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I’m about to install 10 interior pre-hung doors. I assume that jambs need to be nailed to studs with 16d (3 1/2″)nails. Does that mean I can’t use a finish nailer, which, so far as I can tell, uses nails of a maximum length of 2 1/2″?
Along with the interior doors, I have sixteen windows and exterior doors to trim, so I want to find a nailer to accommodate both jobs.
Any recommendations? Are the butane-fired nailers a good choice for such a job?
Thanks for your information.
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Replies
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I have always used 8d finish nails to set door jambs, without any problem. In the old days I used to hide a 16d behind each hinge into the stud, now I use a long deck screw. Yellow zinc looks fine with brass.
*Robert,You've never done this before...have you.I can't give you a lesson on trimming a house, but a 2 1/2" trim nailer should do everything you have to do. Shim behind the hinges to get the swing side plumb.Good luck,Ed. Williams
*Hand nailing the doors will be less frustrating.Hanging doors requires either alot of fussing and fine-tuning -OR- experience.Speed is nice, but not as nice as a free swinging door.Take your time, plumb and square all the way around,check diagonals and cross racking and they'll swing nice forever.Atleast till the humidity changes or the house settles!
*Gun nailing always has the advantage of only taking one hand, leaving the other free for holding the work piece, shims, etc.
*we use a nail gun loaded with 2 1/2 inch nailsto fasten the door jambs. If you use a gun, be sue it uses the 15 gauge nails rather than the 16 gaguge nails (which paslode uses).Eric
*Robert,I'm sure your finished by now but if your not this may help. Before setting the door in the opening nail shims behind where hinges will go. Plumb the hinge locations in the opening first. I nail the shims to the jacks with drywall nails. Measure first to make sure there is enough room in the opening. Put the door in the opening and nail near the top hinge with a 2 1/2 finish gun nail. The door will stay in the opening and you can move the hinge jamb side to side to fix any mistakes in the frame.
*...fewer hammer marks too...
*Eric, David:Thanks a lot for your information.Robert
*I'm sure you're finished and your doors are swinging freely by now. I'm adding this for future readers.Use as many shims as you need to get the frame level and plumb, and be sure to nail through the shims to keep them in place. A finish nailer with 2 1/2" nails is perfect. Personally, I use the Paslode cordless finish nailer (butane) and it works GREAT. As stated in previous responses, you won't get nail marks with a finish nailer and you can keep one hand free.
*I prefer to use 3-3 1/2" screws when I hang doors. I also shim in about 6 or 7 places on both the hinge and strike jambs.
*Also for future readers, 2 1/2" air nails do the job. They are in so tight that if you have to remove the jamb, they pull thru the wood.Short course in door hanging:Door side jamb must be level; edge has to be parallel to the wall, and jamb 90* up/down. These are TWO separate requirements. Shim if necessary. You will be installing the header BETWEEN the 2 jamb sides, NOT above them. When installing the door side jamb, use 3 or 4 air nails at the top, 1/2" from top. Then another 8 or 10 in a shallow zigzag the length of the jamb, in the area which will be covered by the door stop.The top nails will be hidden by the header. Next do the strike side jamb, edge parallel to wall, jamb parallel to the installed side. I use a 32" pair of cutoffs for this. Nail it the same way. Put 3 or 4 nails 1/2" from the bottom, which will be hidden by the threshhold. THEN put in the header, and nail it in the doorstop area like before. Result: The header reinforces the jamb holding up the door, and the door swings freely, and no nail holes have to be filled. For extra security, you can shoot a nail or 2 into each hinge mortise, but it really isn't necessary. If the jamb is installed correctly, it is nearly impossible to make a mistake installing the door.
*Never heard it done that way.
*Calvin,last two years I did 31 doors that way, all 7/4 honduras mahogany, with mahogany jambs and casing, except for one door which was walnut. They swing perfectly, with none of this 'cardboard shim behind one of the hinges' stuff. Other info: door stop is 1/2" x 1 1/2", I run it all the way to the threshhold for a more finished look. I use temporary door stop about 4' long (use half driven finising nails, the holes will be hidden anyhow) till the threshhold is in. I put the threshhold in with liquid nails and 1 5/8" 18 ga air nails, with the long side of the "head" running with the grain. Almost invisible, especially when finished. Top corners of the door stop are mitered at 45*, edges away from the door are slightly eased. It's held on with 1 1/4 brads, 18 ga, air nailer of course. I don't bother filling those holes. 3 hinges (3 1/2 x 3 1/2) on the interior doors, 3 ea 4" x 3 1/2" ballbearing on the exterior. Strike side and swing side both chamfered 1/8" to 3/16", before mortising for the hardware.The key to doing it right is to be absolutely sure the swing side jamb is at 90* using a good level and edges parallel to the walls where the door case molding is going to go, and at a right angle to the wall ( use a large square) nearest the hinges. Everything else bears off of that piece of wood. If it's done right, everything else falls into place.A final trick.The second last piece to go in is the top door stop. Hold it in with one air brad at the hinge side. The last piece to go in is the strike side door stop, after the lockset and strike plate are in. Close the door, put on the door stop from the inside and push it easy against the door, taking all the play out of the lock to strikeplate relationship. Put one air brad at the bottom of the doorstop. Holding it against the door, mark the location of the inside top. Open the door. Move the top of the swing side doorstop 1/16" towards the open door. Air nail it in place, all the way up and down. Now move the end of the top piece of doorstop to line up with the swing side doorstop. Nail it in place. Now when you close the door, the top hits a little sooner, the door is deformed a tiny bit, and the door doesn't rattle, but it still closes easily.
*I use my Makita battery hammer drill w/ a square drive bit to fasten first the hinge side then the latch side. feed shims from both sides to keep jam plumb and If you can have a helper to check reveal before you fasten.If your helpers had too many beers the night before you can back the screws out and move your shims.
*Robert or interested readers; I've hung doors with air driven nailers and both Paslode finish nailers. The new angled nailer is much better balanced than the straight model. Currently most homes that I trim out use split jamb doors. Only more custom homes still use a plain per-hung without casing. What am I getting at you ask? The Paslode will do a excellent job with 2 1/2 inch nails and correctly shimmed. What I don't understand is how can someone justify buying a $500.00 nail gun to hang 10 doors?I guess that's what keeps tool companies in business. We put off buying tools until it costs us money.
*I use a Paslode finish nailer to hang pre-hung doors everyday. If it takes more than 15 minutes to hang and case the door, your doing something wrong.
*James,I have a very old Paslode 16 ga finish nailer that really amazes me with it's performance. It just won't quit. Resealed it once recently and had no problems getting replacement seals from Paslode.
*James, it takes me more than 15 min to strip all the packing stuff off a prehung door, what am I doing wrong?
*If I have to hang a door, which I try to avoid at all costs, I shoot mine with a senco 21/2" nail. Yes, it's a finish nail!anyways, the only reason I wanted to post to this thread is to ask this question....What do "real" trimmers like the doors roughed at?In the olden days, we added 2". That was 3/4" for the jamb and 1/4" shim space per side. Today most jambs are thinner, probably 5/8 (I haven't measured one in many years), but the roughs are the same....2" width, 2 1/2" height.Of course, I do it any way that the superintendent wants in each sub...What do you guys want?blue
*I'll bet "real" trimmers don't care as long as the RO trimmers are plumb. And I'm with you on those 2 1/2s, we use them foreverything, just have to remember to clip 'em off when we get to a pocket door!BB, the "unreal"
*Snort....My record is hang and case two sides and install lockset in 15 minutes...mess picked up in twenty minutes...My worst is all day and still had a bad fit.near the stream percutting and assembling casing,ajAnd the speed trick really is to plumb up the opening before starting the door install.
*I have a Fine homebulding edition that shows a guy hanging 60 or 70 in a day. That includes the routing of the jambs...No air....blue
*blue....I remember the article...but I do not think it included casings...jams...locksets....It may have been hinges...door...and door stops.near the stream needing you to help on my memory,aj4/hourx8hours=32 for me...Boy would I be sacked!...I think my record is between 15 and 22...with casing but not complete with lock sets..
*You might be right AJ...I'd have to research my archives (the big junk pile up in the top floor of the barn) to find that article....fat chance!I would be impressed to do 32 doors in a day. I might have been able to do that in my younger years, but I doubt they'd actually work....oh boy was I rough on the finish!Now I'm worse...I gotta admit....when i hang a prehing now, I don't use shims. I just slam the hinge side tight and shoot it. I set the margins and double nail the strike side in five places. The casings hold the jambs straight...I know it's "not right" but it always works and I've never had a problem...It might not work so good with a solid core door though...I'll let you know!Hey guys...no complaining...I never claimed to be a "real" trimmer!blue
*blue...the speed trick is to nail 1/2" ply shims to hinge side...that has been plumbed...And then do as you say you do...Very fast and tops in quality.near the stream,aj
*Aj...do you nail the 1/2" ply shims to properly center the door?That would make sense.When I rough something that I'm trimming, I usually rough them in tighter...I'm pretty good at "re-plumbing" rough openings with my 12# adjustment tool too...blue
*Blue...just as you describe buddy....One adjusting tool...level and yes, the shims center the door.near the stream,aj
*AJ,Thanks. I don't hang doors too often and it is always a pain for me to get them right. I have seen the other suggestions and think the 1/2 ply shims idea suits me best.Allan
*2" wide & 2 1/2" high. Like you, I'll frame them tighter if I'm going to be hanging the doors myself. Ditto the 2 1/2" air nails. Some good tips in this thread.Later. LJ
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I'm about to install 10 interior pre-hung doors. I assume that jambs need to be nailed to studs with 16d (3 1/2")nails. Does that mean I can't use a finish nailer, which, so far as I can tell, uses nails of a maximum length of 2 1/2"?
Along with the interior doors, I have sixteen windows and exterior doors to trim, so I want to find a nailer to accommodate both jobs.
Any recommendations? Are the butane-fired nailers a good choice for such a job?
Thanks for your information.