I recently purchased an “old” (for the west coast) home with a detached one car garage / shop. My wife would like to add on to our kitchen but to complete said addition we need to move our 12’x20′ garage to the back of our 50′ x 100′ lot. I’ve thought through it a bit and came up with the following plan which I’ll submit for comment. Just keep in mind that I’m an amateur on a budget…
1) poor new slab/foundation behind existing location.
2) square up and level out garage, cutting sill plate from slab if necessary to make adjustments
3) Install interior bracing to consist of beams made from built up 2x12s or 4×12 material. These beams are to be installed within 3 ft of the ground and perpendicular to the studs. They are to be attached with 2, 3/8 lag bolts at every other stud. A second tier of short beams are to be attached below the first tier a few feet from each corner at 45 degree angles to each wall. These will serve to help keep everything square and serve as the connection point between the garage and the jacks.
4) complete separation of sill plate from slab.
5) set 12 ton bottle jacks at each corner and slowly raise garage.
6) remove old sill plate and install new pressure treated sill plate
7) set 4-5 steel rollers spanning the width of the garage on the slab and lower garage to sit on rollers
8) attach heavy duty tow hooks to frame of garage (at the rear corners)
9) attach cable or chain to tow hooks and connect to come-along anchored to concrete filled 6″ steel post at fence line.
10) slowly pull garage into place with come-along
11) when garage is in position, reset jacks and raise garage to allow for removal of rollers and installation of bolts in foundation to attach to sill plate.
I’ll also be running power, re-roofing, insulating and weatherproofing the garage. Any advice or comments is greatly appreciated, especially in regards to how to properly brace the garage for jacking and moving and how to keep it in line as I pull it into position.
Thanks!
Gossett
Replies
I hope the garage doesn't pick up speed on you. Would be a lot of momentum to try to corral.
http://grungefm.com
First, you really need to asses how much the framing will cost because you plan to replace just about everything else on the structure.
That said, I would contact a housemoving company and see what their price is. If you drop it, you eat it. If they drop it, it is insured.
Another alternative is a crane.
There are a couple things that seem like potential problems to me-
I don't think the lag bolts are going to be enough. I would use some sort of simpson tie and a lot of nails and simpson screws. Lag bolts are just not that hard to shear off. Through bolting would be another good way to do it.
Your tow hooks should be connected to that beam directly. Like with a long steel plate that comes through the wall, and is bolted to the beams along either side.
The 6" post is going to have to be sunk quite a ways down- The concrete inside of it isn't doing much for you unless you have enough force to crush the pipe, and that's unlikely. A round tube isn't a very good shape to resist pullout through the soil, you'd be better off with a buried steel plate or box, with a cable or rod attached through the soil. Or, don't use a come along, and use a 4x4 truck with low range, or a small excavator or tractor.
But really, I think you'd be better off building a new garage. Do you know that you could frame a new one in 2 or 3 days? You could even reuse most of the wood if you wanted.
Building a new one, you'll have a lot less unexpected hangups to deal with, and you'll probably end up with a better structure anyway.
zak
"so it goes"
Moved a small garage (9 ft by 15 ft, more of a shed, but used to store a '92 Toyaota while son was in Japan so I'll call it a garage) myself 500 feet. Simply removed nuts off foundation bolts, put 2 ea 4x10 under the top plates 32 inches apart and nailed to the adjacet studs.
Drove small track loader (JD440) inside, raised bucket under the 4x10s, and drove it away, set it down in farther in the back. If you have a 3/4 ton truck, you could probably jack the garage up from the bed of the truck and drive it away!.
drive the truck in ...
let all air outta tires.
frame as necessary ... tight to the truck bed ...
inflate tires.
if they don't explode ... drive away!
Jeff Buck Construction
Artistry In Carpentry
Pittsburgh Pa
When I built my new 24x40 garage I first had to get rid of the old 12x24 garage. I found a local company that buys and sells garages (actually, I basically gave the old garage away, but it saved me the trouble and expense of tearing it down and hauling away the debris.) They lag bolted a 2x12 stringer to each long side of the garage, and then put in some 2x12s spanning from one side to the other. The crossmembers were bolted to the studs, with their top edges butted up against the bottom of the stringers. There was no diagonal bracing as far as I can remember. They then unbolted the plates from the slab, jacked it up, backed a flatbed truck inside, let the garage back down on the back of the truck, and drove it away. They did wait until around 2am to avoid traffic. I don't recall the exact bolt pattern but I know they did use lags, nothing penetrated through to the outside of the garage walls. If they were able to carry the thing 20 miles down the highway that way, I'd guess you could move yours 100 feet.
A funny aside to the story -- a couple days after it was hauled away, I was chatting with a guy who lives down the block. The night they removed the garage, he had just returned home after a hard night at the bars. He was sitting on the living room couch, trying to sober up enough to go to bed, when he looked out the window and saw my garage driving by...he thought he was hallucinating. :-)
get your new slab ready
get an old air hockey table... turn it upsidedown centered in the garage ...game surface down
run a few 2x12 side to side of the old garage... use some 2x4 scraps across the studs on top of the 2x12's (that way no nail holes in the 2x12s and you'll be able to return them for a full refund at home depot )but down tight to the top (was the btm) of the airhockey table... once these are secured power up the table... it will now float the whole garage off the ground.... you'll be able to move it into postion with just your finger tips... once in exact position desired, unplug the power it will drop into place.. this should be a 30 min job tops...
post some pics
p
I think you can see from the tone of many of the responses that this isn't a very big deal. These things just don't weigh that much. So, yea, your plan will definately work, but feels kinda like overkill. Just make sure you have brakes if there's any kind of slope!