I need to tuckpoint my house. However, I just can’t seem to be able to match the color of the new mortar to the old mortar. Trial and error does not seem to be working. Can you tell what color the wet mortar will dry to? I’m hoping some of the pros out there can give me a hand. Thanks!
From building boxes and fitting face frames to installing doors and drawers, these techniques could be used for lots of cabinet projects.
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Replies
Trial and error, I've used ashes with some success
Are you saying that you use the ashes with the colorant ?
No color just ashes, took out some of the pure white look(so to speak) and gave it that aged look. Been 15yrs. ago so can't remember the mix ratio. Seems that CRS is starting to catch up with me.
Well, there's not really any way besides trial and error. Remember that sand color and size/shape has a big effect, as well as the cement color. I use lamp black or black concrete dye to color the masonry cement, and count capfuls per batch.
Good for you for taking the time to match mortars.
zak
"so it goes"
Invisable Tuckpointing Ltd.
Ontario, Canada. - Mario Cantrell
check their website out ive read about it and
this fellow KNOWS what he is talking about he also
is located somewhere in N.Y. he is a regular contributar
to Masonry Magazine that is where you can find back
articles dealing with exact color matching.
Start by getting a piece of mortar and anylize the sand content first. Dissolve the cement or lime with muriatic acid. Then you will be starting off OK. New mortar should be slightly darker than the old because it will fade some as it weathers.
When was your house built? If it's pre-1880s, it's probably a lime mortar with no portland cement. If that's the case, then it's the sand color and coarseness/fineness that primarily determines the color.
The previous poster's suggestion is correct: use muriatic acid to dissolve the lime, then dry the resulting sand. Usually there is a local source of sand that will match, colorwise. Be sure to compare dry sand to dry sand.
Modern lime is very pure and white. I generally color the lime slightly with yellow ochre pigment or similar cement coloring.
Old mortars also often have visible chunks of lime; that can be replicated by adding appropriately-sized bits of dried lime putty (powdered hydrated lime plus pigment and water).
If your house is 20th century, then you're dealing with a portland mix ... but still a high percentage of lime. You'll have to experiment, keeping in mind that sand color and size is key. Also be aware that white portland cement and various pigments are available at masonry supply centers.
Also, to replicate years of weathering, it's important to expose the aggregate by lightly spraying with water before the mortar sets. When the mortar is somewhat set, a small wire brush can be used. And when the mortar is fully set, follow up with a wash of diluted muriatic acid and water rinse.
A previous poster mentioned Mario Cantin and "Invisible Tuckpointing." I took a quick look at one of his articles. Looks like has some good tips about matching more modern mortars. A google search will turn up some info about his techniques.
Attached is look at a project I did a few years ago. This was lime mortar ... rebuilding a portion of a c.1840 stone foundation.
Good luck.
Allen