Mounting “setback” for shower head?

Where do I mount the shower head elbow?
Flush with the framing? Inset?
The plumber ain’t available, and I need to keep going….
Setup is: stud/drywall/fiberglass shower unit…
Cheers,Phil.
Where do I mount the shower head elbow?
Flush with the framing? Inset?
The plumber ain’t available, and I need to keep going….
Setup is: stud/drywall/fiberglass shower unit…
Cheers,Phil.
Low-e storm panels improve the energy efficiency of these old sash windows without changing their classic look.
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Replies
I am not a plumber but here's how I did mine.
6'6" vertical off the tile floor and mounted on a 2x4 screwed between two wall studs such that the wide face was recessed about an inch back of the wall stud plane. The shower head el had ears such that I could screw it to the face of the 2x. The face of the el was then flush or slightly recessed of the stud wall plane.
Good Luck,
ES
Thanks, that's what looks right but you never know...it's a fairly nice Delta unit so...here goes...If it is to be.... 'twil be done by me.
close but I suggest 84" high
Hey Wet Head,
Sorry to highjack the thread, but maybe you can offer some advice on a shower head issue. A client wants some work done on her bathroom, including anchoring the shower head somehow. Seems when they built the house 30 years ago, they didn't use an ell with ears, so the arm has been able to move about 2-3 inches if you grab the head and pull/push.
As an oh-by-the-way to the rest of the bathroom work, she'd like the shower head so it won't move. My first suggestion was to remove part of the drywall behind the shower head, put in blocking, and clamp the copper pipe to it. But she nixed the idea, seems she likes the paint job and can't duplicate it.
The shower arm is threaded into the ell, and the hole in the drywall is about 1 1/4 -1.5" diameter. I thought about spraying a bunch of Great Stuff foam in there to lock the thing in place, but this lady is paranoid about out-gassing and fumes of any kind and won't allow it. (See a tend going here?)
Ever run into this situation before, and got any other suggestions?
Thanks.
I never met a tool I didn't like!
Little injection of a "Fomo Fill" (high expansion) type product. Works like a charm.
Don't over do it.
The out-gassing she's worried about has nothing to do with the foam, but I'm pretty sure I smell something sour around that job.
My first thought was foam too.
I thought the foam stopped outgassing within minutes of application, so I checked Dow's web site for Great Stuff and found this.
http://www.dow.com/greatstuff/faq/index.htm#Q4
FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS about the GREAT STUFF family of products
14. Does GREAT STUFF harm the ozone layer? No. All GREAT STUFF products are considered to be Upper Ozone Safe.
That may or may not satisfy her. I don't think I would show her the whole page because she might freak at Number 6.
6. Can I insulate my walls with GREAT STUFF? GREAT STUFF sealant is designed to fill cracks and gaps. It does not cure properly if it is used to fill large voids unless it is put down in layers and allowed to cure before the next layer is applied. Do not use GREAT STUFF to fill enclosed voids such as behind or under tub surrounds.
Another thought if duct tape and tie wire won't do it for her. Pull the shower arm out as far as it will go, push the escutcheon up tight against the wall and put a hose clamp on the shower arm tight against the escutcheon.
Hope the other work pays well and she is reasonable with you, sounds like she is a real piece of work.
Another thought if duct tape and tie wire won't do it for her. Pull the shower arm out as far as it will go, push the escutcheon up tight against the wall and put a hose clamp on the shower arm tight against the escutcheon.
Don't laugh!
I saw a guy do something very similar! He took a hose clamp and put it around the shower arm after he pulled it out as far as it would go. He then covered it up with a box escutcheon from some old cast iron radiator that he put just a dab of clear chaulk to so that it would stay in place!
There you go! Problem solved.
I use one to keep the shower caddy from sloding down the the arm. Works well.
Thanks for the suggestion; I hadn't thought of the hose clamp idea. I don't think she'd be too thrilled with the exposed clamp, but maybe I could hide it with one of the deep-well escutcheons.
And thanks for the links on Geat stuff.
I never met a tool I didn't like!
CAREFULLY enlarge the hole to 1 1/4". Then use one of those pipe insulators around the shower arm. Then shoot some high quality Liquid Nail type stuff in and around it. I've done it and it works fine. I prefer the foam though. Forget the Latex Foam. It never cures hard enough.
Sorry it took me so long to answer. This Alaska trip has got me busy! Yep, I'm doing a house in Alaska this summer! Plumbing and heating!
Ever rip off a plumber? Here is your chance. Buy these $80+ Tub & Shower faucets for a measley 20 bucks plus shipping. Click HERE to rip him off!
Thanks for the advice. I may try the insulator option if she won't let me use the foam.
Alaska? Guess you better be well prepared and stocked up before going up there, huh?
I never met a tool I didn't like!
If she's not into hose clamps, find a local machinist's job shop and have them make you a stainless steel set collar, tapped for a stainless set screw. Clean and permanent.Formerly BEMW at The High Desert Group LLC
84" unless everybody is a midget.
miget is no longer PC, you must use the term "little people"View ImageGo Jayhawks..............Next Year and daaa. Blues View Image
Verticaly challenged?
What's wrong w/ "Runt"???
DonThe GlassMasterworks - If it scratches, I etch it!
Poltical(ly)....
Correct.....
You can't be serious....
Not with a straight face any ways.
Bagdad Bob couldn't pull that one off.
Edited 4/28/2003 10:37:26 AM ET by IMERC
About 4' from the floor and then install a rail and hand shower.
well from all youve said about this customer from hell....I'd nail a pice of 1x3 to the face of the shower wall and wrap some wire around it and the shower head. No problem!
The foam sounds great in IMO.
By the way if ya cant remove a section of wall behind or in front....whats her ingenious idea?
Be a customer that knows everything with no answers
Namaste
Andy
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I'm thinking a big ol barn spike in the wall next to it couple of tie wraps or some duct tape would do the trick?
Joe H