud pan to put mud along the corners. Was able to leave a nice layer.
5) Finally figured out how set the mud had to be to work it w/ the knife. I’m not a pro, so I worked w/ an 8 inch blade, rather than the 14 mentioned in second thread. Got a really slick finish after finding the correct point in the set time.
6) Waited about 4 hrs & attacked the wall w/ a sanding block. Two hours later, it is smooooooooth as a baby’s butt (w/o diaper rash).
7) I can see how that mix would give you the grade 5 finish if you were skilled w/ a trowel/knife. Absolutely superb finish w/ minimun sanding of areas that I used knife on. Rest of wall took all the time, but is beautiful. Wife, who was sawing logs during all the sanding, woke up, cleaned teeth, looked at wall, declared it great, and went back to sawing logs.
8) Not recommended for other than nightowls to sand walls between 11)) PM & 100 AM.
9) Thanks, Dino.
Don
Replies
TRUE! I used the D-mix this past weekend and came up with very similar comments. I bought the 'Magic Trowel' (flexible blade) and found it difficult to get the wall smooth. But, taking into account my level of skill and the fact that I was skimming a terrible plaster wall, it worked OK. I did go back with a sanding block and knocked down all the imperfections and recoated with the D-mix. After coating again, and sanding again, the wall is smooth. It is not perfect, but it is better than what I started with. I plan on finishing my garage out this summer and will use the D-mix for that job. I figured with what I learned this round and the step uo to coating new rock, it'll be much better.
All in all, the mix is great and I appreciate you sharing it with us.
On #5... How long did you find you had to wait before trowelling? How much time did you have total before it was no longer trowellable?
What was your mix and which products did you use (i.e., whose PVA primer; which JC)?
Sun: Used US Gyp standard JC; Behr PVA wallboard primer/sealer. POP mfg I don't know.Mixed a half recipe of about 1.25 gal JC; 1 Qt PVA; 1 std kitchen dry measure cup PoP. Mixed like Heck w/ humongous Bosch drill & paddle. First wall (36 sq ft), rolled it on entire wall; waited about 10 min. Used rubber bladed tool to smooth out. Really too stiff a mixture to smooth. Did not do well. Could not move material around into corners, where it was too thin. Got it as smooth as possible; had to resort to sandpaper.Second wall - about same size. Added about 8 oz water; mixed daylights out of it. Rolled on entire wall. came back w/ rubber bladed tool. Same results. Looked even worse than first wall. Roughly 30 - 45 min before I got to end of area w/ finishing tool. Looked like Helllll! Toptally unacceptable finish.Came back to first wall after roughly flattening it w/ sanding block. Used 8" knife to put a layer of same mud (After it sat overnight in bucket w/ lid on it) along wall edges to get into corners. About 1/16 inch thick. Started troweling it immediately after applying. Too soft - wouldn't smooth out. Waited about 30 min - now it was set up enough that I could trowel it very smooth & glassy. Only did one knife blade width from wall edges. It faired out to nothing beautifully. Smooth & slick like a mirror. Put mud on w/ strokes perpendicular to wall edges to ensure I got a complete fill into corner. Finished it w/ strokes parallel to walls edges. Left a ridge along edge of knife as I troweled it out. CAme back w/ sanding block & took ridge off. Cannot see junction between last coat & first. Spent two hours finishing center area to make it acceptably smooth and featureless (No dings, scratches, lumps). It is practically reflective now, it is so smooth. Sanding dust residue left on wall drove me bonkers, but really had no choice. Used a Norton 3X sanding block 60 grit. The finish is hard enough that it comes out smooth w/ that grit. Used 3 blocks to do the 36 sq ft. Fortunately, I ran out of wall before I ran out of elbow grease.Tonight I attack the worse wall w/ a rented PC wallboard sander. Not about to do another wall w/ hand blocks. After getting rid of really bad stuff, will apply another coat of same mud w/ roller in main area & knife in corners. Let you know how it comes out.Please, please don't do what I did & start in a stairwell. I'd rasther have my fingernails pulled out w/ a pair of pliers. Shoulda known better! Some of us just learn slower than others. That's why God invented sandpaper.DonThe GlassMasterworks - If it scratches, I etch it!
If I remember Dino's receipe correctly, that sounds like too much plaster of Paris. I thought he only used an 8 oz cup for a full mix.
Bob
Bob: As I read it, he used a Starbucks coffee cup. I looked at my wife's 1 cup dry measure & it looked about half the size (volume) of a coffee cup. Dino's measure was kinda foggy & imprecise, at best. Where we live in the middle of the Nawth Jawja woods, we don't have many Starbucks coffee cups!Sanded down the second, really crappy, second wall tonight w/ a PC wallboard sander. Really worked like a champ. Saved me from having to redo the entire wall. All I have to do is the edges, just like the first wall.DonThe GlassMasterworks - If it scratches, I etch it!
Don.
Dunkin Donuts. No starbuck.
75% of a small cup of coffee. On 2-1/2 gallons of JC. And enough primer to make the mix workable. (roll-able)
Good Job Don.
Few more times and you don't need sandpaper.
The ultimate goal should be, One coat and zero dust.
Next time it will be EZier.
Are you smoothing with a taping knife, a smoothing trowel, or that new fangled wall squeegee?
If using a smoothing trowel, would wetting it a bit (like plasterers do) help?
and finally, it goes like this, right?
- mix PVA and JC, when ready mix in PoP, roll, wait, smooth
Can you give me some ROUGH ideas of the "wait" part (1 min, 10 min, 2 hours?) I imagine that you "wait until it is workable", but what is "workable"? Doesn't stick to the trowel, but still smooths out?
Did I also read on here that you have "rolled it, waited, rolled it again" and not troweled it?
Will be trying D-mix in two weeks.
Here comes another round of herding cats.
blueJust because you can, doesn't mean you should!
Warning! Be cautious when taking any framing advice from me. There are some in here who think I'm a hackmeister...they might be right! Of course, they might be wrong too!
>>> Here comes another round of herding cats.
ROTFLMO. Exactly my thoughts, as in "here we go again", for the n'th time.
BTW, Dino, the Dunkin Donut cup, supposed to drink the coffee first I assume, right?
(just kidding, I DO appreciate your time and patience in sharing this with us :-)
Yeh - but look at all the early springtime fun we are having learning something new.DonThe GlassMasterworks - If it scratches, I etch it!
B.E.D.: Herding cats - no sweat! A 20 guage shotgun makes it easy. Applied between the eyeballs once per cat, followed by carrying them by the tails makes it easy - but messy.DonThe GlassMasterworks - If it scratches, I etch it!
Are you smoothing with a taping knife, a smoothing trowel, or that new fangled wall squeegee?
Use whatever you can use. I use both. And I like to try the new magic trowel.
If using a smoothing trowel, would wetting it a bit (like plasterers do) help?
Yes.
and finally, it goes like this, right?
- mix PVA and JC, when ready mix in PoP, roll, wait, smooth
Yes,Yes,Yes
Can you give me some ROUGH ideas of the "wait" part (1 min, 10 min, 2 hours?) I imagine that you "wait until it is workable", but what is "workable"? Doesn't stick to the trowel, but still smooths out?
What is workable?
Ask Don. He can tell you what not to do. Workable is that you can use your roller to allpy it and is not to soft or to hard to make it smooth. It will tell you how long you have to wait. But. Make it as smooth as you can right the way and come back to finish it later. 5-10-15 minutes? Is all up to the whether, the previews surface and your skill.
Did I also read on here that you have "rolled it, waited, rolled it again" and not troweled it?
Not from me. But you can do-it if the mix gets hard on you to eliminate the sanding.
Will be trying D-mix in two weeks.
Good luck. And out.
Thanks - I will let y'all know how it goes.
YC: Hmmmmmm. Sounds like I did overdose on PoP, after all. My 8 oz PoP dry measure would be just about the size of your cup that you used for 2 1/2 gal JC. About twice as much as I needed for a half a recipe. Oh, well, I'll just throw away what I have left in the bucket & start over. That's why I only did half a recipe - to reduce the cost/problems if the mix needed to be adjusted.We will pass a Dunking Doughnuts this AM when we go out. I'll buy a small cup & see exactly what size it is. Since I don't drink coffee, I'll pour it out & keep the cup.DonThe GlassMasterworks - If it scratches, I etch it!
they also have teabtw, kindly tell us how many oz
bobl Volo, non valeo
Baloney detecter
BOBL: BTSOOM! Will not know oz till I buy a cup, pour contents on the asphalt, take it home & measure it!DonThe GlassMasterworks - If it scratches, I etch it!
Don.
Next time make it roll-able. More PVA?
And instead applying the mix in one spot and try to cover a larger area, Apply the mix in 4-6 spots within 16 sq. feet and roll the mix after your roller is almost empty.
And don't wait for the stuff to dry. make it as smooth as you can right the way (5 minutes) and you can make it finish smooth later.
Unlike the ready mix jC and setting compound's the D-Mix is workable with out re-coating. Yes timing is a good thing but the mix is very forgiving.
The idea is that the more you use it, the better you and the D-Mix gets.
Never the less. is sandable too.
Good job Don.
Dino
love your sense of humour but I love your lateral thinking more. You are too modest. Put your web site http://www.eurekazone.com/ on the bottom of your posts and let 'em all know how brilliant you are.
Mike Smith sent me one of your guides. It now resides in Australia. Do you have a distributor here?
regards
Markhttp://www.quittintime.com
Hi Mark.
We need a picture.The EZ on the INDIAN. ok. On the 1/2 indian.:)
Northwood is our dealer in AU. Good folks.
http://www.northwoodtools.com.au/
See you Mark.
Edited 3/18/2005 5:16 pm ET by YCFriend
Dino
No Indian..not even half a one. Mike is confused ( it must be his old age )...I brought some Indian parts back with me from the States but they were for trading for parts for my other bikes.
I have 2. One is a 1908 FN ( first ever inline 4 cylinder shaft drive ) and the other is a 1912 New Hudson. A British bike, 750 twin 3 speed box. My family irreverently refer to them as Rusty and Dusty.
http://quittintime.infopop.cc/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=bar&Number=2566&Forum=All_Forums&Words=fn&Match=Entire%20Phrase&Searchpage=0&Limit=25&Old=allposts&Main=2566&Search=true#Post2566
Both have a long way to go before they are rideable . The attached pics are of the FN of a friend of mine in Boston.
regards
mark
http://www.quittintime.com
Edited 3/21/2005 5:04 am ET by MARKCADIOLI
mark... i must have you confused with my grandfather and his 1912 IndianMike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
Simply beautiful.
Back then the goal was to make it move. I'm sure the first people that saw this bikes thought of them as madness on wheels and over powered.
Thanks for the pictures.
Tried the D mix today in a stairwell leading to a basement mechanical room. Not the EZ-est place to try something new.
We used 1/2 a box of plus 3 joint compound, two cups (not DD cups) PoP, two cups PVA primer. Had to add a little water (about 3/4 cup) to make it roll.
Used a good quality 3/4 nap cover ,not lambswool, no problems.
I had previously hot mud taped and spotted nails.
Helper rolled it on, and I smoothed and filled with a 12" taping knife.
Looks plenty good for a cellar stairwell, looks better that the old plaster wall adjacent to it.
And it was EZ.
I will check it in the morning, if it looks OK I will paint it and be DONE.
Cool.
Thanks, Dino.Heck If I know....
Thank yourself and Mr. Taunton who allow me to pimp the D-mix.
Good job. Next time find a lambswool roller with 3/4" nap.(1oo%) lambswool.
We have the D-mix demo this weekend. One piece of cdx plywood look like melamine today. And the stucco areas very authentic.
Good job Heck.
What kind of coffee did you drink Heck?
Was it dunkin donuts brand?
blueJust because you can, doesn't mean you should!
Warning! Be cautious when taking any framing advice from me. There are some in here who think I'm a hackmeister...they might be right! Of course, they might be wrong too!
LOL.If you must know, I used a tin camping cup, I think is about D D cup size.
I was gonna use a cup I had been saving from starbucks, but I was pretty sure that would blow the budget! ;-)
Try it, Blue. What the heck?
Heck If I know....
I got an entire garage to do, but I just can't get the handle on the coffee thing. I drink mine black, but my wife likes French Vanilla.
Which should I use for the D mix?
blueJust because you can, doesn't mean you should!
Warning! Be cautious when taking any framing advice from me. There are some in here who think I'm a hackmeister...they might be right! Of course, they might be wrong too!
I got an idea.
You do one wall with your black cup. (I predict it will come out a 'mocha' color)
Your wife does one with her Freedom Vanilla. ( I predict it will fail to mix with the other stuff)
You pick the one you like best to finish the garage.
:)Heck If I know....
Well Don, I don't know if I'm the cat or the cat herder here, but I think you said your roller was made of cat fur or something, so now I'm getting a little worried about this whole concept. Anyway, I thought part of the EZ plan was using mesh tape and pre-coating the seams and corners with a knife, as usual (same as in applying veneer plaster), THEN rolling on the mud (in lieu of trowelling on the veneer). Or are you suggesting that rolling first, skimming, THEN coming back after this coat is dry to do the corners is a better application? And what about the seams/butts? Did you not pre coat those before you rolled?FYI: I'm a good taper and finisher the 'old fasioned' way. I don't like to sand, hence I've become rather good at being very clean in every coat. I sand only after the last coat (usually only three--I do a 4th touch-up after priming), and then only if I'm applying a slick finish. No, actually I HATE to sand. My method is fast, but its a pain in my ast. I want fastER and EZ-ER. That's why I'm enjoying this conversation and appreciate your input. PS: My normal method for finishing corners is after tape coat (in which I always use paper, creased, for a clean, sharp first coat), I then second coat w/ a 5" knife only ONE side of each corner...let dry, then final coat OTHER side of all corners. How would this method mesh w/ the EZ way of D-mix rolling/finishing?Blue: Don't know much about cat-herding, but ever try and stuff a cat into a bag? A live one, I mean.
Don't know much about cat-herding, but ever try and stuff a cat into a bag? A live one, I mean.
Sun, cat herding sounds hard, but stuffing a cat into a bag sounds a lot harder!
I'm laffing hard now....the only thing harder than herding and stuffing is explaining the D Mix!
I knew this thread was going to make me laff!
blue
Ps I swear, I got tears in my eyes! I don't know why, but every time I read these threads I crack up!Just because you can, doesn't mean you should!
Warning! Be cautious when taking any framing advice from me. There are some in here who think I'm a hackmeister...they might be right! Of course, they might be wrong too!
Sun: Actually, my roller is a 50/50 lambs wool/polyester mix. It just sheds like a cat. Lasterday I stumbled across a 100% lambswool in Blowes. Bought it. Will see if it works better.My walls were done by real wallboard hangers/finishers. My IQ is too high to try doing this from scratch. My stairwell just got botched by a marginal hanging/finishing crew and having to open the walls to install 2X6 inserts to hang stair rails from. All the corners are finished - I just had to get into the corners w/ this new mix to get the level of finish I want.I hate sanding, also - I'm just not good enough to get away w/o using the block. Getting better, however. Ever try to stuff a cat into a toilet to give it a bath? (The Neal Boortz method) We bathe our cats frequently - it's a hoot. Finally figured out how to do it - you scruff them, and they go passive. Also helps if you can gently wrap your hand around their neck and hold. They again go passive. Keeping a cat bathed helps w/ the shedding.Well, one question is answered - don't wait 30 min to trowel!DonThe GlassMasterworks - If it scratches, I etch it!
>>> Ever try to stuff a cat into a toilet to give it a bath? (The Neal Boortz method) We bathe our cats frequently - it's a hoot.
Yeah, here's some tips (attachment) on bathing a cat, in case you lack the experience.
Now back to that D-mix
Sun: Do you mean a live cat into a bag, or a cat into a live bag?DonThe GlassMasterworks - If it scratches, I etch it!
Hi guys.
this is getting funny.
100% genuine- lambskin. And nothing else.
75% of a coffe cup "Small coffee cup." on 2-1/2 gallons of JC.
If you mix one gallon of JC you use 1/4 of a small coffee cup.
And to make sure we don't use the wrong cup, I specified D-Donuts small coffee cup of coffee.
Enough primer to make it rollable. 1/2 gallon? 3/4 of a gallon?
Whatever it takes.
I know my English is not good and I misspell joke, But this is becoming a jock.
And I'm glad that blue is having fun. Time will tell.
Now, I got to go back to my EZ. The way my stupid brain works amaze me.
When I'm confronted with one problem, I have to solve few others.
And thanks to you blue, For the first time in woodworking history, now we have repeat-ability from a shooter board.
Thanks guys.
YCF Dino.
Hey, i got to get something out of this.
Edited 3/17/2005 11:58 pm ET by YCFriend
Thanks again YCF. I've updated the notes I made the last time this was discussed.
What's D Mix?
Don't ask - you're too young!ROFLMFAO!!!!DonThe GlassMasterworks - If it scratches, I etch it!
It's too late Don...the cat's out of the bag!
Here we go again.....
blueJust because you can, doesn't mean you should!
Warning! Be cautious when taking any framing advice from me. There are some in here who think I'm a hackmeister...they might be right! Of course, they might be wrong too!
Blue: This ain't no cat - it's a sabre-toothed tiger, and it's hungry & mad! Try giving this little kitty a bath.DonThe GlassMasterworks - If it scratches, I etch it!
Mad dog.
We go over this another time. In two weeks we will have a workshop-demo and someone should be able to explain the whole thing better than me.
And we will shoot a video for blue and the likes.
See you in few weeks.
Dino: Wish I could make it up to New Joisey for your demo in Apr - but that's a bit far to drive. If you do one in Late July/early Aug, I'll probably come.Meanwhile, how much will a copy of your XXX rated video made for Blue cost? Will it show the various methods of bathing cats? How about some of the many ways to skin a cat? Even better yet, how to do the head wall in a stairwell?Dino - I'm not gonna let this D Mix thing go till I learn how to use it. I have a whole house to do. Gotta live up to my hard-earned reputation as a hard-headed loudmouth!Yours till the D Mix dries.DonThe GlassMasterworks - If it scratches, I etch it!
Blue's XXX cat bathing movie:
"Hot, Wet, P*****S"
Sorry, back to my corner.
And thanks to you blue, For the first time in woodworking history, now we have repeat-ability from a shooter board
Yc, thanks for the credit. I'd really like to understand what I'm getting credit for.....how did I help you get repeatability from a shooter board?
I don't even know what a shooter board is!
blueJust because you can, doesn't mean you should!
Warning! Be cautious when taking any framing advice from me. There are some in here who think I'm a hackmeister...they might be right! Of course, they might be wrong too!
In woodworking a shooter board is a jig which is set up to have a plane ride on it's side along the board with a cutoff fence that rides to a miter angle, which faces the sole of the plane. It's an old method of cutting miters with a plane. Usually the jig is a home made device but Stanley did make a line of them and other companies do now. There is a plane that is specifically made for this called (you ready?)...a miter plane.
Thanks Jer...that explanation got me dizzy. Thank goodness you said it was a jig. That's good enough for me, cause I aint ever going to use one anyways. Your explanation proves that there isn't any substitute for experience! I forever know what a shooter board is, in one second if we were working together on the jobsite.
blueJust because you can, doesn't mean you should!
Warning! Be cautious when taking any framing advice from me. There are some in here who think I'm a hackmeister...they might be right! Of course, they might be wrong too!
Dino: Skip the self deprecating comments on your English. We all get the idea, and that is what's important. Not very many of our ancestors came here knowing how to speak English (American), let alone write it! This is, without a doubt, the most difficult language in the world to learn. Desi Arnaz made a fortune out of his fractured English. (Anyone else remember his butchery of all the ...ough words?) Go do the same!DonThe GlassMasterworks - If it scratches, I etch it!
Dino: We all get the idea, and that is what's important.
Don. How do you get the idea when I say 100% -3/4" thick lambswool/lambskin and you get the 50/50 ?
I specific said 100% and not 99%. This is a system and if one component or part is not working right, the whole D-Mix becomes a "cat in the bag???"
Blue. Here we go again. The first video will have your name on it.
See you guys.
I need a vacation.
Dino: Enough, already. I just sent my wife out, 17 miles, one way, to the closest Dunking Doughnuts to buy a stinking cup of their coffee (Small size). All that at $2.00 a gal for gas, just so I could comply EXACTLY w/ your system.Couldn't find a 100% lambswool at first, so bought the closest thing I could find. Maybe the 100% Lambswool I found at Blowes lasterday will work better than the cathair roller I got first.Meanwhile, think I'll take a nap!DonThe GlassMasterworks - If it scratches, I etch it!
So what the hell am I gonna do?
I live 240 miles from the nearest Dunkin Donuts.Gas here is 2.20.ol' Blue gets 12 mpg.$88.00 in fuel round trip, 7 hours time @ 40.00 = 280.00Total = $368.00
Let's see, drywall finish here is .75 sq ft.I could pay someone else to do a whole room for me, and I wouldn't have to find any lambs.
(edited to add:) Or cats.
:-)
Heck If I know....
Edited 3/18/2005 2:52 pm ET by HECK
Well if we are all real nice maybe Don will supply use with a DD to ozs conversion factor when he gets his cup.
Heck, et al: Roll the drums; play a fanfare. I now know the volume of a Dunking Doughnuts cup. But - first the commercial & the bill for all this knowledge: 34 miles at 22.9 mpg = 1.48 gal gas; at $2.00 per gal = $2.97. Or, at the US Income Tax rate of $.39 per mile - 34 X.39 = $13.26. (Now some donkey that went to college is gonna tell me that I'm wrong on the tax mileage) If we parcel out the $13.26 amomg the 328 different folks that care, it comes to roughly $.04 each, payable in drinks in the Tavern for those brave enough to enter. I take my sprite straight up.OK, so much for the important stuff.Cup's volume, based on metric weight when full, using DW's kitchen scale = 320 grams. Tare wt is 10 grams. Net weight of water is 310 grams. Assuming that my water weighs 1 gram per millilitre, gives 310 millilitres of volume. 3/4 of that is 232.5 millilitres. Now it gets tricky. 1 quart (32 Oz) = 947 millilitres - more or less, giving 29.59 millilitres per Oz. That's liquid measure, not dry. Sooooooooo - our 3/4 DD cup is 310/29.59 = 10.48 Oz. Liquid measure - not dry or weight.Have fun, all you potential D Mix users.DonThe GlassMasterworks - If it scratches, I etch it!
Thanks, Don.I'll chip in:
Here's an old milkbone, and the Sprite is on me!Heck If I know....
Don. Are you sure that was the small cup?
Cup's volume, based on metric weight when full, using DW's kitchen scale = 320 grams. Tare wt is 10 grams. Net weight of water is 310 grams. Assuming that my water weighs 1 gram per millilitre, gives 310 millilitres of volume. 3/4 of that is 232.5 millilitres. Now it gets tricky. 1 quart (32 Oz) = 947 millilitres - more or less, giving 29.59 millilitres per Oz. That's liquid measure, not dry. Sooooooooo - our 3/4 DD cup is 310/29.59 = 10.48 Oz. Liquid measure - not dry or weight.
To make it EZ for all, One handfull of pop.
Good thing you don't reside in Alaska.
Not only you have made my day but Many-many more days to come.
Thanks Don.
Dino: Yep, twas a small cup. BTW - checked out DW's steel measuring cup - came out to about 3/4 of a DD small cup. So I definately OD'd on PoP.Back to the old drawing board.Heck - is that a low carb dogbone? Need to know before eating it.DonThe GlassMasterworks - If it scratches, I etch it!
I am just as lost as MadDog here.
What are you guys talking about... small cup, DW's cup...DD cup? Why can't we just stick to the ABCD etc.?
55614.24
I think,I'm going to Sahara.
Tom: This is the General category of subject, not the Tavern. Cup size refers to wife's steel measuring cup in the kitchen. Your wife DOES let you use her kitchen utensils for mixing paint, plaster, etc, doesn't she? The DD, though probably means something else to the prurient minded, refers to Dunking Doughnuts in this thread.Sheeeesh!DonThe GlassMasterworks - If it scratches, I etch it!
Dang, Don. It sounds so enticing that I'll have to give it a try someday.
I have to learn how to juggle the different size cups first.
Tom: Just remember to drink the coffee first. If you don't, maks a big mess and stains the mud.DonThe GlassMasterworks - If it scratches, I etch it!
WHAT????? WE'RE SUPPOSED TO DRINK THE COFFEE FIRST?!!
My next question was: how much sugar and cream?
blueJust because you can, doesn't mean you should!
Warning! Be cautious when taking any framing advice from me. There are some in here who think I'm a hackmeister...they might be right! Of course, they might be wrong too!
Blue: Sorry for the confusion - a minor problem. The 2" came out of a 5 gal bucket. Gave me about a gallon of mud.Just looked at the wall - too rich on the PVA. Ridges aren't as brittle as I would like. Will attack the mess after a day of outside work & report back on how it acts. Sun is out here in Nawth Jawja for third consecutive day, & need to take advantage of it while the world isn't slimy like that eel from the red clay.Sugar & cream are your choice - depends on how much & what color you want the staining if you don't drain the cup first.DonThe GlassMasterworks - If it scratches, I etch it!
Just use a bull float, be done in no time.
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
"Sell your cleverness, Purchase Bewilderment"...Rumi
Thanks don! I think I know what to do now!
blueJust because you can, doesn't mean you should!
Warning! Be cautious when taking any framing advice from me. There are some in here who think I'm a hackmeister...they might be right! Of course, they might be wrong too!
Alleluia!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Good timing blue.
I'm done with few problems that I was stuck for a long time.
The D-mix was $$$$$$ very good to me for many years. And now that I do "new ideas" I work better when I'm confronted.
Now that you know what to do with the D-mix , I have to find something else for you to learn and me to ..noh, I'think I need a brake.
Breaktime.
Blue: Just when you think it's safe to go back in.....I make another post w/ my latest adventure in D-Mix Land.Did another wall today. Modified my mix as follows: 2 inches of USGyp JC from a 5 gal bucket; 1 qt Behr PVA; 3/8 DD small cup of PoP. I picked those qtys so I didn't squander an entire half bucket of JC on one aborted try. Mixed up smoother than a milk shake. Went on easier than you could imagine. Was even able to pretty well smooth it w/ the magic rubber squeegee. Put on no more w/ the roller than I could do in about 5 min. That was about 12 sq ft. Limited because I was working the head wall over the stairs, & it has a framed hole in the center of it & I was working from a scaffold jutting out into space over the top of a ladder. I am Deathly afraid of heights, & DW had to stand on far end of scaffold so I didn't take the usual plunge from a scaffold that the condemned take, but minus the rope. After 5 min & smoothing it as best I could w/ the magic rubber thingy, I shifted the scaffold to the other side of the stairs & mudded up that side & smoothed it w/ the rubber thingy. Then lowered the scaffold & did the section below that; moved to other side & did that. Then I got brave & took my 12" knife & started smoothing it out. Worked quite well. By the time I was finishing up the smoothing, it was about 30-45 nim later, and the mud smoothed out slicker than a snot dipped eel. Now, I'm not particularly proficient w/ a 12" knife, so I have a ridge at the edge of each blade width, but they will knock off easily w/ my friendly sandpaper block. I can see from this experience that if you were a pro that you could finish it baby-butt smooth w/o any sanding. I'll just be happy to get my close to grade 5 finish for paint.It's been about two hrs since I finished, and the ridges are still soft. Won't be till tomorrow that I can sand them - probably need a bit more JC & PoP with the qt of PVA. I think it will set up faster & get a bit smoother & harder.At least I've found a proportion that works for me - but need to tweak it a bit. In retrospect, I was waaaaay over in Pop last time. This time I think I'm a bit short. But - being an old artilleryman, I now have a bracket, and can split the difference & fire for effect!Oh, yes - before I forget - Get a 100% lambswool roller cover. It doesn't shed like the 50-50 one. Spend a week hunting, if you must, but find that little sheepskin!Second - the lambswool cleans out pretty easily. A lot easier than if it were full of paint. That sucker cost over $9.00, and I'm not going to toss it after one wall!To paraphrase an old nursery rhyme: D-Mix fresh; D-Mix old; D-Mix in the pot, 5 days cold. Some like it fresh; some like it old; But cleaning a bucket 5 days cold is a real B - ITCH!Will keep you posted.DonThe GlassMasterworks - If it scratches, I etch it!
Alleluia!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Good job!!! old artilleryman,
Blue is next.
Nah! Blue is beyond help.DonThe GlassMasterworks - If it scratches, I etch it!
Have you tried cleaning that ridge off with a tape knife when hardened? Usually works for me and cleaner than sanding. But that was not with "Dino's Special".
Edited 3/19/2005 11:04 pm ET by RASCONC
Haven't tried that. Will tomorrow. D Mix doesn't seem to act that much different from regular JC.DonThe GlassMasterworks - If it scratches, I etch it!
I have heard of some people grinding down the corners of their knives just a little so as to not gouge.
don... i noticed this in your post
<<<<and the mud smoothed out slicker than a snot dipped eel. Now, I'm not particularly proficient w/ a 12" knife, so I have a ridge at the edge of each blade width>>>
are you using a plaster trowel or a dry wall trowel.. ?.
a plaster trowel has no camber.. a dry wall trowel does..
also lots of plasterers kill the corners of their new trowels ( round them over )
see, a dry wall trowel is meant to ground out on the hard surface of the drywall.. so there is no ridge.. in other words, a 12" drywall trowel would really only spread a 10" or so swath.. and the material would feather to zero at the edges
a plaster trowel has no camber.. it's flat. and the corners do not dig inMike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
Mike.
When you have a job that you can use the D-Mix, call me.
You can finish a small house in one day with 2 more guys and you can paint the house the next day without any sanding.
IF you have any rough spots you fix them after the primer.
Scrape the spot with a tape knife (Like Rasconicko mention before) and reg.JC.
Dino
I'll find a job we can try it out on....are you ready for a trip to australia?
http://www.quittintime.com
Hey, Mate, pay my way & I'll come. Other than that, I work cheap. Always wanted to go to the only place in the world where there are more species of venomous snakes than non venomous.DonThe GlassMasterworks - If it scratches, I etch it!
are you ready for a trip to australia?
Ready? Yes.
Australia is the only continent that I never have the luck or time to visit.
When we got the first export order for the EZ, it was from AU. And I thought about hand delivering the order.:)
But no more time Mark. Not even to try to talk my wife into.:(
But I will send you a video. The no #2 video. No#1 is reserved for Blue.
But if you try the D-Mix 2-3 times you don't need me.The only guys that don't like the D-Mix was my guys. Before I come up with it, I use to do ALL the taping and plaster repairs my self and I pay them to watch me. After the D-Mix I pay my self to watch them.
Anyway. I dream of the day that I can take the tour of AU on a Harley. By that time you should have the Indian ready. Any pictures?
Or I may take Pininfarina with me.
I dont' think I need a video YC. All I need to know is if it's one cube or two on the sugar.
Will Latte's work?
What about Cappachino?
blueJust because you can, doesn't mean you should!
Warning! Be cautious when taking any framing advice from me. There are some in here who think I'm a hackmeister...they might be right! Of course, they might be wrong too!
Mike: Using a drywall trowel. Just checked it against a sheet of glass. Absolutely no camber to it. Corners are sharp. Never seen a plasterer's trowel, so I have no frame of reference for any differences. I figured there must be a difference; but I thought that the plasterer's trowel would be cambered, since they are trying to smooth out humongous areas, compared to the size of their tool, whereas a wallboard finisher is trying to fair a relatively narrow strip into the flat wall.Every wallboard knife I have is absolutely flat & straight across the edge.DonThe GlassMasterworks - If it scratches, I etch it!
Then what you have is a plasterer's trowel or finisher's trowel, or perhaps it's an old drywall tool that has lost it's curve. Drywall trowels have the camber to them. There is a difference.
Don, thanks for the entertainment! I love the nursery ryhme, but I will admit...I'm a little confused again.
2" of joint compound? That could be 10 ozs or 2 tons, depending on the cylinder!
Oh well, maybe I should just start thinking like an artilleryman!
blueJust because you can, doesn't mean you should!
Warning! Be cautious when taking any framing advice from me. There are some in here who think I'm a hackmeister...they might be right! Of course, they might be wrong too!
Blue - careful about that thinking like an artilleryman! That can be anywhere in size from 105 mm to 280 mm in diameter, & some are a bit less accurate than others. DonThe GlassMasterworks - If it scratches, I etch it!
make it woth while...
get an extra dozen...
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming
WOW!!! What a Ride!
I put the D-Mix to work today on my current remodel. What I came up with was a pretty decent smooth wall finish without all the sanding and sidelighting. In one room I worked it with an 8" trowel which resulted in a subtle texture, similar to veneer plaster. What I havent figured out in all these threads is just exacty what the mix is supposed to be. A texture coat?, a paint coat?. In my case it was the third coat on my walls and I think it saved a step. I think sanding drywall is a chore that awaits some of you folks down the river Styx.
What I havent figured out in all these threads is just exacty what the mix is supposed to be.
I agree Mcfish! That's what makes these threads so funny. There's probably 25,000 posts regarding the D Mix and no one knows the formula yet!
Maybe it'll take another 50k posts or so...
blueJust because you can, doesn't mean you should!
Warning! Be cautious when taking any framing advice from me. There are some in here who think I'm a hackmeister...they might be right! Of course, they might be wrong too!
It's all three, depending on how badly you screw up trying to get it to be a level 5 finish for painting! Mine looked beautifully like my dad's textured plaster job from early 1954 n Miami, Fla. What I really wanted was the hyper-smooth paintable surface - hence the sanding, rather than another coat that would make the room even smaller (Said w/ a short, humorless laugh by my scoffing, but ever supporting, wife.).DW wears glasses & has great difficulty seeing detail w/o them. When I finished the sandpapering & clean up at about 1 AM, she got up from a sound, snoring sleep to make a quick potty stop. Detoured, minus glasses, semi-conscious, into the unlit hallway, looked at the wall like Mr. Magoo & pronounced it "Beautiful!"; wandered on to the potty, staggered back to bed and returned to La-La-Land. In the AM she didn't even remember the trip.DonThe GlassMasterworks - If it scratches, I etch it!