Repainting an approx. 60 yr. old house with cedar siding. The nails are bleeding stains through the existing white paint.
What do I do to insure the stains won’t go through the new paint?
Repainting an approx. 60 yr. old house with cedar siding. The nails are bleeding stains through the existing white paint.
What do I do to insure the stains won’t go through the new paint?
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Replies
BIN shellac-based sealer is the only one to use
Forrest
Thanks, I was hoping a primer would take care of it.
put two solid coats of the stuff on.
Yeah, I was wondering if spots would show through.
Assuming you aren't about to replace the obviously rusting nail heads with ss or galvanized, you could countersink with a nail set and then plug/seal the nail heads with painters putty and then spot prime with oil based primer. Without countersinking and puttying, I don't think shellac-based primer alone will keep rust stains from bleeding through for very long.
The BIN suggested by others is fine for tannin bleed through, but rusty nail heads is another matter.
Edited 9/16/2007 11:20 pm ET by RedfordHenry
This is some weird stuff. The nails are already slightly countersunk and I cant tell if they had been puttied or if they just had several coat of paint, they still bled through. I think I am still going to have to put some sort of stain block on.
Aluminum paint. Two or better yet....three coats..... from an aerosol can is a fast and handy way to apply. Chase around the house......or down one side at a time. Previous coat will be ready for recoat when you return. Leaves the house looking like polka-dot he** until you apply the topcoats, but works really well. Ten years and counting on the last job.
(Apply a "normal" primer over the AL paint dots)
Edited 9/17/2007 12:18 am ET by HootOwl
Interesting! I googled aluminum spray paint and was unsure as to what was al. paint and what was al. colored enamel. Can you remember a brand after ten years?
Didn't realize that aluminum paint was such a rare/secret commodity. <G> It sure isn't around here.
Aluminum paint is just that. Comprised of finely ground aluminum powder in a carrier with a binder. The aluminum powder just replaces what would normally be color pigments. Lay down several coats and what you really have is something akin to a thin layer of aluminum foil. Makes a superior stain blocker, rust blocker, etc. Use it for diifficult to supress water stains in plaster. It's also one of the products that post-fire clean-up companies use to seal charred wood and the smell of that.
It should be readily available off the shelf in most any hardware store near you. (Valspar makes their share of it which markets under various brand names) If your big-box doesn't carry it.......try Ace, Tru Value, etc....or a paint store...or an automotive supply store. It's usually right there beside all the other spray paint cans......and usually also available in bulk cans as well, ranging in size from a pint to a 5 gallon can.
You might even be lucky enough to find it in a high-heat version which usually comes as a dead-flat sheen. If so, you can paint right over it without a primer....or at least I do and have never had a problem with adhesion of the topcoats of paint when painting over small dots of AL paint. Best bet for that high-heat version will probably be Ace, TruValue or an auto store. Some guys use it to paint their headers, etc.
If you find/buy the stuff in the more commonly available gloss sheen (don't expect the help to know one way or the other cause they likely won't), you'll need to use a primer over it to assure good adhesion of the topcoats. One of the primers made specifically for aluminum would be best, but if you're just priming small dots over nailheads I doubt you'll need that special primer. Normal primer has always worked fine for me in that situation. Larger areas.....speciality primer for sure. Your paint store should carry aluminum primer if you can't find it anywhere else. Sherwin-Williams, for example.
Edit: If you need a special primer for painting over aluminum (or aluminum paint) and can't find one......use XIM primer instead...which should be readily available at most hardware stores and paint stores. Works just fine........or sure has for me.
Edited 9/17/2007 10:21 pm ET by HootOwl
Edited 9/17/2007 10:42 pm ET by HootOwl
Thanks.
I've been wondering about this 'aluminum paint' since someone here mentioned it a year or two ago. "I wanna be a race car passenger. You know, the guy that bugs the driver. Say, man, can I stick my feet out the window? Do we have to keep going in circles? Mind if I turn on the radio? Boy, you really like Tide."