Hi
Have been viewing this site for some time as I am very interested in home building and now I can contribute something that some may find interesting (maybe…….lol). I finally started building my own home, acting as the GC and also doing some of the work myself and have been keeping a photo record of it so will post some here as progress is made on the project. The progress should be very noticeable when the pros are on the job cuz of their speed but you should be able to tell when the want-a-be carpenters are working cuz you may not notice a lot of difference in the pics from day to day. Anyway thanks for looking…..
Derrick
Edited 8/15/2004 12:02 am ET by Derrick
Replies
So far so good........Day 3 (aug-05-04)
day 4........
Hey Derick, thanks for sharing and keep em coming.
How about some more details, like how many square ft., and what kind of building
experience do you have. What do you plan on doing and what are you going to sub
out? Also when you have any problems, and trust me you will, come here with
them and you will be surprised at the wealth of info that is available.
Get some close ups of some of the building details like
rebar placement in your footing steps (I know it's to late know, but just for an
example) You'll appreciate the pictures later on when you try to remember how
something was done later on
Derrick , Looks great so far . Keep us informed. I would like to see the proggress.
Hello Butch and Bean
thanks for looking, well the house is 32'x52' with 30'x30' garage and a foyer(8.5' x 20') . The basement is 4' cement wall and 4'-2x6 stud wall. also basement is walk out in the back as the lot lends its self easily to this design. Anyway here are a few more pics with the forms removed. I hope I am geting better at pic posting, I think he first few were a little to small, then I made them so big that I could not even post them but now I think I have it........
Take Care
Derrick
Edited 8/15/2004 8:41 am ET by Derrick
Looks like you are ready for the foundation drainage system. Also looks like you are going to have a masonry veneer - is that on all sides? What area are you building the house in? (State/Providence)
The trick in GCing a house is to try to get as a seamless transition between subs as possible. In other words, get every sub to fully finish his job before he leaves (don't pay all until all is done and inspections are signed off), and try to set up the scope of work for each sub so little things won't get left. Here is a little example: Was building a house with a sewage ejection pump. Plumber said - not my job to hook up the float switch - that's electrical. Electrician said - not my job to hook up switch - that is low voltage so the plumber should hook it up... You can guess who ended up doing it - well, not actually me, but one of my punch-out guys. That was fine, but what about later, after the home owner moved in and the float switch had to be adjusted :-( Also, if you have to hold back money because something isn't completed - make it a significant amount. This also means that you have to have everything on site for a sub to do his job - or at least the materials that he is not responsible for supplying. Otherwise, all your time will be eaten up by fixing little things that were left and you won't have as much time as you wanted to peform the phases of construction you already have decided to do.
Keep the pics comming.... Matt
Hi DIRISHINME
Understand way u thought brick veneer now, cuz of the 2x4 in the top af foundation wall. But that is just the way most contractors do it here.
They attach a 2x4 on its flat to the top of the forms plus still put in anchor bolts. don't know why they use both ways. I have only seen the use of one or the other but whatever works best for him I guess as the foundation is as straight as an arrow so I am happy.
Derrick
Glad things are going smoothly thus far. A good foundation, sets things up for smooth sailing later. Personally, I'd check it with a laser and a tape though...
Re what I thought was brick veneer, I thought I saw a brick ledge on at least a few of the foundation wall sections... Matt
Well got a few more pix, not alot has really changed but have started to back fill the inside and compact it, We finished doing that today but have not taken any pix yet.
Hopefully will get the basement and garage floor in next week but still some work to do yet before that happens such as install the isulation sheets, wire mesh and the pex for the infloor plus some plumbing.
I hope one more week of this and then can start framing :-)
Derrick
Anyone here have any install exp. with 1/2 inch pex heating. Heard all sorts of ideas on what the O.C. should be. Plumber is going to run a program that he has but just wondering what your ideas would be.
Derrick
Well not alot has changed since last friday but did manage to get out today and dig some footings. We could not install them at the same time as the rest because the foundation walls are stepped down and towards the back of the house the footings would be 4 feet thick.
And I have finally got my truck in the garage out of the weather.... :-)
Derrick
Normally we use 5/8" at about 18" OC. mor eflow through the 5/8" so you can use longer runs - up to maybe 250' whereas with 1/2" you only run 180 to 200 feet long each.
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
Hello piffin
Thanks for the advice on the pex.
From what I have read on some pex manufacturers sites is loops of no more than 300' for 1/2" and 500' for 3/4". Have to check this out with the plumber (if he ever shows up......:-)). But I guess a plumber who is very busy is a good sign of his work. actully he is just down the street plumbing up a 7500 sq. ft. house so he may be along soon.
And yes you r right it is the east coast of Canada an hour from Maine border.
Derrick
Your plumber has the right idea about running a program. You really need to do a heat loss calculation to decide on tube size, spacing, and loop length. Also important to know what kind of installation...in-slab, gypcrete, staple up, plates or no plates, type of heatsource (boiler or water heater), etc.
That being said, the rule of thumb is 250 ft max per loop for 1/2" PEX, and you should get a 10* to 20* drop in temp from supply to return. If a zone will take more than 250 feet, use two or more loops to the zone.
Nice pictures! As you get further towards moving in, I hope you still have time for the camera. I started a house about a year ago subbing excavation to dry-in and everything else myself. Pex still dangling in the boiler room, but the maple floor is down in the kitchen, 1/3 of the siding is up, move in date estimate now is September 25.
Hi johnnyd
Thanks for the advice on the pex and yes the plumber has talked about a heat loss calc. I hope he shows up and does it soon...........lol.
The insulation I plan on is the BiB system.
A year ago, Hmm I am hoping to be in by Xmas but at the current speed it may be Xmas 05.......gez I hope not as my banker will be a little POed at me.
Derrick
Edited 8/24/2004 8:30 pm ET by Derrick
Being as you're fairly new, and building your own house -
I just can't resist directing you to the Spec House from Hell thread.
(-:Our family once had a dog that was a mix of Pit Bull and collie. After it tore your arm off, it would go for help.
Hi there Boss
Your story was a great read and hope my project goes a little better. So far it is looking good but just a little slow thats all and some of that is my fault as my job is the "on call" type of work and the pager always goes of just when I drive out to the lot to do some work. If I do not go out to do any work no one pages me.............lol
I am not planning on selling the house when I am finished (at least I don't think I am) as I love the area and consider it a one of a kind location. But who knows...
So far there have been a couple of areas where I went over budget but I was under budget in some stuff earlier so I think it will even out and who knows I may be the first person in history to complete under budget( yeah right). Anyhow I expected to be over on some things due to the fact that there would be some unforseen things turn up so I have tried to save some money when I can so long as I am getting the same quality/value. This way it kind of offsets the times when I go over budget due to unforseen reasons.
Hope things have been going better for you lately Boss.
Derrick
hello............have been away for awhile but house coming along slow but sure radiant floor is finshed in basement and started framing today. would post some pix but cannot seem to get "attach files " button to work..........any ideas
Thanks
Derrick
Try a different browser.
Are you using Internet Explorer? If so, click on:
Help --> About Internet Explorer
This will give you your version number. Make sure it is 6.something. If it isn't, you can update it free from Microsoft.jt8
ok got it sorted out.......was norton that was not letting me attach files..........so i am back in business.....
here are some pix with the insulation and wire mesh down. There is also rebar in the interior footings. the footings are been poured with the floor cuz if they would of been poured with the wall footing they would be about 4 feet thick for the center load bearing wall as it ran towards to back of the house due to foundation been stepped down due to slopping lot and fact that basement is wake-out at the rear so fondation guy said this would be the way to go. So since he has been doing this for 30years without to many (maybe none) call backs I think it was very good advice.
Thanks for looking
Derrick
Call the trucks in! So far so good.
How many inches of extruded polystyrene did you put down?jt8
Hi John
I put down 1 1/2 inches, was going to put down 1 inch but building supply guy said that the 1 inch cracks very easily if you have some work to do on top of it before the pour, so best to go with the 1.5". It has an R 7.5 so not so bad.
Derrick
well I am trying to catch up on my pic posting. Here are some of the radiant floor heating that was installed in the basement floor. You are looking at about 2500 Ft.of pex piping installed in 9 loops here. Not sure of the lenght of each loop as all are different and layout/lenght was done according to plan done up on a computer program. Took the plumber about a day to install and pressure test then poured the floor the next day...
Derrick
Looks good, Derrick. Keep those pics coming!
jt8
You gonna cover that pretty stuff up ?George Bush
FOUR MORE YEARS
Yup sure am ARROWSHOOTER and heres the pix to prove it......{:>)
Derrick
heres some pix from the 28th sept. I finished the deck of the foyer between house and garage. I used 2x8s, was going to use web type trusses but decided to go with 2 bys as it is only an 8ft. span over a crawl space but placed them on 12 inch centers to stiffen things up. The beam that u see in the pix is made up of 5 2x10s over an 8 ft.span. I started out planing on only using 3 by relized I had 2 extra and was to lazy to return them to the lumber yard. But 5 do fit in there very nice as it is an 8 inch wide wall in that area. A local carpenter dropped buy to see the progress and to see how many screw ups I was making but he was impressed with the work so far but when he looked at that beam he said "hmm...just a little over built"
Derrick
Edited 9/30/2004 9:28 pm ET by Derrick
Looks good so far. No PT for sills?
Joe Carola
Hey Framer
There is PT on the back of house where it is a walk-out basement but that is it. I asked around and that seems to be the way it is done around here an no one seems to of had any probs over the years.
Derrick
Was just curious. Just another case of how things are done different. Keep posting pictures as you progress. Any crazy roof lines?
Joe Carola
Sorry Framer but there are no real crazy roof lines. Its just me that is doing the work on this place along with the help of some friends and none of us are professional carps so we are trying to keep it simple for the most part. Crazy roofs lines would just cause all of us to stand around scratching our heads. .......lol Derrick
At least stick one crazy roof line in there. There's alot of good guys on this forum that can help you scratch your head ;-)
Have fun framing away and make sure you post some pictures as you progress.
Joe Carola
You said in one of your posts why your not using PT for sills, "I asked around and that seems to be the way it is done around here an no one seems to of had any probs over the years."
I wouldn't go by what anyone says. I would go by what the plans say and if they don't say I would ask the Building Inspector what's required because I've never heard of anyone not using PT for sills before no matter where your from. I would hate to see you build this nice house of yours and when it gets inspected they fail you for not using PT for the sills and then your in big trouble.
Joe Carola
I agreee, Always use PT. If the inspector says you need it...I think
there is a spray/paint product You can use. I was working for a guy and
asked why he wasnt using PT sills. He said no need cause we dont have a permit ( a basement job }. Well after the walls were all framed in and the drywall was started an inspector showed up.
I think he would have just made him go get a permit, but then he saw the sills " Really should say Soul plates". He made them spray some product
on all the wood from the cement to 8" above. Man, the homeowner was really upset. That stuff smelled so bad! I think the homeowners went to a hotel for a few days, all at the contractors expense.
Can the new PT come in contact with steel? No. So what are the protocals for anchor bolts? barrier with steel beams? Although in Canada he may be using CCA still??
Oh, for what its worth. Untreated wood in direct contact with concrete
will rot away very quickly. I have been in many houses where the partition walls in the basement are completely deteriorated for the first few inches off the floor.
Ok since I read the post about the Pt sills on Saturady afternoon I asked around to find out the story cuz I did not sleep at all on Sat. nite and when I did I had nightmares of my sills rotting away and my house falling down.......{;-)
Anyway everyone I asked that would be considered knowledable in the subject (so far about 8 people and counting) have said they have never used it or rarely used it due to the fact that PT is not permitted anywhere within a house unless it is completly sealed. Also no one has ever had a prob with sill rot. The two replys that I liked the most from my interigations are that I will be long rotted out before the sills will be and also one guy said that they had just moved a barn on their farm that was built in 1917, the floor beams were 6x6 spruce that set directly on the ground and they were still in great shape and that got me thinking about the farm I grew up on, all the barns were framed out of spruce lumber that set on top of stone or cement walls and they were in great shape and as old as dirt. So when I was ordering my open web floor joists and the roof trusses today I asked the guy that runs that biz and he also said about the same as everyone else. Anyway I think I can relax a little now but would like to hear what anyone has to say about this.....is it just a canadian thing? is it that we use spruce lumber for the sills and other areas use a different type of lumber?.Just curious..........{:-)
Derrick
Edited 10/4/2004 9:45 pm ET by Derrick
Ok while I am waiting for more info on the pt sills so I can start worrying again here are the pix of the completed deck in the entry way.
{:-) Derrick
So what you have framed there is gonna be your front porch under roof but
exposed to the weather?
No Butch it is finished space..
:-) Derrick
RE the PT mud sill thing, it is code in the state where I live (NC) so we do it.
If you had been around here (BT) long, you would have read threads about guys replacing rotted out sills. Matt
I think its more of a drainage issue. The sill will rot in areas where the grade isn't correct (and the water is sitting against the sill) or where the water is getting behind the siding and down to the sill. I've seen old houses where the grade was practically flat, and the house (on basement) sills were down at grade... damp dirt against your sill means rot city.
I wouldn't doubt NC requires PT. Isn't your climate VERY humid and aren't there portions of the state that are a bit swampy?
But for other parts of the country I seriously doubt it would be required. Sill rot should be a non-issue with good house design and proper grade. jt8
I agree. Proper drainage, grading so that the top of concrete wall is well above finished grade, a strip of 30# felt paper over the crete, bedded in sealant, then a strip of foam sill seal, then the mudsill, you'll probably be fine.
I have seen 200 year old houses and barns on stone foundations, with untreated timber sills, and the sills are still solid.
Yeah, even on neglected barns, typically its the roof that goes first, not the sills or walls. Always think it is such a waste when people don't keep the roof up.
Although I wouldn't want to see one sitting directly on the ground. If rot didn't get it, I'd think the termites (or other bugs) would. If I see a 100-150 yo barn that is sitting directly on the ground, I usually figure that it was either REALLY lucky to be in a terminte free area, or perhaps they old-timers had used some dense-a## wood for the sill.
jt8
Well Talked with a few more folks today just to get more of an idea on this pressure treated thing and all have said pretty much what Bob Dylan and JohnT8 are saying......... dont worry about the PT, worry about drainage and grading, so am not going to worry over this again as I feel I will have a solid house for much longer than I am going need a solid house so I will save my PT s for making my own casket as it will be below grade and drainage may also be and issue unless I get that plot at the back on the side hill........(in about 70 years I hope)........{;-)
Anyway a few more pix for your comments and ideas.
Thanks to all
Derrick
Sorry if the pix are not so great as most were shot just as it was getting dark.........
I think you are right - climate is a contributing factor. Raleigh NC, where I live gets an average annual rainfall of 45" - not a huge amount, but significant. Also, our predominantly red clay soil holds moisture quite well - although when it dries it turns to brick. The humidity is high too, with an average of around 70%. What is the closest major city to where you are building?
I also agree with what Bob Dylan said, which is essentially that if the mud sill is fully isolated from the concrete, and grading is good, no moisture will come in contact with the mud sill, so PT is not necessary. It's all about untreated wood being in contact with concrete that is in direct contact with damp soil. The concrete wicks up the moisture from the soil, and rots wood that is contact with it. If the concrete is isolated from the soil or the wood is isolated from the concrete, you are good to go.
As far as grading, here, on the exterior wood, has to be a min of 6" above grade, and 16" above grade in the crawl space.
Matt
Edited 10/6/2004 6:50 am ET by DIRISHINME
Hi Matt
Thanks for the reply and advice on the PT. I agree it does have its place but I think that my place will be just fine without. I was talking to an engineer/friend today and asked his opinion on the untreated wood and his reply was that untreated wood thats kept dry will not rot and that untreated wood that is constantly wet but never exposed to the air will not rot, his example was when they removed some old 12 ft post that were buried to the 6 ft mark, said it was rotten to about 10 inches or so below the grade and the remaining that was buried deeper was still in great shape but I guess this would all depend on the soil that would be packed around the post,type of wood, etc......., I thought about this after he had left the site and remembered how some folks are reclaiming old logs in rivers that were lost in log drives many many decades ago, they had gotten water logged and remained at the bottom for along time then taken up, dried, milled and sold as lumber, expensive lumber if I remember correctly. although this does not aply to unteated wood sills its something to consider when thinking about wood decay. As for PT keeping out the hungry bugs......well the only hungry bugs here are misquitoes and they don't like wood...........{:-)
Derrick
I am in Saint John N.B., about 3 hours northeast of Bangor Maine
>> 3 hours northeast of Bangor Maine <<
Sounds like you better get to work before the snow hits hard... :-)
Matt
Edited 10/7/2004 7:12 am ET by DIRISHINME
Ok have been gone for awhile so I have some catching up to do............
Floor truss day
And now with he floor trusses installed. They are12" centers/21 foot span on one end and 19.2"centers/16' span on the other end
Derrick
One of my more stressful days due to the color of the ground
Ok the white stuff is gone and things are looking better
Derrick
You can always tell the pros... They install the housewrap so the printing is right side up... ;-)
What height are the floor trusses? Matt
hi DIRISNME
I have a full 8 ft. basement under the trusses, makes the house alittle tall but wadda gonna do........lol
Derrick
yup........good advertising for the lumber yard........if i do not get it shingled in soon i my charge them rent for putting an ad on my house. actully i did here a rumor that the local yards gave u free tyvek just so they get to show there name in the new subdivisions where there is lots of constuction, thought it was B.S. but at 75 bucks a roll I had better ask my yard........after they stopped laughing they said "yup thats B.S." {:-(
Derrick
thats 75 bucks Canadian and that is about how much in USDs........hmmmm, let me see.........well in another few weeks if the market keeps going like it has in last few months it will be = to 75 American..........sorry just had to get that in there to have a little fun with our American friends {:-)
Derrick
Knowing the big green stores where you got you tyvek, you won't find anything free from that family.
Where exactly is this house?
I thought the same thing as Ciaro - about free stuff... Locally, 9' tyvek is $140 US and the 10' is $170. Maybe I could get them to send me a few rolls so that they would have international advertising... ;-)
Matt
well the trusses are started
trusses all done and shingling started
Now don't go tracking mud into the house! ha ha, you'll never get it back out again.
Dang, pretty soon you're gonna have that house buttoned up.
jt8
Sorry have not posted any pix in some time due to been busy with work and all but I will catch up soon with pics of the rough in wiring and plumbing. oh and also of the B.I.B. insulation......really great stuff.
Thanks
Derrick
Derrick, I'll be waiting...
thanks for taking the time
OK a few more from "this new house". I had taken this pix around the first of the week so by now the drywall/gyprock/wallboard or what ever it is called in your reigon is on and will post some pix of that soon.
The insulation is B.I.B type in 2x6 walls and 16 inches of blown-in in the ceiling. The contractor did an amazing job and also put on the vapor barrier and jez did they seal that house tight, without a air exchanger i think u would pass out due to lack of air, but should make heating bill low next winter.
Derrick
.....tighten it till it strips then back it off a quarter turn....
sorry, I guess I could of edited the pix a notch smaller but will have to do for now as I am of to work, ..........Sorry
Derrick
....tighten it till it strips and then back it off a quarter turn......
I had no problem opening them
Nice looking work there. I'm sure your pleased.
Are those thin black strips evident in the pics, along wall tops, bottoms, around windows, etc., sealant?
Or double sided tape?
Whatever, it is a good looking job.
I see you have a wood stove planned. What is done with a wood stove, in an airtight house situation, to get combustion air to the fire chamber?
Hey DIRISHINME
just looking at a post from u on 26th Nov. and just happen to of found price quote sheet for lumber yard.
It says .........4 rolls of 9ft. x 100ft. @$79.00 CDN x 4 =316.00CDN
Is that cheap in your area?
Derrick
...tighten it till it strips then back it off a quarter turn....
Please move your tag line into your signature file.Click on your name in the To: line. Click on My Prefs. Scroll down to the Personal Signature field. Scroll to the bottom and click on Submit when you're done.
I'm not sure what the CDN/US $ exchange rate is... Is that actually the Dupont Tyvek brand? Matt
Hello DIRISHINME
I believe the CDN dollar is worth about .80 cents or so USD..
and yup thats Tyvek by Dupont
Derrick...tighten it til it strips then back it of a quarter turn...
...tighten it til it strips then back it of a quarter turn...
Old Tank mechanic here.. We used ..
...tighten it til it breaks then send it to Ordinance...
OK........Have not posted any pix in some time as have been very busy but will have some good ones soon....I hope,,,,, as I have decided to make my own cabinets and am almost done with the bases.
Its is my first time at cabinet building ( or house building for that matter ) so it was a steep learning curve.
Will have some pixs in a couple of days........
Take care
derrick ...tighten it til it strips then back it of a quarter turn...
Looks like a pretty thick slab and a massive amount of concrete to heat up before you heat the space.
I would think the pipeing should be no more than an inch below the slab surface.
Is this the way they do it where you are ?
Where are you?George Bush
FOUR MORE YEARS
The thermo conduction through the concrete is much higher than the resistance to the ground.
The slab will be at one tempature and it does not make any difference where the tubing is within the slab.
You're probably right I was just wondering about this kind of heating system. Looks like it would be hard to control like when the wife wants to twirl the T stat and get results right now or else.George Bush
FOUR MORE YEARS
I can see what you're saying. Basically that it takes longer to bring a couple tons of concrete up 6 degrees than it does a cubic ft of air. So you leave the 72 degree house and your wife decides she wants it 78 degrees.
That could be a problem, but it would really depend on the complete HVAC setup. How much boiler power you've got behind that radiant system.... If you have combined a forced air system or other heat source. I have heard of folks who used the radiant floors in combination with forced air where the FA system basically gives them instant gratification while the radiant acts like a train locomotive...moving slowly and steadily forward, and giving you the real staying power (or 'thermal flywheel') that keeps the house temps steady. I guess the trick is to have enough thermal flywheel to keep the temp stable, but not so much that it costs you a fortune to raise the temp in a short time. Not very efficient if you need a freaking afterburner to get it up to temp ;)
But it really just boils down to a well designed system. jt8
My understanding of slab insulation is that the earth "stabilizes" at space temperature at the interior (assuming it does does get wet), so insulation is required only at the perimenter. 24" wide is the minimum, but I usually use 48." In cold climates, this perimeter can be placed below grade on the exterior not only for thermal control but to reduce the footing/foundation depth so it is not necessary to go all the way down to frost line. This hoiz. exterior system was first used in Sweden and is now incorporated into the new International Residential code that most states appear to adopting.
You opinions?
Your system varies depending on where you're located. But in cold climates, there are really a couple different forces sucking away your heat.
The most obvious one is the ambient temp above grade. Perimeter insulation can assist here. You're basically insulating yourself from the outside cold air temps.
Secondly, you have heat being wicked away by the ground itself. If you don't have insulation somewhere below your slab, you will be losing heat. So if your 74 degree slab-area is in direct contact with the 60 degree ground, the 60 degree ground is slowly going to wick away that 74 degrees. This is not as obvious as an open window on a -20 degree day, but it can result in substantial heat loss.
To combat this secondary heat loss, you will see many people putting in some form of thermal barrier (typically extruded polystyrene). 1.5-2" is common.
There are a variety of strategies for the placement of the thermal barrier. Some people will put it directly below the concrete, while others will put it below sand/gravel/dirt (so that they increase the amount of thermal mass in that floor).
Typically, most concrete guys are probably NOT going to recommend pouring the slab directly on sand (it will suck away the moisture in the curing concrete), but you can put a layer of poly in between (which also is supposed to block radon infiltration) sand and concrete.
But it all really depends on where you are located. In the SW, I doubt they put below-slab insulation in (I don't know for sure).
jt8
Actually, soil is an excellent insulation material when dry...hence perimeter berms to insulate sidewalls. The soil below the slab beomes thermally stable in an arc pattern, deepest at the center of the slab. Only at the edges do you get a temperature differential, hence the sucking idea you expressed. This can be seen visually by taking photos at night with infrared film. Everything is blue (no heat loss) on the slab interior.
I would have put 2-layers (in order to overlap joints) of 2-3"" thick insul at perimeter only. The colder the climate, the thicker, but interior insul is not required anywhere, Save some money and get better performance. Unless there is strong evidence of a below slab water condition... that needs to be solved in another way first.
Thanks for the reply.
Hi ARROWSHOOTER
There is about 4.5 inches of concrete in there and although the pix dont show it very well the pipes are at about the midpoint and this the heating guy says is not a prob.
The plumbing inspecter dropped by yesterday afternoon just to see how things were going as he was in the area. He says he has RFH in his house and uses an electric hot water heater to heat the water, says his house is 3000 square ft. with six people living there and hydro bill for coldest month last winter was 250.00 CDN dollars. (says he has the place insulated to the max and also that they all like the place to be on the high side of warm...so not bad I think considering that price is for all the power consumed for that month not just the water heater.
I was thinking an oil boiler but now I am thinking about what he said.........hmmm
Derrick
New Brunswick, Canada
Saaaay, looks like they missed a spot in the corner! Guess you should have ordered that extra yard of concrete afterall ;)
Looks good so far. That thick slab should make a good 'thermal flywheel'.
jt8
Thanks john.......got my first wall up today but forgot to take cam to site so will have to take some pix tomorrow. Going to post a few from a week or two ago tonite when I download from cam.
Derrick
Hi Derrick
I installed 1/2" pex in basement slab 2,900 s.f. at 12" on center and staple up under first floor with plates two 1/2" lines per bay. Both arrangements work well. The basement has two garage doors on one end, it is comfortable when thermostat is set at 62 degrees.
Hey arrowpov
I am glade all is working well for you cuz it is same install as I am planning less 1000 sq.ft on the size.
What are you running for loop lenght and what type of flooring is obove the S.U.
If it hardwood what is the width and have you had any probs with cupping.
Derrick
When I posted to you I couldn't click on your name
to see that your new here. Welcome aboard.
Those last pictures at 70k are great for me
and I'm on dial-up. Probalbly take 15 sec. to download
Keep em coming. Looks good so far.
Looking good Derrick! Keep those pictures coming, love seeing the progession.
Feel free to fire out those questions when they come up and give us all the details.
Thanks again for looking. Have a few more pix of the foundation after I sealed it last Thursday. Have also put in a few shots from the air so as to see how it fits on the lot.The areas not sealed that u see in the pix are below the floor grade so was told buy the excavator and foundation guys that no need to seal it. So far it has been going well with the subs as they are all great guys and do not mind giving advice as they have been at this almost as long as I have been alive so I really value it. The brick work is only around the front door (between the house and garage) and for the chimney. I was considering using a front door with two side lights but been as that area is only about 8 1/2 ft. wide may just use a single side lite as with two it may appear a little cluttered. Anyway I have to go away for a couple of days so take care ......... OH btw it is located just east of Saint john, New Brunswick about an hour from the Maine border.
I looked at the last picture first and thought to myself, "Gee, Hurricane Charlie only got one house in that neighborhood!""Some village in Texas is missing its idiot" ~ annonymous
Hi Roger
No big damage around here from the storm but lots of rain. Installed a pipe under the footing on Sat. to act as a chase to run the well hose through and was mud from head to toe. Lots of big time flooding in Northern New Brunswick and Northern Maine.
Derrick
pictures right around 70-75 KB are just about right for web transmission on most sites or via E-mail
I had been assuming from the vegetation in the backgrounde that you were DownEast from here. feels good to be right again. Moreimportant to you, the advice you get from this thread will be more accurate when we know the climate and location.
keep'em coming
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