Replies

1. 
   joeh | Apr 24, 2008 06:13am | #1

   You got it, silver solder would be better.

   Joe H

2. 
   tb1472000 | Apr 26, 2008 02:03am | #2

   Venting refrigerant to the atmosphere is illegal.  If caught, the fine is several thousand dollars.   Oops, missed that you know this.

   You might be able to evacuate into the condenser depending on the condenser and length of lines.  Otherwise, you need some special equipment to do it.   If you have the proper equipment and knowledge, you could do it.

   To put it back together requires additional special equipment.  If you have the know how, gauges, vacuum pump, micron gauge, and refrigerant, you could do it.  If you don't know what you are doing, you could hurt yourself or the equipment.

   
   

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   Edited 4/25/2008 7:07 pm ET by tb1472000

3. 
   peteshlagor | Apr 26, 2008 02:48am | #3

   I'd shop the price.  I had mine moved for less.

    

4. 
   junkhound | Apr 26, 2008 03:58am | #4

   Pretty much what tb said. You also asked what you are missing - you are missing a LOT! 

   I've done it DIY, but only after the trouble of taking the EPA test to get a license for R22 use and buying (or already having) over $1000 worth of equipment, including some tb didn't list that is needed.  .

   Ya should braze with silphos, ya better know about line slope for oil control, have N2 for tubing fill while brazing, etc.. etc..

   It is NOT just "sweat new copper"

   If you want to invest the time to learn, read the ARI publication "Refrigeration and Air conditioning" to become knowledgable, then you will have somewhat of an idea of what to do and the equipment you will need - most librarys should have that large book.  The old "Trane air conditioning manual" is also a good source of info, although the original includes now illegal methods.   

   If you will NEVER hire out refrigeration work, have been told that a web obtainable 609 EPA refrigerant license (vs. much more difficult  608) will let you get R-22 from some suppliers after you have all the other equipment.

   Have no idea of your resources or capabilities, but some of the suggestions to shop the price may be the way to go. 

   I'm as cheap as they come, but $400 sounds like a low price to me for what you listed, as a new base is likely needed, better be sure a new filter/drier is used, etc..

   Did a similar job (moved fromone side of the house to the other) for a neighbor AT COST and it was over $200 in just materials 3 years ago!!!  That material cost would be over $400 alone due to increases in Copper prices (50 ft new line runs and 6 AWG wire)

   BTW: If you have a scroll compressor, DO NOT try to evac the system using the system compressor, you will pull a low enough pressure in the compressor that the 240 Vac winding will arc over to the case and then you have trashed the compressor.

   
   

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   Edited 4/25/2008 9:01 pm ET by junkhound

1. 
   brownbagg | Apr 26, 2008 04:51am | #5

   I use an old refrigerator compressor to suck mine down.

1. 
   junkhound | Apr 26, 2008 05:14am | #6

   Used to do that also in the old days (pre-1992) when you could get most the air out of a system with a refrigerator compressor, then blow in freon, then pump the whole mess back to the atmosphere 2 or 3 times before it was illegal. 

   Most refrigerator compressors wont pump down to much below a few Torr, which leaves a lot of water in the system that can freeze and jam orifices or TXVs.  To get water out of some of the synthetic oils takes below 200 microns ( for those unfamiliar with terminology, 1000 microns per Torr, 760 Torr per atmosphere, 1 Torr = 1mm Hg pressure, 760 mm Hg = 29.9 inches of Hg which is the barometric pressure the weatherman talks about) and then some oils still wont leave without heat.

   Still have an old refrigerator compressor with SAE connections for a recovery system though.

2. 
   pwn2002 | Apr 26, 2008 03:08pm | #8

   thanks for the reply.  i clearly underestimated what is involved. 

1. 
   junkhound | Apr 26, 2008 04:11pm | #9

   Perhaps a good approach would be to post your geographic location on hvac-talk.com and ask for recomendations of folks in your area after describing the task. Can just about guarantee that one of the comments will be 'your system will only be as good as the quality of the installation'/move of the equipment, which is true.

   Do NOT say anything about DIY on hvac-talk.com, some folks there are paranoid about diy, but will offer good advice on finding a competent technician for the type of work you need done.

   BTW, it would be a good idea to click on your name here in BT and add a few details to your profile, prices, etc. can vary widely across the country and world. (as in - if you were just a few miles from me, I'd likely come over when I have time available and show you how for cost of materials as a welcome to a newer BT member).

   PS: I've been out of town on business a few days every week for the last 2 months, so I hope, after saying the above,  you are not nearby in PNW  <G>  

5. 
   danski0224 | Apr 26, 2008 01:59pm | #7

   The price you quoted seems awful low for a properly done job... unless your HVAC guy is a sidejobber working with "borrowed" and/or leftover materials.

   You need over $1000 worth of tools (and the knowledge to use them) to do that job correctly.