No, this isn’t actually a personal problem.
Turned the a/c on for the first time this summer. The a/c is running outside but the blower won’t run. It will however turn on when I kick it to heat.
Any thoughts? Where should I look first? I would like to have a/c tonight if possible.
Joe
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Replies
That sucks, will it run on the continuous setting?
how old is your unit?
i'm going to go with 15 +
so the inside fan isn't running when the fan is on
like already said if you flip to manuel fan does it run?
i would first take a shot at replacing the fan relay switch. pretty cheap and easy. most are a little 1.5"x2" relay with maybe 5 wires going to it. make sure to make a diagram of the wires.
your fan does run on a higher speed than the furnace. you might check the wiring to the fan and see if your getting juice to it while it's turned to air cond. if it is getting 120v to it the fans bad.
YOU ONLY NEED TWO TOOLS IN LIFE - WD-40 AND DUCT TAPE. IF IT DOESN'T
MOVE AND SHOULD, USE THE WD-40. IF IT SHOULDN'T MOVE AND DOES, USE THE
DUCT TAPE.
Unit is over 20 yrs old, at least. Time for a new one, but not going to happen tonight. I just want some cool, dry air in the house.
No blower from either Auto or On settings on the thermostat
Thermostat works to turn the heat on if I change the settings to fit that scenario. Blower kicks on as well.
Changed the fan limit switch since last time I ran A/C. Could it be the settings on the switch? Miswired?
i don't think that the limit switch is in play at all when the air is on.did it work fine when you were running furnace?
so the fan blows when heats on,so capacitor on fan should be good.
thermostat should be ok ,as it is turning the outside unit on.
i'm back to the fan relay or the high speed on the fan is out. i have never hit one speed of fan out and not the other. so i'm back to the fan relay is not kicking in the fan on high speed.
here are some relays.
http://americanhvacparts.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=r-furnace
just for grins and giggles if you find the relay ,you might give it a little tap to see what happens.YOU ONLY NEED TWO TOOLS IN LIFE - WD-40 AND DUCT TAPE. IF IT DOESN'TMOVE AND SHOULD, USE THE WD-40. IF IT SHOULDN'T MOVE AND DOES, USE THEDUCT TAPE.
heres a relay that i hit quite often. if you look down about middle of the page it will tell you what the 5 terminals do.
http://americanhvacparts.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=REL90370&Category_Code=r-furnaceYOU ONLY NEED TWO TOOLS IN LIFE - WD-40 AND DUCT TAPE. IF IT DOESN'TMOVE AND SHOULD, USE THE WD-40. IF IT SHOULDN'T MOVE AND DOES, USE THEDUCT TAPE.
"heres a relay that i hit quite often. i"So that company will just allow you to come in and hit their relay!And what good does that do?.
William the Geezer, the sequel to Billy the Kid - Shoe
bill ,just read boats reply. i'm telling you theres nothing like a bfh to fix things.
i should add that to my signature line.YOU ONLY NEED TWO TOOLS IN LIFE - WD-40 AND DUCT TAPE. IF IT DOESN'TMOVE AND SHOULD, USE THE WD-40. IF IT SHOULDN'T MOVE AND DOES, USE THEDUCT TAPE.
Is there a condensate pump?http://www.tvwsolar.com
Now I wish I could give Brother Bill his great thrill
I would set him in chains at the top of the hill
Then send out for some pillars and Cecil B. DeMille
He could die happily ever after"
Not sure.
Had the HVAC guy in today. The furnace is probably 25 yrs old, maybe older. The fan relay is ancient. The wiring is suspect and appears to be a work around. He was able to set the blower to run constantly, so we have air.
The blower actually just started wining. All said and done, we're going to get a new furnace.
thanks everyone
i know i'm odd man out on this,but i wouldn't trade your old furnace for a new even up as long as the chamber isn't cracked.
a old furnace is so simple compared to the new ones,i hate em. what i can gain in efficentcy i lose in cost of repairs.YOU ONLY NEED TWO TOOLS IN LIFE - WD-40 AND DUCT TAPE. IF IT DOESN'TMOVE AND SHOULD, USE THE WD-40. IF IT SHOULDN'T MOVE AND DOES, USE THEDUCT TAPE.
I like your thinking and normally I agree. The chamber is good and it heats up well, but we have had some costs associated with it over the past few years. I think it's time to put ol' bessy out to pasture. She's had plenty o' good days.
But seriously, the wiring is suspect, it's huge, noisy, messy, the filter is a bear to change, the humidifier is difficult at best and I could go on.
I agree with Larry's troubleshooting on the fan relay (or fan control board).
To fix with out replacing is the big hammer method. A few sharp raps to the relay or the black square boxes on the cb board might free up the relay.
You can also hack it to make it work by jumpering the white and yellow controll wires, and then shutting fuel off to furnace.
Need more info as to what you've got to get deeper into it.
Do you have the type of thermostat (usually Honeywell, like VisionPro) where the face part of the unit 'plugs' into the base part of the unit? If you've changed the battery since last season pull the face part of the unit off and make sure that none of the (fragile!) metal pins are bent (and therefore not inserted into their sockets).
If you have an 'old-fasioned' thermostat it's not that.
Also, is this an attic-mounted unit? I usually design such units (pretty common) to have a float switch on the edge of the condensate pan that shuts down if water fills the pan. But if you have one, a float switch can also be jammed in the 'up' position.
Jeff
Edited 6/19/2009 12:10 am ET by Jeff_Clarke
Wouldn't the float switch more typically be used to cut the whole AC system, both compressor and the air handler fan..
William the Geezer, the sequel to Billy the Kid - Shoe
Depends on how it's wired.
BTW the 'bent pin on the tstat' scenario happened to me last summer.
Jeff
>Wouldn't the float switch more typically be used to cut the whole AC system, both compressor and the air handler fan.<
Of the few I've had to fiddle with they only disbale the compressor and allow the AH fan to run.
one case: arrive at MILs in FL to see water dripping from the eave (backup drain for attic unit). I asked them if they found it odd that they now have water dripping from the eave. No but it's a great place to put plants now so we don't have to water them all the time. Dipshi....s (MIL & her BF are mechanical idiots and he worked early nuke subs in the navy, so much for thinking he had a clue). The drip pan under the AHU was full of water and nearly overlfowing due to out of level issues and the main drain was clogged with mineral/dirt/scale deposits. Still gets me that they never ever thought something was wrong with water dripping from the eave.
John,
You can disable a single component with a NC switch (typical of a float switch) but it takes some above average understanding of the system and I see no reason for it.
The simple installation is wired in series with the other safeties and breaks continuity to the 24v control transformer.
Much easier to diagnose in that configuration IMO.
Of coarse, like you stated it gets wired just to the condenser some times, but from a maintenance point of view I would rather it shut down everything.
High speed of the fan isn't kicking in is my guess. Maybe that is a motor problem. Assume the fan 'on' will also kick the fan into 'high gear', so this may be the problem. You could change the wires, but then you are trying to cool on low speeds ... which doesn't work very well ... supply temp say 45 degF (burrrr) and space temps that may be e.g. 80 deg on average ... not enough umph to mix the air in the room (unless you are lucky enough to have ceiling registers which will help a little, but then the cold air just dumps ... then turn on the ceiling fans (if you have them).