Howdy all,
First time poster here, there’s sure a lot of information out here and a lot to learn. (I’m always astounded at the variety of answers I get when I ask people how certain things are done, and they all insist that theirs is _the_ only way to do it properly 😉 ).
So I’ll throw this out and see where it goes: I need to move a 50A subpanel about 8′ onto another wall (it’s app. 50′ from the main 100A panel, feeding 2- 20A circuits in the rear of the house). The feed (#6 if I’m not mistaken but I haven’t verified) runs up through an exterior wall, into and through the attic, and back down to the current panel which is mounted, uh-hm, _over_ an old doorway (that’s only one reason I’m moving it). Although I _could_ repulll a full length I suspect it would be more work than if I could splice on another 8 or so feet (in a j-box of course) but no one I’ve talked has any experience with this, yet… I don’t consider wire nuts to be a viable option here, what about acorn connectors? Or is there a particular type of fitting/ splice to use (or twist, tape and solder)? Also is a large capacity j-box the best and/ or only way to house this splice?
Ideas, suggestions, etc. appreciated.
Replies
Split bolt connectors and heat shrink insulation, caps or sleeves, depending on which way you hook the wires together. In an accessible box.
First the panel. In my experience it is often better to convert the panel to a junction box than take the time to rip out what you have, fit a new junction box to the existing conduit and reinstall the old panel in a new location.
A new 50A panel is cheap and a new panel can allow you so get a more modern unit, eliminate obsolete or unreliable breaker brands or match another panel to maintain consistency or use spare breakers you have.
If the panel you wish to move uses one of the better breaker designs like 'Square D, QO', Cutler Hammer or Siemens get a new 50A panel that will take these breakers to save some money. Unless the breakers seem 'soft' or worn. In which case it is better to replace the breakers.
To convert the panel to a junction box you just remove the guts and screw the door closed. It is sometimes good to maintain the ground bar. You can then run conduit/s to the new panel location. One conduit for the feed and perhaps, depending on how hard it is to drop the old circuits into the new panel, a second conduit to take the extensions on the circuits fed to get them into the new panel location. Perhaps a little of both. Sometimes the panel can be flipped to be accessible from the opposite side of the wall. Sometimes not.
If you absolutely have to move the panel. Like if a wall is being run into that location or the area is being converted into a shower. It is often better to pull the feed, install a connector and continue the conduit. Repulling a feed once the conduit is hooked up is no big deal. It eliminates the need for a splice, junction box or conversion of the panel and any intrusion into the space for access.
OK, your not going for my suggestions. Splice the feed with a set of 'IT-4's
http://www.aplussupply.com/nsipolaris/bug-bite.htm
There are similar units made by other manufacturers. I have used the Polaris brand and found them to be reliable but not exceptional. Assuming your working with copper conductors it is as simple as making sure the bare copper conductor is clean and the proper length, inserting it into the connector, tightening the set screw with an Allen key and reinserting a plug to insulate the screw.
With aluminum conductors rough cleaning, wire brushing with an anti-oxidant and a reapplication of the compound is required. Also more care has to be used in tightening the connector. If your not familiar with them use a torque wrench. Most electricians will do it by feel. Your call.
These preinsulated connectors save a lot of time and trouble. A good quality wire nut well applied and sized to handle the conductor size are fine. Quick too.
Split bolts are a proven solution but you have to insulate them. A bit of an art form and time consuming to get it right. Ideally you use insulating putty to fill the voids, linerless rubber tape to build up over the sharp edges and round the assembly and a good quality electrical tape, like '3M Super 33' to insulate the bug.
Take care and varied patterns to evenly cover the bug with at least three layers of tape pulled tight without wrinkles and without any finger contact with the adhesive. The end is allowed to relax and then smoothed down. If there is a good chance the connection will be exposed to any edges or abrasion a few layers of friction tape is layered on evenly.
There are also a selection of connectors which to apply like the Polaris connector but which you either use an included a heat-shrink sleeve or you wrap with tape to insulate them. These are good but still more trouble than the preinsulated connectors.
Thanks for all the info. Yes, the sp unit has to be moved (wall being demo'd) and I was expecting to buy a new flush-mount unit. All copper, btw. No conduit as this is in an unfinished attic but I believe I follow you, pull the feed up, splice in a jbox since there's no conduit (with the recommended IT-4's, or eq), and move along. Sound right? Thx again, lots of good thoughts and information, much appreciated.