most durable non-yellowing interior trim paint? unconventional paint?
After painting kitchen trim with white SW pro classic latex, I decided it wasn’t tough enough and repainted with SW pro classic oil. 3 months later it’s yellowing, and I think I could live with it, except for trim around a window where it abuts the new white cabinets (poly factory finish – believe they said a SW poly). Willing to consider unconventional treatments, but I am a homeowner, not professional, and it’s indoors.
1) recommend a different waterborne paint? nearest Eurolux dealer is 3 hrs away, nearest Murano is 3 states away.
2) do ordinary solvent-based spray paints (rustoleum) yellow?
3) unconventional paints – polyurethane, epoxy, lacquer, appliance? I hear some auto paint can be put in spray cans…
4) apparently the paint yellows more in dim areas – sun lamp?
Replies
prep and other options
SW makes a product called Kem Aqua which is a water based lacquer product. I have found it is generally not stocked in retail outlets. You most likely will have to ask for it and allow for appropriate lead times. We have used this oroduct as well as the Pro-Classic (which is a 100% acrylic product) for new casework and cabinet refinishing. Both are tough finishes, but we feel the Kem Aqua offers shorter drying times, better sanding properties, smoother film finish, and seems to result in a harder finish. I recommend spraying both products with an HVLP system for the best finish and least waste of material. Two part catalyzed finished are probably the best finishes out there, but they are usually reserved for commerical, high volume, finishing operations and usually not used by amateurs. Personally, I think one can get real close to that level of finish with the Kem Aqua product line.
BTW, How did you determine that the Pro Classic is not tough enough for your purposes? I ask that because proper preperation is key to top coat performance. In othewords, it is not always the fault of the top coat for film failure.
Why Does it Yellow?
Sunlight? Oil / grease in the air? Heat? That's your first concern; what's making the paint yellow. You might even find that the paint is NOT yellowing- it's the light that is changing.
As for the surface hardness of the paint, you're on the wrong track. I expect you are looking for something thatis abuse / scrubbing resistant.
Rustoleum is a fine paint, but has a rather soft finish. For a harder face, add Japan drier -as directed!- to a liquid form of oil paint. The additive will make brush marks more of a concern; paint accordingly.
Another very hard-finish, non-yellowing paint is solad in sparay cans as "appliance enamel." Be advised that this paint is very runny, and needs to be applied in many, many very light coats- or you will have drips, sags, and runs. Appliance enamel apso shows every surface imperfection, so pay extra care with your prep work.
trim paint...
deadnuts & renosteinke - thanks for your comments. The trim is new, and I was painting over factory priming (cut edges primed with a ceiling paint/primer). I wasn't having trouble with adhesion or anything, the feel was just kind of...rubbery. Will an acrylic cure to a harder finish over a few months? I didn't wait that long before covering it.
Other forum entries have indicated that a white oil-based paint will always yellow in low light, it's just a property of the way it cures.. It's not a grease/dirt issue - only been there about 4 months, discoloring is quite even, including the crown molding. Also I had a flow enhancer in it that was tea-colored.
The original water base paint is covered up now, so maybe I should paint a scrap to reevaluate the feel. I think brush marks may have been some of the problem - makes cleaning a little difficult. Maybe this time use a flow enhancer. I think sometimes those brush marks can feel a little rubbery/grippy. certainly don't clean that well.
Will look into the Kem Aqua and see what the application process is like. Hopefully they'll have a sample to feel. If not, may reconsiter the original paint, or live with the yellowing. I think I'm probably not up to spraying in this context.
Note that modern factory "primers" are for sith. Among other things they tend to change the color of the finish coat.
Sherwin Williams now makes a synthetic shellac white primer. If bleed through of base material (sap, grime, etc.) is a concern, then try using this. Shellac is traditionally one of the best sealers/primers for interior work. The price of shellac has skyrocketed lately, but this synthetic proposes to mediate the rise in commodity cost. It comes in a spray can as well.