I am about to reside my house with cedar pre-primed cedar siding. The
house is 100 years old with tongue and groove sheathing of one inch
boards. It has cedar siding on it now, but the siding is not in good shape. I plan to put Tyvek under the new siding. I don’t want to re-open a previous discussion, but is this a good idea ? Also, is there a trick to nailing the siding so that it doesn’t split ? Would this be easier with a nailing gun ? Any recommendations as to which sort ? Sorry so many questions. Any advice would be appreciated.
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Call cabot about pre-stained siding. Thyeycan also put 2 layers of finish on it and get you nails with heads finished the same as the siding. One set of staging and your done.
First are you using clap or shakes and will you be blind nailing or will the nails be exposed?
If you are blind nailing then use a gun like the n-64 from bostich with ring shank nails, stainless preferred or electro- galv. as your second choice. The gun is well worth the investment as you can use it for trim , siding and sheathing.
I would go with #30 felt since you are using cedar even though it is preprimed.
It will save you money and the time difference is not a factor when choosing one or the other.
If the nails are exposed then hand nail with double dipped galv. ring shanks as it is the best choice next to stainless.
The gun is just to tricky for exposed nails.
Good Luck, Ron
For cedar shingles, use a galvanized 5d box or shingle nail. Two nails per shingle about 1-1/4" from either edge and about 1" above next course line bottom edge.
For beveled siding or clapboards use either stainless or MAZE brand SPLITLESS siding nail in either 7 or 8d depending on how thick your siding butt is. One nail in each joist layout, so the nail is just above the top edge of previous course .
Never have liked pneumatics for wood siding. Hand drives is the way to go. You do not want to set the nails either. Keep them flush with the siding.
david
walk good
Ditto David's MAZE recommendations.
For cedar claps, stainless is the only route to go, and hand nailing is the only way to ensure proper flush setting. The only time I pre-drill is at the end of a board. You may not split the end of the clap with that last nail, but if you do...
When I cut cedar claps to length, I cut them a tad long...a sixteenth to an eighth, depending on the length of the clap. I set one end in place, then bow the clap, set the other end, then snap the clap into place.
You can also adjust your exposure as you install to have the butts break at the window sill and cap. That may be what you have now...or maybe not.
Well, Bernie, there are primers and then there are primers. WRC can give you problems. Do you have control over the primer? Pre-primed might take care of backprime conditions (where you are not concerned with appearance) but you may want to consider an additional stainkilling primer on the face (like Muralo's Cedar Solutions) before latex topcoats. #30 felt and stainless fasteners is the best way to go IMO.
T. Jeffery Clarke
Key point by Jeff regarding factory applied primers.
Sometimes they should be referred to as "Factory Applied, Overly-Thinned, and Likely Ineffective Whitewash."