I’m redoing a small bathroom in our 1938 home..after tearing out the old walls (tile,mortar. and mesh..about 2″ worth) I’m left with
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gap all the way around the perimeter of the room. I’m going to leave the floor(porcelain tiles over 6″ of mortar) and tile over top. To make up this gap I want to put down a mud bed around the perimeter..raising it to the height of the old floor (but leaving an
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Maybe I'm not picturing this right... did the tile on the walls run up to the ceiling? Unless for some reason you need to save part of the walls, with the tile gone I would simply fur out the studs and re-tile with backerboard run right up to the existing floor. Alternatively, if the tile only ran up part of the wall, you can fur out the part that will be re-tiled and install radius trim bullnose at the top (similar to what was there) which will make up the difference.
6" of mortar on that floor? They sure knew how to over-engineer back then.. make sure when tiling over that old floor that there aren't any cracks or settlement in the existing tiles.
Questions are, as I understand the post, is:
1. How to fill in the gap. Yes, deck mud, 5 parts sand to 1 part portland cement or buy "Dry Pack" at DalTile. Because it will have to bond to the old mortar mix, I would probably mist that slightly before packing that mortar in. A concrete bonding agent sprayed on the old slab would be even better. I would also add some wire to the new Dry Pack, like some 3.4 lb floor lathe over tar paper before floating that area. I would also buy some Ad-Mix or "Milk" as we call it to add instead of water to the Dry Pack, either latex or acrylic works fine.
Please be advised that 2" is about the limit for deck mud, and after that it looses strength. I really have a hard time believing that there is 6 inches of mud in your bath, but take your statement at face value. I might want to use some Self Leveling Compound to reduce the 6" to about 2".
Expansion joints are OK, and just use what we call backer rod, a flat foam strip which is stapled onto the plate and studs. Some are perforated so they tear off nicely to leave only about 1/2" thick of foam, and the rest is caulked (This assumes the standard 3/4-1" thick slab of deck mud). Yours is obviously a different animal.
2. Yes once, leveled, you can tile right over that mess. That is an awful lot of weight, Steve, and you are probably exceeding the weight limits for modern homebuilding. Check your framing and floor and you may want to consider tearing that stuff out. I can't advise you because I don't know what the framing looks like.
Assuming you tile right over that area, you may still get some cracks along the perimeter, which may tranfer up into the tiles. I would probably want to wait until it cures, and I would consider using a Laticrete Anti-Fracture Membrane over that crack. It will only add about 1/32nd of an inch.
Good Luck Steve.
Boris
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