mason is ready to go thru the roof and build the chimney. any advice for cricket contruction,flashing and asphalt shingling would be appreciated.
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That's a very broad request!
Could you narrow it down by adding details and photos?
Is your mason at a loss to answer your question?
There are various articles on this subject published in FHB and trade publications.
More please............Iron Helix
Stone, brick, CMU, other?
Where's the chimney located on the roof? At the eave, rake, ridge, plane?
Any corbelling inside the attic? How wide is it?
View Image
brick, about 8' down a 10/12 pitch. 18" wide.
sorry, not sure what corbelling is, but the attic is just unused space .
not sure what corbelling is
Is the chimney wider after it comes thru the roof? Sometimes mason's will lay the chimney as small as possible thru the attic to save labor in an uncomfortable space and then make it larger just before it comes thru the roof. In this instance, regular flashing will sometimes not keep the water out. The brick will saturate, by pass the flashing, and drip off the corbels (stepped brick) inside the attic. These situations need to be thru flashed back to the flue liner.
8' down a 10/12 pitch. 18" wide.
In my estimation, this chimney would not need a cricket. I didn't catch the 18" until I'd already typed all the stuff above, but it's probably not corbelled if it's 18" wide. View Image
Thru flash it to the liner.
Some say it is overkill but in my experience, about 50 chimneys, I have only had 1 leak, the only one I didn't through flash.
By through flashing do you mean the flashing continues all the way through the joint?
That doesn't seam to allow for a bond does it?
By through flashing do you mean the flashing continues all the way through the joint?
That's what through flashing means.
That doesn't seam to allow for a bond does it?
Gravity will overcome that.View Image
I can se the advantage as far as breaking the capilary action.
Yet I'd rather not rely on on gravity to hold the mass together.
Perhaps a good chimney cap and some judicious corballing would
be a good alternative.
Yes it goes all the way through to the liner.
Athough we may call mortor guinny-glue, it has basically no tensile strength, so breaking the bond is not an issue.
Sorry,didn't see your post till after. It does have some Tensile strenghth. Not much ,but better then a smooth slippery
slip sheat of copper. Just my bias I suppose, but traditionally weight on wieght and maintaining bond
were effective methods of building.