Replies

1. 
   Framer | Jan 12, 2006 01:53am | #1

   Why can't you just toenail it? You have no choice unless you rip the sill up which makes no sense. There's nothing wrong with toenailing unless it's not legal from where your from.

   Joe Carola
2. 
   Stilletto | Jan 12, 2006 02:42am | #2

   Rather than toe nailing another option is pocket hole screws Kreg makes a pretty good jig for it, costs around $20 well worth the money.  Two screws per side should do the trick.  You'll need a decent size screw clamp to hold the jig in place while you predrill for the screws.

    

3. 
   Piffin | Jan 12, 2006 02:51am | #3

   How tall is this post? Is it holding up a beam overhead or a free standiong light holder, or a railing connected at one side only or two at right angles, or.....

    

    

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1. 
   JimJ | Jan 12, 2006 04:12am | #5

   It's an 8' post and will hold an overhead beam. There's actually two, one at each end of the beam. I am concerned about maintaining 'square' (plumb) on the posts and wasn't sure the PHD5 would suffice all by itself. Sounds like I could predrill and sink a couple of Simpson 'Strong Screws' into the bottom (on each side) and hold it true (?).

1. 
   Piffin | Jan 12, 2006 04:43am | #6

   Just a pin in center and PL adhesive would do it without the plate, but with the plate already there, the screws is all you need. Forget the metal connector in this case. 

    

   Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!

2. 
   DaveRicheson | Jan 12, 2006 02:11pm | #10

   Temporary diagonal bracing should be used to keep the post plumb and square while you set the beam and whatever is setting on the beam.

   You used the term sole plate,not sill plate. Does that mean you are setting on a existing subfloor (sole plate), or are you setting on a plate on a foundation (mud sill)?

   Just curious. Sometimes construction terminology is loosely used to mean ether sole or sill applications.

    

   Dave

    

1. 
   JimJ | Jan 12, 2006 11:38pm | #12

   The plate is on a foundation, so I quess it is called a mud sill (up to now, the distinction escaped me). I am a little concerned about holding the post true from twisting. I like the idea of a metal plate. Since the post is at the end of the plate, I would use an 'L' shape, I think. That sounds like the best all around idea; I would only have to put it on the inside where there is no sheathing. The outside is sheathed so that would hold it there. After listening (reading) to all, seems pretty logical and why didn't I think of that?  Thanks to all for the thoughts.

4. 
   james | Jan 12, 2006 02:51am | #4

   I think the phd5 will do a better job than poket screws or toe nailing... If you are worried you could pop on a few a35's ( think that is the #) they are a flat tie plate .

    

   james

5. 
   piko | Jan 12, 2006 05:26am | #7

   If you'll be so kind as to enter some personal info into the profile (it escapes me now how to do it -someone else please help...) we could see if you were in a n earthquake zone, for instance. If you were, then you need some serious hardware in there, tying the post to the plate, and the plate to the concrete (or whatever). Steel straps, tee's, or 2x6 scabbed onto both pieces. Abd the plate anchored to the whatever under it.

   ps I think you click on 'update profile' under the banner, abt 2/3rds way along

   Edit: silly me, the phd5 is what we use here for seismic upgrades... and I was more interested in other people's answers than your question. SO, toe-nailing should stop the post rotating on the bolt's fulcrum. But, if you consider that the wood might dry and twist, then t-connectors would be more likely to resist that twist.

   BTW - there's no dumb questions, only dumb answers. You'll get some of those once in a while (and hopefully they're in jest.). Hang around, ask other Q's, and maybe we will all learn something.

   All the best...

   To those who know - this may be obvious. To those who don't - I hope I've helped.

    

   
   

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   Edited 1/12/2006 12:32 am by piko

1. 
   Piffin | Jan 12, 2006 06:29am | #8

   that's a good poiont, but this is not necessarily a shear wall situation 

    

   Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!

1. 
   piko | Jan 12, 2006 08:20am | #9

   There's more to holding a post down than shear wall needs...if it were outside (which I'm assuming it's not , as there's a sole plate), then there's uplift due to wind to take into account, for example.

    All the best...

   To those who know - this may be obvious. To those who don't - I hope I've helped.

    

6. 
   davekaplan | Jan 12, 2006 07:15pm | #11

   from one newbie to another, are you wondering why not have this post secured on both sides? the spec at the simpson website for the HD is only on one side of the post.
   http://www.strongtie.com/products/connectors/HDA-HD.html

   it seems like if the beam is set on the level post, the beam and whatever is above it will keep that post from going anywhere.

   Another Simspon Tie you could use is the post base. The bolt in the concrete is connected to the bottom of the plate and then you can nail the post to the sides of the plate. I like the adjustability factor of the bolt to plate, as a newbie i can use it.

   kaplan