Replies

1. 
   TheTimberTailor | Feb 14, 2013 01:24pm | #1

   Rail to Newell Transition

   Answers to your railing/newel post transition are limited only by imagination (and building codes :-) but a somewhat typical configuration is shown in the attached SketchUp 3D conceptual image.  It addresses the complexities by separating horizontal and angled railings with a termination of the horizontal rail straight into the newell post.  That allows the angled handrail to connect with a 90 degree rail "fitting".  The same thing can be accomplished with a "volute" fitting that would cap the newel post. 

   As I said, options are endless but be sure to contact your local building department for balluster spacing as well as guardrail and handrail heights.  In my area I would no longer be covered by "grandfathered" dimensioning for these things; balluster spacing would be under the 4" sphere requirement and some sort of "riser bar" would be needed to restrict the open riser spacing to the 4" sphere code too.

   Good luck with your project, an upgrade from the current style should be a nice improvement to your home.

   Matt

   The Digital Jobsite blog at finehomebuilding.com

   
1. 
   user-2413692 | Feb 14, 2013 06:46pm | #2

   Rail to Newell Transition Help

   Matt,

   Thank you very very much. The SketchUp drawing is a huge help. Your proposed design woud allow the newells to be mounted on the outside surface of the stringers which will facilitate a easier method for accomplishing a secure mount. The challenge to my skills and tools will be the 90 degree fitting work. I am looking forward to the challenge.

   Disappointing hearing about the potential open riser code change. This design is one of the things we like about the stairway. We heat with a wood stove in the foundation level and the open risers make a nice chimney to the upper floor. I must admit that the open space is challenging to some pets and small children.

   Thanks again for the info and drawing.

   Gibby

2. 
   TheTimberTailor | Feb 15, 2013 01:17am | #3

   90 Degree Handrail Fitting

   Gibby,

   The good news is that a range of fittings, 90 degree among them, are available in most handrail mill profiles so you can just order the various piecesparts you need for your handrail configuration.  The bad news, not really all that bad, is that cutting, fitting and assembling these fittings will take a bit of time and patience, nothing that can't be overcome with determination.  Work carefully in the planning, cutting and fitting of your cuts and securing workpieces and  you'll do fine.

   The solution I use for open riser stairs to make them code compliant is to fit a 1/2" square steel tube/bar midway in the space between treads and 1" back from the nosing.  It makes the space so a 4" sphere can't pass through, can be made and finished to compliment your choice of balluster and won't affect air flow from lower level to upper.  Although the attached photo shows riser bars in exterior deck stairs the method should apply equally well to your stairs if required by code in your area.  

   Best of luck in your endeavor, and post progress and completion photos if you're able.

   Matt

   
1. 
   user-2413692 | Feb 15, 2013 03:54am | #4

   Open riser code compliance solution

   Matt,

   I like your solution for the open risers. We are planning on installing iron balusters with wooden handrails. The metal riser fillers will work nicely with the overall design.

   Thanks again for your help

   Gibby 

3. 
   user-2413692 | May 13, 2013 05:06pm | #5

   Progress Update

   I'm making progress. Going on 10 weeks since I started ripping up the carpet and throwing it in the dumpster. Kitchen fully functional as of yesterday. I saved the railing work for last. It has me intimidated. Although I'm feeling a bit more confident now that the box newels are in. Thanks again for the insight you provided.

   Gibby

   
1. 
   TheTimberTailor | May 18, 2013 08:54pm | #8

   Light in the Tunnel

   Gibby,

   Thanks for sharing progress photos and info.  I've wondered a time or two how your project was coming along.  After 10 weeks you're probably able to see a light in the end of the tunnel, and this time, it's not just a train coming the other way!

   The photos show your persistence, determination and craftsmanship.   Very nicely done.  I'd guess after this project is over you won't be nearly as intimidated by the next one!  Please post a few before/after pics when you're all done?

   Best,

   Matt Jackson

   aka The Timber Tailor

   The Digital Jobsite Blog

4. 
   oops | May 13, 2013 10:44pm | #6

   stairs

   I'm assuming that you are not getting a building permit since open risers will not meet code if the vertical space (riser ht.) between the treads is greater than 4". Also the space between the ballusters must not exceed 4". FYI just in case you are interested.

   Don't get me wrong, I like the open riser look.

   FORGET EVERY THING I SAID.  DIDN'T SEE THE PREVIOUS THREAD.  ALSO COULD'T FIND A DELETE BOTTON.

1. 
   user-2413692 | May 14, 2013 08:18pm | #7

   Balluster Spacing

   You arew correct, no permit. Existing stairs, just repacling the railings, and refinishing to a different stain. Ballustrer spacing is being laid out for 4 inches center to center, wroaught iron.