Replies

1. 
   NickNukeEm | Oct 30, 2004 03:13pm | #1

   Didn't know there was a cordless model.  Checked out feinus.com, found it, with a msrp of $457.  Granted, there will be street discounts, but even with them that's a huge chunk of change.

   I never met a tool I didn't like!
2. 
   hammer1 | Oct 30, 2004 05:40pm | #2

   If you don't mind my asking, what do you use the Multimaster for and which blades work for you. I have the flush cut hardwood blade. I often have to cut out a section of baseboard that is in place or cut back clapboards for repair or additions. At $56 a blade I'm hoping they have something that can do a better job. I find it rather difficult to cut my stock without cutting into the drywall or sheathing. I also cannot get down tight to the floor. Of course if the piece moves at all, the blade won't cut. Any experience with the new "M" blades or the "e" cuts? Sorry if I'm hijacking but I'm not getting the use out of the tool I hoped for. I was hoping someone with successful results could give some tips.

   Beat it to fit / Paint it to match

1. 
   NickNukeEm | Oct 30, 2004 06:55pm | #3

   Get an E blade.  I have all sizes, but the largest one seems to work the best for me.  That's what I use in it the most.  Not cheap, but with the offset blade, you can install it either way and rotate it so you should be able to cut just about anything with little to no interference.  It has saved my bacon numerous times, making a potential 2 hour trim job into 10 minutes.  If you still find you're not getting the use out of it, I'll buy it from you, I wouldn't mind having one in my shop.

   I never did find a use for the blade that came with it, seemed a little whimpy to me.

   I never met a tool I didn't like!

2. 
   Paulgern | Oct 30, 2004 08:34pm | #4

   if i am cutting against a material i do not want to damage i use the segmented blade otherwise i use the E blades. i bought it for sanding but use it more often for cutting, replacing flooring, shortening casing, removing a section of trim, all the typical places where something has to change and it used to be chisel hammer grunt time. someone posted a note about blades available at ebay. i got several at half the price coastal charges and they are really good. you might email the seller and ask if he has more. [email protected]. good luck. paul.

   at 475 i think i'll keep running a cord.

3. 
   butch | Oct 30, 2004 11:16pm | #5

   ck. out this link to ebay, this guy sells the narrow and wide blade for 26.00 including

   shipping, I've already received one and the blade is superior to the fein blade.

   There is another poster here that bought one also, but I never heard if he liked them

   or not, I believe it was bucksnort billy

   http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=20797&item=4321412093&rd=1&ssPageName=WDVW

    

1. 
   Snort | Nov 01, 2004 06:09pm | #11

   If I'm not mistaken, Paulg's source and yours are one in the same. Very big aggressive blade...so big, in fact, it won't fit in the case when it's on the multimaster! Eblade styles are the way to go... Don't worry, we can fix that later!

4. 
   calvin | Oct 31, 2004 12:16am | #6

   Man, I wish I had the time to post some use pictures, this tool is the tits.

   An offset flat blade (scraper) usually comes in the kit.  Cutting out old glazing from sash.  Scraping almost anything.  Cutting the old caulk from the brick to metal (or wood) juncture when swapping out windows. 

   E-blade (and now i've heard they have one more "metal" friendly.  Have no idea of cost or name, feinusa emailed me it is available.  I have the narrower of the eblades.  Easier for me to enter cuts when removing pcs. of base,shoe,crown etc.  Also use the e-blade to cut out pcs of flooring for replacement.

   Diamond circular blade, removing grout, cutting plaster etc........

   The round and half round blades they include in the kit are pretty wimpy, but are useful on occasion.  Only repurchased once.

   The sander makes swirls easily until you go up in paper grit.  Turning the pad sideways and running the tool pointing perpendicular to the grain, but moving with the grain works well.  Can sand right up to something finished.

   Undercutting casings.Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.

   Quittin' Time

1. 
   Paulgern | Oct 31, 2004 06:13am | #7

   calvin try the ebay guy. i got one of the metal blades from him and it works good.paul

2. 
   Fonzie | Nov 01, 2004 06:20am | #8

   I really like this tool too and haven't had it too long - never tried it for cutting trim yet.  I'll check out this blade source.

   I just wanted to mention I have had good success cutting out my own sandpaper triangles with a razor knife (no hole needed, wrench will easily punch to adjust), cleaning the rubber plate with lighter fluid, then denatured alcohol,  then spraying both the plate and the sandpaper back with 3 M spray adhesive.  I use a pretty good quality sandpaper, a lot of 220.  This helps me have a more destructive attitude with the sandpaper. 

1. 
   calvin | Nov 01, 2004 01:25pm | #9

   fonzie, have you given thought to buying hook/loop discs and cutting your triangles from that?Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.

   Quittin' Time

1. 
   Fonzie | Nov 01, 2004 03:26pm | #10

   No, but that sounds good.  Do you just buy a stick-on base sheet then the loop sandpaper in sheets? 

   One other question: I thought one reason this thing was working so good is that the sandpaper is so firmly planted (along with the tool being fairly weighty) that the surface has no choice but to respond.  Will I get that same effect with the hook and loop?

2. 
   calvin | Nov 02, 2004 02:21am | #12

   fonze, my multimaster's pad is (came that way) hook/loop.  I assumed your's was as well.  The pad feels pretty smooth, but it is H/L.  I got the kit a couple years ago, thought they were all the same.  The paper responds well as H/L...........gives you the option of changing grit when necessary w/o sacrificing that paper.Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.

   Quittin' Time

3. 
   cynwyd | Nov 02, 2004 02:53am | #13

   Sources of paper for Multimaster.

   You can get 7 triangles out of an 8" disc. I buy either H&L or PSA discs. You can also get 1/2 sheet H&L from Industrial Abrasives in Reading PA. The scraps from cutting triangles are nice because the flocking on the back is comfortable to hold. When the hooks wear off the pad run the remainder against fresh paper and use it for PSA with the occasional help of disc adhesive.

   I need to try the e blades, the ones I've tried are inadequate.

4. 
   calvin | Nov 02, 2004 04:14am | #14

   Here's one very nice thing you can do with an e blade.  Cut and tooth a wood floor patch.

   Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.

   Quittin' Time

   Edited 11/2/2004 5:38 am ET by calvin

5. 
   cynwyd | Nov 02, 2004 06:04am | #15

   looks good, just did this by hand