Must be my week! First needed a concuit & wire stretcher for the line going to my well house, now it’s the electric range.
220 outlet is about 6 inches too high on wall. Plug gets in way of range and leaves too big a gap behind range. Supply line comes down wall from ceiling. Obviously no slack. I would move the outlet box down & to the right, total distance about a foot.
Questions:
1) can I even splice a 50 Amp range supply line?
2) If yes to 1), can I use the existing outlet box as the J Box?
3) What do you splice #6 wire with? Bought a direct burial splice kit today for my well house line. Looks like it would give good electrical contact for a reliable splice. Don’t like the idea of wire nuts on such a large wire.
As usual, thanks!
Don
The GlassMasterworks – If it scratches, I etch it!
Replies
Nice thing about electricity is that it's flexible. I have the problem of a plumber with no sense of the result bringing a gas line through the floor that keeps me from moving the range close enough to the wall. Seems that you could juncture into an existing box to bring the outlet lower, but I don't understand question #3. Why is six gauge wire a factor with the range? Oh, I get it, you've combined two problems. There are splicing blocks for heavy gauge wire available at most hardware and big box stores.
<<Supply line comes down wall from ceiling. Obviously no slack.>>
This is an exposed cable?
You've been to the source (panel) and followed the cable? Even the most frugal (cheap) electrician would leave SOME slack in the line that you could pick up to move the box 6". I've been able to move no slack boxes downward by moving the cable one stud bay closer to the panel. You could also open the panel and see how much slack was left inside. I've seen wire looped from top entry to the bottom of the panel and then back up to the middle before connecting to the breaker.
Ralph: Wire has absolutely no slack, anywhere. I watched electrician run the cable. It runs through a space that has no access for a human being, but does have it for a snake or maybe a skinny ferrett. If ever it has to be replaced. the old line will have to be abandoned in place & a new one run somewhere else.Moving it a bay sounds great; I like that idea - but; the wall is an ICF & the wallboard would have to be cut open & a new trench cut in the foam, etc. Also has a cabinet across the path that would have to be removed & reinstalled. Might be a better solution than a splice in a very heavy amp carrying cable. Hadn't thought of that solution. Kinda crazy that I hadn't, since if I move box, it will go laterally one foot closer to panel for better spacing of "stuff" under the range - like the downdraft vent duct. (This is a Jenair freestanding.) This might be the best solution, even though causing extra work on wallboard. That wallboard will be covered by a tiled backsplash when the job is completed, anyway. Panel is a 40 breaker box w/ every slot but 2 filled. No slack in there. Cable is fastened in all the most inaccessible places, so cannot be pulled through staples.I lean toward getting a direct burial splice kit if it is legal under code. Like the ability to tighten down the set screws for better contact; also has shrinkwrap for insulation, which I think beats split bolts & rubber tape any day.Thanks for making me think. I thought I'd examined all the solutions, but left out the obvious.DonThe GlassMasterworks - If it scratches, I etch it!
One think that you might look at tis the orientation of the receptacle and thus plug.
I had one there I had to rotate it 90 degrees and then the stove would go in place.
The common way to splice wires like that is with a split bolt. But they take lots of tape to insulate.
You can also get several kinds of devices that have holes that you put the wires in and then a setscrew to clamp them down. Some of those are pre-insultated. You will need to go to an electrical supply house to find.
Bill: You are telling me it is legal to do under code????Thanks.DonThe GlassMasterworks - If it scratches, I etch it!
I am not sure what IT is? I tried channeling Clinton, but he is busy <G>.But the circuit can be spliced like anyother one. Just needs to be in an accessible box.
put your new box where you need it run wire from it to the old box , splice it in the old box with twisted wires and wire nuts, put a blank cover over old box,put receptical in new box,plug in range ,you be done...
Why aren't you letting the electrician solve this problem?
If it's the recess distance that's causing the problem what's chances of just moving the box deeper in the wall at same location?