Replies

1. 
   FrankB89 | Jul 14, 2002 08:43pm | #1

   I'm doing an installation currently where the owner wants to alternate narrow and wide exposures.  What I'm doing is slitting the 9 1/2" planks down the middle with electric shears (just takes half a minute), placing the cut edge up so the next plank covers it and voila! 

   You should maintain a fairly consistent lap (1" to 1 1/2") to ensure adequate nailing surface.  If you overlap too much you're going to have funny problems with your beveled appearance.

   You'll definitely want help moving those skinny planks around so they don't break.

   Have fun.

    

   
   

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   Edited 7/14/2002 3:53:12 PM ET by Notchman

   
   

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   Edited 7/14/2002 3:54:16 PM ET by Notchman

1. 
   busyKathleen | Jul 15, 2002 08:39pm | #3

   great idea - thanks for the info. From the other posts I've read, this stuff sounds like the way to go, rather than wood. And hey - any reason to buy more tools is a good one, right?

2. 
   jonblakemore | Jul 14, 2002 08:48pm | #2

   You don't need a diamond blade to cut fiber cement.  Just use an old carbide, a little water sprayed to cool the blade, and a GFCI.  This would not be ideal for a whole job, but for a mockup you're ok.

   Jon Blakemore

   
   

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   Edited 7/14/2002 1:48:36 PM ET by Jon Blakemore

3. 
   woodroe | Jul 16, 2002 12:56am | #4

   We've done alot of 4" exposure. looks great. I would recommend getting the shears to cut with. It eliminates the dust, and makes a good cut.

   steve

1. 
   busyKathleen | Jul 16, 2002 01:14am | #5

   Steve, Notchman - are you guys using a jig of any sort to cut your slit with the shears, or just a good eye? I was down at our local building supply place, and they have both an electric shear and a Makita saw with a vacuum I can use. The sales guy thought a shear would be a bit more touchy than the saw. What do you think?

1. 
   woodroe | Jul 16, 2002 01:48am | #6

   Kath, I use a speed square and run the edge of the shears up against the square.

   You cut with the back side up. Take a piece and make a few practice cuts, it isn't difficult, you'll get the hang of it pretty fast. You do have to pull the square back from your cut line to allow for the stationary jaws on the shears. It is important to keep the shears flat against the piece being cut, not difficult to do, just an important detail, after a few cuts it's automatic. Most of these things are rather self-evedent when you begin working with the tool.

   We use Hardi plank siding, and the rep. came out on our first job and showed us a few tips. I think he may have lent us a shears for first that job. I used a skill saw and standard carbide blade for the few cuts I couldn't make with the shears.

   steve

2. 
   FrankB89 | Jul 16, 2002 03:18am | #7

   I snap a chalkline down the center of the plank (or wherever the ripping cut is to be). What works slick is to have the plank layed across something like a 2) 2 X12 spanning a couple of sawhorses.  Someone "drives" the shears while a helper pulls the plank through the cut.  The shears are variable speed and you can make a very straight cut.  And if you do get sloppy, the cut edge is getting buried anyway.

   No sweat!  have fun! 

1. 
   xMikeSmith | Jul 16, 2002 04:03am | #8

   here's a mockup of a 4" exposure done with 6.5" Certainteed..Mike Smith   Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore

   
1. 
   xMikeSmith | Jul 16, 2002 04:07am | #9

   here's Roy doing a cutoff with the Makita..... and a pic . of  a portion around the sill..the sill was made from Trex, since the guy who installed the windows had no sill..and the clapbds would have looked some dumb without one..

   these were all taken from a 17th century Cape in NW Rhode Island last fall

   Mike Smith   Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore

   Edited 7/15/2002 9:09:11 PM ET by Mike Smith

   Edited 7/15/2002 9:11:41 PM ET by Mike Smith

   
2. 
   xMikeSmith | Jul 16, 2002 04:14am | #10

   the water table.....       and the clapb'ds installed around the sillMike Smith   Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore

   
3. 
   busyKathleen | Jul 16, 2002 04:30pm | #11

   thanks for the mockup and great pictures - I'm compressed (that's being impressed from all directions at the same time)! You've all been big help...

   Kath

4. 
   ScottMatson | Jul 16, 2002 08:30pm | #12

   Kath,

   no offense but, I noticed in your first post that you were shaky on spending $80 for a blade to cut siding with, but it seems like you'd have to be almost a millionaire to install it with a 2 3/4" exposure-each piece of 5 1/2" siding would only have half of it exposed--

   small area to do?

   good luck,

   MD

5. 
   busyKathleen | Jul 16, 2002 08:47pm | #13

   Hey - no offense taken - actually I was leary of spending $80 on a blade that I might not use again, if the extra overlap was not possible. But hey, if it works $80 is well spent. And what could possibly be wrong with getting more tools? ;)

6. 
   River19 | Jul 17, 2002 03:10pm | #14

   Mike looks great as usual.  How was the Trex to mill for the sill?  A buddy just went nuts with Trex for his sills and threshholds, I didn't know if it was an acceptable use for Trex.

   For your water table it looks like you used 1x's with a bevel.  Do you just run the tar paper/house wrap and claps right down to that bevel or is there more to it?

   Thanks

   SJ

   Know a little about alot and alot about little.

7. 
   xMikeSmith | Jul 17, 2002 09:16pm | #15

   The trex for sills goes back to about '95 or '96 with us....

   on the water table... that's a 5/4 x4 .on the bevel   over a 1x10.  with ice & water counter flash... and a white coil stock flashing with a full hemMike Smith   Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore