Need advice on building an usual trellis
I want to build a trellis (see the attached picture), 7′ tall, 3 1/2′ wide, out of redwood. I am very new to DIY, so I want to find answers to several novice questions. Additionally, any advice & critique is appreciated.
1. To support plants I want to use stainless steel rods inside a rectangular frame. How can I attached this frame to the posts and make it look like it is suspended? My current thought is to cut steel tubes into 1 1/2″ spacers, and drive screws from inside the frame, though the steel tube spacers, to the posts.
2. I want to add a piece of 2×6 below the frame, for the aesthetics and to strengthen the trellis. What is a good method to attach the 2×6 to the posts? I thought about driving 7″ screws through the posts to the 2×6, but I probably can’t get the screws to line up to the 2×6. Can I drive screws from the 2×6 into the posts? How?
3. The posts will be 6×6 ConHeart redwood. I will treat the ends with wood preservatives. I have clay soil in my yard. Should I still set the posts in crushed rock, which seems like the preferred method here?
4. For the stainless steel rods, I plan to drill 3/4″ deep holes on the inside of the frame, insert the rods, then tighten the screws to finish assembly. Should I worry that the redwood start rotting from these holes?
5. Is it a good idea to add corner braces to the frame? How about braces between posts, 2×6, and 2×10?
Thanks for your help.
Bill
Replies
1. Yes to your idea of ss spacers on the sides, not the top/bottom. Or, possibly make the ss rods long enough to extend through the frame and into the posts.
2. Use your long screws for the 2x6. Drill clearance holes through the posts by starting the holes on the frame side. Drill as straight as you can. By starting on the frame side you will assure that the screws will hit their mark.
3. Backfilling the hole with gravel is much easier than using the removed dirt and it will be a better installation to boot.
4. There are plenty of places for this trellis to rot anyway. That's why you're using redwood. Don't worry about it.
5. Corner braces are not necessary and they will destroy the aesthetics.
re: 1. Yes to your idea of ss
Hi, thank you for the quick answers. If you don't mind, I have a few follow-up questions.
1. Why wouldn't you use spacers on top and bottom? Will horizontal screws be strong enough to hold up the wood & steel rods?
2. Brilliant! Simple & effective. It's so good I feel like an idiot.
3. Some messages say that a hole in clay will fill up with water in the wet season. is that still better than having the posts in concrete? This past winter I had a 2-foot deep hole that still had water a day after 4 inches of rain.
4 & 5. Got it.
Thanks again.
Bill
1. Because top and bottom connections are directly along the path of gravity, they will destroy the illusion of suspension that you wish to attain. Think of a male gymnist working on the rings. He puts himself into the iron cross postion. Any viewer knows that he isn't floating but there's great visual tension. Now, put one foot or even one toe on the floor. Presto! The magic is gone.
3. I have no experience working in such clay soils. Someone else has to help out there.
re: Because top and bottom
Thank you again. I think this will be a good project for me.
Bill