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move interior door 8″ w/ plaster walls

kingre | Posted in General Discussion on April 14, 2005 06:10am

Getting ready to redo kitchen in our 1920 house and would like to move one door opening over about 8″ in order to keep refrig from sticking out in front of door. We would then be able to put cabinets around refrig making it look like a slide-in. It is not a load-bearing wall (parallel to joists). It does have light switch that would be moved, but shouldn’t be that difficult since I can get to wiring in basement. Here are my questions:

– First off, is this something I should tackle? I’m a medium DIYer and can figure most things out.

– How hard would it be to save existing casings to put back up?

– Can I just put in drywall to come out even with existing plaster where necessary? I’ve never fooled with drywall, but would it be that difficult for just 8″ section or so?

Thanks,
Richard

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  1. Piffin | Apr 14, 2005 06:29am | #1

    Probably can dio if moderately skilled and patient with your self

    You can marry sr and plaster. Thicknesss needs to match
    But it is not all that hard to master plaster for a small patch

    flooring at such a move can be the biggest challenge

    When you remove casing, go slow and carefull to pull it off.Sometimes multiple flat bars are good to have. Then pull the preotruding nails through the back of the casing stock insted of driveingthem back into the face where they would splinter wood out.

     

     

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    1. SlimShaving | Apr 14, 2005 04:27pm | #2

      Agree but knife all your joints. (where casing meets wall, Where casing meets jamb ETC.) It will save a lot of chipping when you try and pull it apart. and make it easier to refinishThere are four boxes to be used in defence of liberty: soap, ballot, jury and ammo. Please use in that order - Ed Howdershelt

  2. BryanSayer | Apr 14, 2005 05:48pm | #3

    The tricky part with a plaster wall system is that the frames of opening (door, windows) are generally used as "grounds" for the plaster. That is, the frame is set in place after the lath is installed, and then the plaster is brought out level with the frame. So if you move your door, frame and all, I suggest trying to stick to plaster as the finish, and do it the way it was done when the door went in. That is, rough frame your new opening being sure to support the ends of the lath (I'm assuming you have wood lath) , add lath over the hole you left behind, install the finish door frame, and patch the plaster.

    To remove the door, after following the advice about removing the casing, try and cut the nails of the door frame from the back. A reciprocating saw will usually work, but don't let the blade grab ahold of the lath - you will shake the plaster loose. If that makes you nervous, try a small hack saw like plumbers use, where the blade extends past the end of the handle/frame. Make sure the edge of the finish frame is nice and smooth before applying plaster to the wall, so that your trowel doesn't skip or jump on some obstruction.

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