Replies

1. 
   DanH | Jun 16, 2013 08:57am | #1

   What do the instructions say?  Your supplier should have a sheet of installation instructions, and the sheet should also be available online.

   This might be the right one, but go to http://www.lpcorp.com/smartside/ if not --

   http://www.lpcorp.com/Resources/Literature/SmartSide/Installation_Instructions/LP_SmartSide_Architectural_Collection_120_Series_Lap_Siding_Installation_Instructions_-_English/

   (I'll admit that they aren't terribly helpful with "0.27 in diameter head and 0.113 in shank diameter", but they appear to be describing an 8d galvanized box, which is the same nail we used on our Masonite siding about 20 years ago.)

2. 
   Hokuto | Jun 16, 2013 09:19am | #2

   Nineteen years ago, I (well, the siding subcontractor on our new home) used LP "Innerseal" OSB siding on our new house; we found out a couple of years later that it was the subject of a class-action lawsuit for 300 million dollars (the siding just rots and melts away from the house). I replaced it in 2010 with factory prepainted Hardiplank, installed over a rainscreen wall. I did all the work, including simultaneous replacement of the trim on the house. I have no real complaints about the prepainted Hardiplank. Yes, it's heavy and requires different handling and cutting rules, so you must dot your i's and cross your t's when it comes to installation, but it's currently holding up well, and unlike LP's Smartside OSB siding, Hardi is fireproof. I used 7/1/4" with 6" reveal, and I have yet to find any "waves" or other visual imperfections--and I can't see how using other materials (e.g., Smartside or pure cedar planks) would prevent such waves.

      Talk here about using caulk bothers me a bit--unless it's refering only to the intersections of Hardiplank with vertical corner trim, or window/door. Field intersections of two Hardiplank boards are not to be caulked, according to the most recent best practices installation documents published by Hardi.You're supposed to use a flashing material (I used thin PCV sheets) behind the intersection of two boards in the field. Caulking should be used only when the Hardiplank is intersecting trim, not at butt joints between sections of Hardiplank. 

   BTW, I used prepainted Hardi since having a house painted here in Japan is very expensive. I've been stung once by LP (Innerseal siding) and will not use any of their products until data is out verifying 50-year longivity. Here in Japan we have plenty of monsoon rain activity as well as general humidity issues, and I haven't seen any adverse effects from using the Hardiplank--but I definitely read andr followed Hardi's installation instructions.

   Edit: Oh, and regarding the kind of nails to use: I used a coil nailer with Hitachi electro-galvanized nails. I wanted to use dip-galvanized, but I couldn't find any in the very brief time I had to fill a 20' container for shipping here to Japan.

   Also, FWIW, as I pulled off the original siding, I noted that it appeared to be mostly electrogalvanized nails. Some of the nails were rusted worse than others,but not crucially worse (see accompanying photo). Needless to say, YMMV.