Framers installed windows (I’m working with a builder) and I noticed that they did not slope any of the bottom plates to the rough openings. The flashing jobs they did seemed fine to me, but the lack of slope there kinda concerns me. Everything I’d read online seemed to highlight importance of this.
My builder’s response was “it’s fine that’s how we do it”.
On top of this, they nailed the bottom flange (although they did leave off caulking/tape which is good). Now I do believe this is a part of the window install instructions (Andersen 100s). But that in combo with the lack of slope causes concern for how any possible moisture may escape.
Am I overthinking this or is there cause for concern? Given windows are already installed are there any additional details I can add to at least provide some extra protection? I know there are no window top caps/flashing to direct water, just the Tyvek overlapped… so I suppose I could add this.
thank you!
Replies
Study the Andersen install sheets.
Search above in the banner for window installs.
A slight slope at the sill framing (before window is set) can be accomplished with a pc of beveled clapboard with flashing tape properly wrapped with the rest of the opening and incorporated with your Tyvek. Everything is built and sealed bottom up. You wouldn’t tuck your raincoat into your pants.
Good window manufacturers usually have good directions.
As far as the builder’s comment,
Respectfully, “that’s how we always do it “ , you hope is the proper way.
Take a look through the search feature here and you should find a lot more info.
Thanks Calvin! Agreed with all your points. Now one bit of context to my question is that the windows have already been installed without a sloped bottom plate. So I’m just wondering how much concern I should have about this installation and if I should do something now, maybe additional measures to help prevent future issues
I can only add an observation, not really science. After many years of new work and restoration and repair, the most usual damage to framing has been in cases where the window sill has failed (long ago), and this in construction that predates house wrap and flashing. Most new windows seem fail sash first, then sill. Doors too for that matter.
If you do regular inspections and a modest amount of maintenance you should have little to worry about.
If you are satisfied with the flashing detail, I can only suggest posting some good photos of your install. Maybe something will catch the eye or most will consider them ok.
Thanks guys really appreciate feedback! I’ll look back over it this weekend and take pics if necessary
Personally, I don't think you have anything to worry about it - manufacturers build redundancy into their details - the sloped sill is one of those 'best practice' details that few installers ever actually do. Once you spray foam the bottom gap, that ledge becomes fairly shallow anyway. The top and side flashing is the key thing to get right!
- Not being sloped is not a big deal if you have the sill flashed. It's one of those "nice to haves" but not going to make or break your build. No need to redo it.
- Nailing the bottom flange is fine, ideally you would skip every other one and used shims under the flange as well. If all were nailed, it should still be just fine, just not totally perfect/ideal. You can always pry those out, which would be difficult and caulk the holes, but now you're creating more issues and relying on the caulking to last.
Best to just keep moving on.
Thanks all! Really appreciate it