Hi everyone,
I’m a homeowner with a window problem and…at the risk of thoroughly embarrassing myself with my lack of knowledge, realized that there was probably no better group to ask than folks hanging out at Fine Homebuilding.
Here goes. Please give me your opinions or otherwise enlighten me because I just can’t get things to add up.
We’re adding new windows to an addition. We live in the southern US and plan on using hardiplank on top of the usual sandwich of housewrap and sheathing. Aluminum windows we ordered were delivered with nailing flanges about 1.5″ back from the front of the frame.
So, even with fat 6/4 trim and the thickest flashing I can find, the window frame face is going to be at least 1/2″ proud of the trim face. I don’t think that’s going to look right.
What do you guys think? The manufacturer said that that was their standard nailing fin position.
Thanks in advance for any help.
Mike
Replies
oops
"...*NO* better group..."
From my perspective
that sounds totally normal. They expect that a lot of people will install 3/4" siding and 3/4" trim on top of it, and that the window will be pretty much flush. In reality, siding and trim details vary, so the window sits a bit proud or is held a bit back from the face of the trim, and it's no big deal. You may be able to furr out the trim a little bit if you want to, without developing a gap behind it that isn't covered by the siding.
Either way your hands are tied, because you need to nail the window to the sheathing and integrate it into the housewrap. So, the window goes where the window goes, and you trim out however you see fit.
Or, worst case, you can cut the damn flange off and install the windows like windows OUGHT to be installed.
cut the damn flange off and install the windows like windows....
...........OUGHT to be installed.
What?
here was my working solution
I thought I'd rip the sillplate and jack stud 2x4s down to 3" or so, then tack those in creating a 1/2" to 3/4" inset.
Then, I'd use a flexible sill pan and flash the opening as usual, tack the window in, and insert a 1/2" to 3/4" spacer of PVC trim between the backside of the sheathing and front of the nail flange and flash again.
It's not optimum, but I think I'd get at least as much weatherproofing as taking the fin off and installing "like windows ought to be installed."
What do you guys think?
What does that do to the projection on the inside?
since the window...
is about 2 5/8" from face to backside, it leaves it inset @ 2.5" from the interior wall plane (counting sheetrock).
Just a goofy first thought... is there anything that can be done with two level trim? That is, trim with something like 4/4 and then add a bead of 2/4 on top.
We have?
Everyone's forgotten how to install windows
Just for the sake of argument, and assuming this is a typical (old-school) aluminum window, and you cut the fins off.... how would you go about installing it?
Install your wrb, siding, etc. as a rainscreen and your troubles are over.
Bonus: you'll have a better outer envelope.
Are they truly aluminum windows or alum. clad wood windows?
Just mussing about how "windows ought to be installed".
Been doing this stuff for 35 years and every window I ever installed, new work or retro, came with instructions. Follow them for the proper installation.
Don't like the exterior trim detail?
Look for a differwent window manufacturer.
Follow the instructions
Nice concept and not too hard to do either.
Took me a few years to learn that myself.
Manufacturers are slippery creatures. Get a call back on a product failure and not have installed it to thier specs and they will squirm old of any responsibility every time.
I think you're fretting about this thing way too much. Relax. Back off and rethink.
I agree ... follow manuf recommendations for installation. Also, I installed my vinyl windows and their frames are a bit proud of the trim. I flashed the top trim, not the window frame. But if you need/want to flash the frame, you could have some flashing made in short order if not otherwise available.
I'd install them the way they are manufactured/designed to be installed
I'd install the windows with the nailing flanges as is, then build out the casings to where they're flush or slightly proud of the windows. Then bend some metal drip cap to flash the top.
Its not a big deal. I've done similar plenty of times.
Thanks everyone! And...this is why women are almost solely...
responsible for the continuation of the human race.
After days of watching me make drawings, post to building boards and generally gnash my teeth over coming up with the best solution, my dear wife picks up the phone, calls the manufacturer and ...hmmm...how do you say this..."assertively reminds" them of having told them several times they were being installed with siding.
They're taking them back and flipping the nailing fin (which I figured out finally might be possible after looking at their shop drawings online) free of charge.
I am a lucky, lucky man.
I'd imagine most of us are.
I kind of suspected that you'd gotten the wrong style. Good that it can be corrected so cheaply.