Replies

1. 
   dovetail97128 | Jul 27, 2008 08:24am | #1

   My program usually has prime and paint d-wall and any other wall , ceiling surfaces, do the same to all the trim if it is finished with paint, then after install of trim fill holes and second coat the trim in place.
   If laquer or stain finish then prime walls, install trim , finish , mask off then paint walls .
   Almost always easier to plan on touch up work after EVERYTHING is done, including floor coverings (including tile, Exception is carpet) IMO.

   They can't get your Goat if you don't tell them where it is hidden.
2. 
   Dinosaur | Jul 27, 2008 09:01am | #2

   Find yerself a big loft or barn or arena and set up a temporary paint shop. Move all the trim and doors etc in there and pre-prime/paint/stain/varnish everything. Set it up like an assembly line. If you have different colours/finishes to deal with and you're gonna be spraying, figure on building isolation 'booths' outta poly sheeting and zip-wall props or whatever.

   rack it till it dries, then move it all back to the site.

   While all this is going on, another crew is priming and painting all the gyprock. If you work things right, the two paint crews oughta finish about the same time, and you can send in your trim sub to install the pre-painted woodwork and doors.

   No masking; no cutting in; no bull. Only way to fly....

   Dinosaur

   How now, Mighty Sauron, that thou art not brought
   low by this? For thine evil pales before that which
   foolish men call Justice....
   

   

3. 
   Mooney | Jul 27, 2008 03:38pm | #3

   Different kinds of jobs dictate the course of action. The quality wanted also does as well as the cost of the job desrired.

   I feel like I said alot in those two sentences.

   Also a landlord needs a different job than anyone else becasue they have to repair what happens time and time again.

   I like slick too becasue its the most efficient finish to repair . I just got through spending two days repairing  drywall in a rental that was textured. It would have been a snap if it had been smooth.

   After reading what you wrote three times to get the type of job you have and you said the trim and doors paint but there are stained beams , bricks walls , and finished concrete floors then I would;

   Mix a 4 gallon box of joint compound in the green box and add a gallon of drywall primer . Mix it with a power mixer like the drywaller mixes their mud . I use a double 5 inch wheel spinner which will cream it . I take the time to roll all the walls with it to not only prime the drywall , but to give it a light texture thats looks slick. It bridges over the slick drywall joints to rough paper . No seeum nails or joints . It also provides a first coat . Its also very cheap if you figgure it out by gallon price. Its labor intensive. You could spray first coat but its very expensive . Check out Sherwin Williams prices. If you choose to use drywall mud you will need to sand/screen  the boogers in a sweeping motion. You can use block filler in exchange for mud with the primer and its slick. Using the drywall mud lets you put a gallon of water in the mix so include that in when you figgure the price per gallon. I normally mix the mud  in a 6 gallon bucket and then half it into 5s with lids where I add the paint . Some times I use a 2 gal mud to 1 primer mix which is pretty nice primer,texture paint .

   If you dont care about looks all that much then you can paint it two coats flat but dont spray it . The flat paint rolled thick will be better than what you will see in commercial work. Very serviceable . Very effective if your paint if next to free. I just cant afford to have much in the paint this way or else get paid for it. If you enamel , eggshell it needs the primer . Dont consider it if its semigloss.

   You have different options on the doors.

   On painted trim I like to set the doors and remove them. There again it depends on quality and your preference. You can spray all the jambs with latex primer , caulk and fill , and paint the same as the walls if its eggshell. On the other hand if you want them slick;

   You can finish the walls complete with out the wood as a hassle . Then paper all doorways and set the doors . Use a hlvp sprayer . IN this case you have to mask the floor . I would probably use tinted laquer in that case. Primer and finish. Set up the doors and trim in a warehouse somewhere the floor didnt matter or cover the floor with 6 mill.  Dont hang the doors till its the final walk though.

   Tim