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Discussion Forum

Mounting Microwave w/Range Hood

corrib | Posted in General Discussion on November 4, 2006 12:18pm

I’m wondering if anyone here might point me to some information about mounting a microwave with a range hood over my range.  The cabinets aren’t built yet, but I’m not very familiar with how the microwave is attached to the cabinets.

I know that the charocal filter instead of the outdoor exhaust isn’t as good, but routing ducting through my plaster walls doesn’t sound like much fun. Plus, the integrated system will work nicely with my space requirements.

Thanks!

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  1. User avater
    BillHartmann | Nov 04, 2006 12:33am | #1

    The mostly mount on the wall.

    The cabinet is only used to stablize them.

    I have only installed one, but i suspect that this is common.

    The have metal mounting plate that mounts to the wall. The specs on mine called for at least 2 lag bolts in the the studs. The other two can use toggle bolts.

    The MW hangs on the metal plate then two screws go through the bottom of the cabinet into the top of the MW.

    And you need hole for the power cord and receptacle mounted in the back of the cabinet.

    It should be on a deciated 20 amp circuit.

  2. Dave45 | Nov 04, 2006 12:39am | #2

    Mine isn't attached to the cabinets at all.  It came with a large steel plate that was bolted to the wall studs.  The plate has "arms" that stick straight out from the wall and the microwave has slots that slip onto the arms.

    Your microwave should have templates you can use to attach the support plate - and cut the hole in the cabinets for the exhaust line.  Don't just let it exhaust into the attic.  It needs to go outside - either thru the roof or thru the wall.

    If you'll tell your cabinetmaker what kind of microwave you're buying, he can get the info he needs from the manufacturers website.

  3. User avater
    IMERC | Nov 04, 2006 12:40am | #3

    listen to Bill..

     

     

    Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming

    WOW!!! What a Ride!

    Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!

  4. User avater
    JDRHI | Nov 04, 2006 12:48am | #4

    Bill and Dave have got you the jist of it....I just wanted to touch on the venting.

    Routing through the plaster walls is never fun....but venting to the outside is a better job.

    Can you spare the cabinet above the MW? They usually don't store much useful anyway. You could shoot the vent up through the cabinet and inside the soffet to an exterior wall, and not have to bother with the plaster.

    my 2 cents.

    If you have a problem with certain Breaktime members, put them on ignore. Don't go whining to the moderators about it. Grow up already. Buncha Marys.

    1. corrib | Nov 04, 2006 01:28am | #5

      Maybe I should mount the microwave and range hood and just build the cabinets around them?

      I do have an unused 20 amp circuit so that should be a problem.

      The most difficult part will be the venting for outside. The kitchen wall where the microwave and cabinets will go is adjacent to the stairwell in to my attic. So, the vent pipe would have to go up through the ceiling and have either a 90 degree elbow with the first three feet. Or, it would have to go up and over the stairwell in the attic. 

      I know that outside venting is way better, since I do a lot of cooking of meats and seafood. But, is the juice worth the squeeze for outside?

      I've also posted a picture of what I'm thinking about doing. I'd be interested in comments or criticisms.

      Thanks!

      1. corrib | Nov 04, 2006 01:30am | #6

        Pic posted here..

         

         

        1. calvin | Nov 04, 2006 02:03am | #7

          For you information.  From a typical 7' soffit.  15'' cabinet over range.  16-17'' is the top to bottom size of microwave.

          Mounts to a plate on the wall, 2-3 screws through bottom of cab into micro.  There is serious wt hanging from the cab.  I guess there are self hanging types, but have never mounted one.

          How many times do you really use your vent?  A great place for Information, Comraderie, and a sucker punch.

          Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.

          http://www.quittintime.com/

           

          1. corrib | Nov 04, 2006 02:12am | #8

            I've actually got a full eight feet of room, so I suppose I'll need to size the upper cabinet above the range based on that.  I can't do a soffit as it won't match the other walls in the kitchen.

            I hadn't thought of your point with the weight factor, but does make a lot of sense. Mouting directly to the wall, as Bill mentioned, seems like the best choice. But, since this is a corner installation, I'm not sure of the spacing of the studs. Is letting a nailing rail into the plaster an option?

            I do some cooking several times a week and would anticipate using the vent about 3/4's of the time I cook. I'd really like to do ventless, but I also want to do it right.

            Thanks for info!!!

      2. stikineriver | Nov 04, 2006 07:15pm | #15

        Some of the ones i have installed had the option of 3-1/4'' x 10'' duct out the back. This frees up the upper cabinet for storage. You can get a close elbow and rout the duct to the attic on wall. Once the duct is in the attic, you can convert to 6'' round. Outside ducting is much better than blowing the air back in the cooks face.

    2. Dave45 | Nov 04, 2006 03:32am | #11

      "They usually don't store much useful anyway"

      I beg your pardon, JDRH!!  Mine has an ever so neat box hiding the exhaust duct and there's just enough room on the sides to store my Jim Beam.  Beam is definitely useful!!! - lol

      1. User avater
        JDRHI | Nov 04, 2006 06:04am | #12

        LOL!

        Yep....I've got the same "liquor cabinet".

        If you have a problem with certain Breaktime members, put them on ignore. Don't go whining to the moderators about it. Grow up already. Buncha Marys.

        1. Geoffrey | Nov 04, 2006 09:16am | #13

          ALL the Micros I've installed attach to both the wall and the underside of the upper cabinet, and I've done a few dozen. The plate on the wall secures the micro in place and the bolts through the cabinet into the top of the micro are machine screw bolts! There is substantial weight hanging from that cab. be sure the cabinet is hung properly, i.e. NO drywall screws, use a 9 gauge screw or heavier, with a truss head on it.

          As to the venting, is this a micro/vent hood combo unit? if so you can simply vent straight out the rear of the micro, if not go into the upper cab. and turn 90` and go out the exterior wall, through a properly installed damper, I think you said you had room to do so. Be aware these installations take some solid planning to have them line up properly, so do your homework.

          start on one side working toward micro, when you get to cab over stove stop, and install damper  for vent, cut hole in upper cab. for duct, install cab. then install rest of cabs, then micro/hood. This is a rather simplistic overview but you get the idea of "do your homework"

                                                                  Geoff

  5. sawzall | Nov 04, 2006 02:14am | #9

    gas burners or electric?  You have two differant minimun distances from the burner to the bottom of the microwave.

    1. corrib | Nov 04, 2006 02:34am | #10

      Thanks for that piece of info, I never would have thought of it.

      I'm using an electric range.

  6. Dunc1 | Nov 04, 2006 07:02pm | #14

    Mine (Panasonic) has the metal subframe that supplies most, if not all, of the support. The thru the base of the cabinet fasteners mainly seem to prevent the mw from rolling off the rails.

    Couple of other thoughts. Had a separate range hood b4 this mw. The separate hood had a much more powerful fan (and less noise at max speed)and stronger lighting. Might want to consider.

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