Hi everyone, I am thinking of replacing the cedar T&G siding on my gable with Azek or some other PVC trim boards. I plan on machining the Azek to be an exact copy of the T&G siding that is there now. Do you think PVC trim would work in this application?
Do you forsee any problems with installing it as T&G? Do I need to glue each board to the one next to it or can I just nail/screw it to the substrate? Please see the photos of what is there currently. Any advice is much appreciated. At the peak of the gable it might be around 6 1/2′.
-Jay
Replies
Is there some reason you want to replace the existing? It looks to be in pretty good shape.
The siding is not in the best shape. Bad cupping,checking, lots of knots loose and falling out. Some boards are really getting
big gaps between them to the point where rain could easily get behind. Just tired of the joints showing old paint colors as the
wood moves.
Answers to you questions...
1. Probably not that color. Most PVC trim requires a paint LRV (light reflectivity index) of 55 or greater. This seems lower.
2. No.
3. You need to allow for thermal expansion and contraction of PVC material. I wouldn't glue them all together. It would be a pain to install that way and it would probably result in a buckle somewhere in the field (probably at the weakest fastening link) I would refer to Versatex installation manual for best practices on fastening. It' s going to want to naturally expand and contract at the t&g joints. In fact, you can see expansion and contraction at the joint now resulting from moisture content changes in the wood (radial and tangential). The thermal movement will result in the same effect in width changes (depending on solar exposure), but you will also need to allow it's length to move (hidden) under the rake boards as well. The PVC pieces will extend in length with heat whereas now the wood doesn't extend longitudinally at all from moisture content changes.
My tact on detailing something like this would be to allow more of a reveal at the profiled joints. In other words mill the T& G joints to net out about a 1/4" wide (when material is about 80 degrees)--- at each joint-- to allow for movement. Right now they look to be about 1/16"-1/8". I don't think the"look" will be all that different because of the heavily profiled nature of the planks. I would also install the wide planks with SS screws and just tack the profiled pc right near the center of the profile with SS 6 d finish nails. Of course I'd change the color to meet warranty requirements if you choose the PVC route. If you can't change the color, then your probably best to leave it as wood. Like Dan said, it seems to be in pretty good shape. In fact, the weatherabilty aspects of the construction are optimal as far as wood siding goes.
May look at cement
Is there a Hardi product (or similar (cement siding)) that would duplicate what you want to do? Maybe even a vertical vinyl siding (Allsides)? You sure would have a lot less movement/installation issues.
Hope this helps.
wishful thinking
clarkster75 wrote:
Is there a Hardi product (or similar (cement siding)) that would duplicate what you want to do?
Are there pigs that can fly?
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Touche!
That pig actually looks like she's having fun.
There is surely a treat involved to get her to fly.
The motivation is that so long as she fiies she don't get eaten.