Replies

1. 
   Guest_ | Jan 03, 1999 07:03am | #1

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   Jim as a horse owner myself the new barn is always a great thing. Need a little info on your wall. Lenght,amount of back fill, soil type(sand clay loam ect..ect.) Have you thought about drain tile and water proofing on your wall? Best of luck with the barn. Email me if you need help

2. 
   Jim_Sexsmith | Jan 04, 1999 06:16am | #2

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   Hi Bill,

   Yes, we have been planning for about 9 months now (too many borders not enough stalls). I have investigated lots of different materials and building types and have been amazed with these dry stack-mortarless concrete blocks (Haenar Block). Our other buildings have been of pole (6x6) construction (steel clad, 6/4 hardwood liner) and this time I wanted something different. (I wanted as little wood in the barn as possible, just trim and roof structure).

   We have a very well draining soil in this area of Ontario (N of Toronto). The building floor will be 8" above the finished exterior grade (slopes away). The underside of the 8" x 24" concrete footings must be 42", because of the well draining soil I probably will not require any perimeter drainage but I will be using a spray on asphalt coating below grade. The height of the 8" walls will be 9' above grade. The overall size of the building is planned at 32' x 60', 8 stalls, tack/feed room and wash stalls. I will be using the same type of stackless block (6") 7' high for interior walls. I even have a recipe for an insulating grout using vermiculite as a aggregate. The blocks can be ordered with an exterior architectural face and smooth side for the interior. I will be applying a sealant after construction.

   The cost of the blocks is more than regular precast blocks but few skills are required and no weather delays. The first course must be set in a mortar bed, which we will set with a transit, the rest just stack like legos. The blocks have horizontal channels for rebar and I plan to vertically reinforce as well reinforce between the o/s wall and interior partitions then fill the cores with grout.

   We now use compacted limestone screenings (some call it crusher dust) as a base in all our stalls covered with rubber mats.

   At last ..... nothing to chew !!

   Jim

   mailto:[email protected]

3. 
   Guest_ | Jan 04, 1999 07:16am | #3

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   Jim sounds like a great plan. I only have a few ideas on your barn.
   1.Use the foundation drains even on well drained soils a big gully washer of a rain storm can "load your wall with a lot of weight.We use a cheap plastic 3"or4" perforated pipe on the footers.Give this a little fall and carry it away from your building.This will go a long way towards keeping your barn dry
   2.Make sure that you remember to install tie bolts in the top course of your block to attach a plate for your roof. We shoot for one ever six feet with at least two per board and use 3/4 washer or 3/8x3"x14"steel with a hole for the bolt. Just remember to build for that 100yr storm and you will have no problems

   A final piece of advice when you site the building figure where your going to add on in a few years there always not enought stalls.

   Enjoy your barn and I can help email me

   b Bill Curry

   b Curry Construction

4. 
   Jim_Sexsmith | Jan 04, 1999 07:59am | #4

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   Thanks for the reply Bill,

   Question?

   I thought about drainage however I don't have that much fall to provide natural positive drainage around the footings. The water table is quite high in this area (Oak Ridges Morraine, a very large aquifier)as well as several ponds fed by artesian springs. All the barns have eavestrough.

   What about forming a sump hole below the wash stalls with submersible pump (set pump level below footing tile). This could also take care of the wash water and pump all water to surface drainage away from building.

   What do you think?

   Thanks for your valued input.

   Jim

1. 
   Jim_Sexsmith | Jan 04, 1999 08:07am | #5

   *Bill,I will be using a number 4 rebar vertically 2'-0" oc, with a threaded 1/2" end welded on every 4'-0" oc. The walls will be grouted to top.Are the self stacking Blocks available in your area? I have only found 1 manufacturer with any specs.Jim

1. 
   David_Edrington | Jan 05, 1999 04:31am | #6

   *You might want to read FHB Issue 16, page 54 for an article we did on dry-stack block. It is still being made here in Oregon.

1. 
   Jim_Sexsmith | Jan 05, 1999 05:58am | #7

   *Dear David,Excellent article, pulled it out as soon as I saw your message. Any tips would be appreciated. Does your Oregon supplier have a URL address? Jim

5. 
   JR_Sexsmith | Jan 05, 1999 05:58am | #8

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   Happy New Year,

   We are planning a small 8 stall horse barn for spring construction, 9 ft high walls, (frost depth 42" in Ontario). Has anyone had experience +ve or -ve as far as using them? We plan to steel reinforce vert.& horz. as well as fill the cores with grout.

   Thanks ... Jim ..have a profitable 99