All
See “Got New Truck Today (67′) in Photo Gallery.
Okay, so we scrape all the old plywood and put 4 1/2 gals of oil base primer on the wood sides.
Then we take it to the truck wash and spend $30 to clean the under sides, hydralics and motor of dirt and caked on oil.
Then we decide to spif up the cab a little bit. It’s a little rusty every where.
Then I go to the parts store and ask for the cheapest paint. They tell me epoxy primer, $70 a gal and a couple of things to go with that maybe up to $120 for the primer stage.
Then PPG Omni line of paint, with hardener and reducer going to be another $120.
I guess I was hoping to get bay a lot cheaper.
Understand this is our tear off truck. It’s meant to get dirty and to recieve everything that is dirty and rotten.
I am going to clean it up, bondo a couple of spots and paint it up once and that’s it.
I don’t know much about automotive paints so should I just bite the bullet and spent the $240-$250 and get it done.
Rich
Replies
McForrest can ROLL on Rustoleum like a pro paint job, hit him up
McDesign the office lacky now.
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations
You gonna play that thing?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=32Ln-SpJsy0
Sphere
What?
I have an HVLP (small one) and an airless.
I don't need to use a brush or a roller.
I just need a paint that will dry fast for outdoor painting and that look decent.
Just need ideas. If it needs to be auto body paint then so be it.
Rich
rustoleum , really. Or tractor and implement paint, enamel.
Forrest did magic with foam rollers.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations
You gonna play that thing?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=32Ln-SpJsy0
Sphere
I'll check out the tractor paint.
I just want
cheap
fairly durable
and quick drying
I don't need any june bugs stuck to the finish, and then have to look at them for the next 10 years.
Rich
You can add Japan drier to oil based paints to speed drying time. Check with your local Sherwin Williams.John Svenson, builder, remodeler, NE Ohio
Svenny
Thanks for the input.
Probably still looking at a 4 hour dry time???
Rich
Offer to buy up mis matched leftovers at auto paint shops. Lacquer or enamel is a big choice. I'd go with enamel, likely.My son is painting his 72 dodge Dart with the duplicolor premixed paint. About $20 a quart, but it's thinned already.
Mark
How much paint do I need for a 69' long truck. LOL
What's the difference between laquer and enamel?
Obviously a different solvent base. But beyond that I am not sure what is the difference.
Rich
now your in my field. theres lacquer,drys fast,needs buffed to shine,hard to get it anymore.then theres enamel tractor paint,this a old synthetic enamel,goes on wet ,stays wet for 30 mins,shines real well for about a year and then will fade bad,acrylic enamel[probably what omni is] goes on,shines,flash off in about 15 minutes,if you use the hardner or clearcoat it will last for 4-5 years,then theres urethane,great paint but will cost you around 600 for the truck cab.here's what i'd do,if the truck is in pretty good shape get you 10 sheets of 400 wet or dry,a garden hose and start sanding.
then buy the omni paint with a sealer,wear a mask and start shooting.
really if you have some questions let me know,larry
if a man speaks in the forest,and there's not a woman to hear him,is he still wrong?
larry
I am not too proud to ask for help.
The truck has a little rust everywhere. But we got down to bare metal fast. Some rusted all the way thru.
We used a 4.5 grinder today and a 3M removal pad and took alot of it down to bare metal. Found some bondo from previous repair job.
You think it is worth the $250 to use the PPG Omni?
They also has a Fleet white, with a different reducer, but I would still have to buy the primer.
Am I going to use a gallon of primer and a gallon of finish coat for a truck cab? Or is that all they sell it in?
I need to get it painted tomorrow. Next week work will start pressing in and if I don't get paint on it while the iron is hot it will never get done if you know what I mean.
I don't really car about the finish. I just want it to look presentable from the street.
Rich
first ,primer is aproduct that you put on several coats and build up,then come in and sand to get smooth, a non sanding sealer is used right before you paint,so you put a coat on and then come right back and topcoat it.if your down to bare metal you have to useone or the other,depending on how slick you want it.
you scare me a little when you say you used a grinder on it,did you grind all over or just where you were putting plastic on.if you ground all over unless you prime and sand it will show the grinder marks,i understand the first time shingles hit the hood it won't matter.
you know i'm on the fence a little,the omni paints are what i call a fairly high quality paint,i would use them on a car worth 5k, a new 45k pickup,no. but i also no you are looking to make it one color for a while,so if you want to save 200,you could shoot it in the tractor paint,it will keep it from surface rusting. i do think once you use that if 3 years from now you want to paint it again you will have to stay with the tractor paint or you could hit problems.if this was a truck that wasn't going to get some dings i'd stick with the better paint.
if you are using the tractor paint and you get a real bad run,immeditaly take a pc of masking tape ,and let the sticky side touch the run and pull it off,it will take some of the run off and keep flowing and smooth out.that make sense? larry
if a man speaks in the forest,and there's not a woman to hear him,is he still wrong?
larry
Thanks, I will decide in the morning.
Rich
Attached is a word doc I picked up on a car board I frequent.
It's more geared towards cars than work trucks but there is a lot of good info in there. Types of primers, base coat clear coat etc.
JAlden
Thanks that was good reading.
I don't know much about auto painting.
I just want to look good from the street.
Rich
if you are using the tractor paint and you get a real bad run,immeditaly take a pc of masking tape ,and let the sticky side touch the run and pull it off,it will take some of the run off and keep flowing and smooth out.that make sense? larry
Best tip I've heard in a month. Thanks
bt
can you spell E -A-R-L S-C-H-E-I-B?
"Never pick a fight with an old man. If he can't beat you he will just kill you." Steinbeck
cat
Does not compute
Does not compute
Rich
Earl Scheib used to have a large chain of auto paint shops.They would advertise 3 price levels.Wkipedia say that it was still $29.95 through the 90's.I remember newspaper ads from the 60's and was thinking that it was a little more. Like $59.95, 69.05 and 79.95For the cheapest you drove through with the side windows down and the wipers going. No masking <G>.Apparently they are still around, but in a more limited way and with a better product.http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Earl_Scheibhttp://www.earlscheib.com/pro1.php.
.
A-holes. Hey every group has to have one. And I have been elected to be the one. I should make that my tagline.
Youngin's, what ya gonna do?Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations
You gonna play that thing?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=32Ln-SpJsy0
Earl Scheib still has the same three shops here in the SF Valley, going all the way back to the 1950's or even earlier.
The old man used to do his own TV spots. In a monotonous voice he'd say, "I'll paint any car, any color for $19.95."
In those days automotive paint needed regular hand waxing, about once a month, to keep from oxidizing in the sun, so Earl did a non stop business, painting used cars.
Edited 7/12/2008 1:42 pm by Hudson Valley Carpenter
Some years back, I bought an old utility bed for my pickup. I knocked off most of the rust and flaking paint with a random orbit sander, went over the whole thing with 120 grit, then painted it with Bruning Silathane. It's a silicone machinery enamel, some of the colors are rated as porch & deck paint.
I used one of those low-nap rollers where the bubble package is the roller tray (like $4 at the hardware store), and used the matching aerosol spray for hinges, handles, etc., and it didn't look bad.
Later I made a tailgate for it out of MDO board, painted the same way, and it took a close look to tell it wasn't sheet metal.
Bruning also made a metal primer in sort of a sage/army green color, matte finish. Been thinking about shooting that over the Jeep so it'll at least be all one color again.
Tom
Thanks for the info.
Rich
Duplicolor has a new line of automotive paint that's designed for DIY use. I saw them use it on one of those car shows on TV; it's supposed to work pretty well and is a lot less expensive than PPG, Dupont, etc. http://www.duplicolor.com/products/paintshop.html Another possibility is some auto body paint stores have a clearance table in the back where overstock or mismatched cans of paint end up, you may find a color that would look good. One other source is Tractor Supply or Farm and Fleet stores - they sell tractor paint that's durable and cheap. The hot rodders like John Deere Blitz Black...it's a matt finish that looks like a hot rod primer job.
Stuart
Sphere also mentioned tactor paint.
I will have to go to my farm supply place tommorrow and ask some questions.
I was there today for a different reason.
Thanks
Rich
any industrial enamel will do (high gloss) i like to add penatrol and use an airless spray rig... last coat mist on before coat before it dries... last coat should be 50/50 paint & thinner and it will blend in all the dryish looking coats... i do this outside on a no wind day after wetting down the whole area...
tractor paint works well also (co-ops have it)...
i get mis tinted stuff for less than $10 gal... just batch mix em so you have about 3 gallons... after 6-8 yrs in the sun my dumptruck still looks good...
p
ponytl
What do you use for a primer?
Rich
if it has a good base coat of paint no primer is needed just needs to be sanded so it has some "tooth" for the new paint to bite to... i sand with and electric obital sander and 220 paper is fine for a "truck" i then tack..ie: wipe down everything to be painted with mek or thinner... let it flash off/dry then paint... if primer is needed the same type industrial red oxide oil based primer is fine...
i painted some alum store front window frames with some john deere green after doing nothing but wipe'n em down with thinner some 15yrs ago and they still look good...
on the truck... if you add the penetrol it will take longer to dry... but if you park in the sun it will bake it on and it will look better after 3-4 days... you want to put all your paint on within a few hours... you do not want to recoat after 24 hours unless you wait about 2-3 weeks... I usually use a titan 440 airless with a finer tip... door jams, fender wells, and with the hood popped open around the edges of the engine bay... then with the doors & hood closed but not latched tight... start at the top (roof &^ a small ladder helps)) and work down... long even strokes with your gun (no rocking the gun) keep a wet overlap ( i sometimes will shoot a tack coat first which is a light mist coat over everything to give the paint something to bite to... helps prevent runs) wait about 20-30 min then start your second coat spray this at an angle to your first coat.... give it a few min... then spary your blend coat.... which is a hotter more thinned coat... this will make all you overspray fuzzy paint blend in... thats about it... old shirts make good tire & wheel masking.... i always spray on a water wetted area to keep the dust down... you'll have a few bugs fly into your paint but they'll be no prob in a few days... unmask with care after about 8 hours... keep an exacto knife to cut the paint from the masking if it tries to lift the paint... take your time... clean everything really well before you start.... pressure wash everything well... inside door jambs... under the hood... down every crease & crack... ect... if not dust & dirt will blow out as you paint... i wash very well before i do any sanding... if you prime... you will need to sand the primer before you top coat...
like everything prep work is everything
p
ponytl
Thanks for the painting tips.
Put the primer on today and sanded.
It was too windy to spray the top coat.
It's not going to be professional grade. But from 30' it will look great.
Then we will start giving it the rough jobs.
Rich
It's not going to be professional grade. But from 30' it will look great.
In that trade it's called a 20/20 paint job. As long as you don't get closer than twenty feet, it's perfect. They also take care with the hood, the most noticeable area, standing on a box or a short step ladder so they can get the best view of that surface.
As it usually says on the can; shoot a light "tack" coat first, just enough paint to show some color on top of the primer. Let it dry for a few minutes, until tacky. The main purpose of the tack coat is to stop runs from occuring, particularly on vertical surfaces, when the full top coat is laid on.
The second coat on the vertical surfaces is laid on like siding, bottom to top, side to side, each "course" complete. Look for coverage and gloss. There's a fine line between the two, when the paint flows just right.
Stop adding paint to that "course" as soon as you see some gloss. Any more will cause runs.
Best wishes for a good result. Photos from twenty feet will be acceptable.
Edited 7/12/2008 6:52 am by Hudson Valley Carpenter
get mis tinted stuff for less than $10 gal... just batch mix em so you have about 3 gallons... after 6-8 yrs in the sun my dumptruck still looks good
So that's how you ended up with a pink dump truck?
;)
jt8
"A little 'enthusiasm' and all problems seems small!"
Automotive enamel over automotive primer. Very durable glossy finish, no clear coat needed. Follow the application instructions carefully to get the best finish.
Don't be afraid to lay on the paint until you can see it start to flow. As a body shop owner acquaintance of mine used to say, I'd rather have a few runs that a lot of orange peal.
You can cut runs off with a razor knife the next day and buff them out after the paint hardens completely...if you even care at that point.
Edited 7/11/2008 11:05 am by Hudson Valley Carpenter
I can't add much, except to say start at the bottom and work up. Paint will run like crazy when there's dry paint below where you're painting, and it's on too heavy. Really avoid putting it on too heavy, removing runs is not so easy.
Mark
Thanks for the advice.
I am from Iowa, where we think if a little is good, alot must be better. LOL
Rich
If ya paint it with tractor pain, I hope ya paint it red.(-:
If there is no God, who always pops up that next Kleenex?
Boss
I have a dream that one day red tractors and green tractors will work together. And Tractors will not be judged by the color of their paint, but by the Ft/Lbs of torque and their reliablity.
Nah forget it, it'll never happen.
I am going to go with Rustoleum White and stay out of the tractor wars.
Picking a paint color is always the hardest decision.
Rich
"I have a dream that one day red tractors and green tractors will work together."
That's just plain SICK.
I believe that in order to preserve the purity of their color the red and green tractors should be kept on separate farms.
Separate, but equal, of course.
Q: What do your boss and a Slinky have in common?
A: It's fun to watch them tumble down the stairs.
Yeah, if they mate the offspring would be yellow, that's just not right.
Boss
I believe that in order to preserve the purity of their color the red and green tractors should be kept on separate farms.
ROFLOL
Man, you're really over the edge. LOL
I guess a man has to have his priorities. Somethings are important.
My uncle was a John Deere man all the way.
Me, I don't care.
Rich
All
All<!----><!----><!---->
It's Sunday morning and I am too sick to go to church. So I will try to post some pics of the truck painting.<!----><!---->
Last Tuesday we tore out the truck bed and ordered 18' T&G PT 2x8s. That evening I started scraping the plywood box for repainting.<!----><!---->
Late Wed afternoon we finished scraping the plywood, then we sprayed 4-5 gallons of SW oil based primer on the plywood and we replaced on piece of plywood.<!----><!---->
My plan was to take Thurs and Fri to work on the truck and do some work on rental property. Thurs we still had a couple of work projects to finish up until about 10:30.<!----><!---->
The scene of the crime.
View Image
View Image
View Image
View Image
Rich
All
Then Levi and I took the truck to the car wash. They have a large bay for stuff like this with 2 spray units. Our goal was to clean up the box framing members and to get the hoist, PTO and engine clean. The hoist cylinders had 1/2" of oily crud on them. The PTO was just a large mass of crud. Over $30 and 1 1/2 hours later it was pretty clean.<!----><!----><!---->
Then we started after dinner with a grinder and a 3M stripping pad to remove the rust. It looked like it had the measles. With a lot of rust in straight lines. It looked like the rust was under the paint. The paint was very old and chalky. The 3M pad goes down to metal very quickly. There were about 3-4 areas with rust all the way thru.<!----><!---->
Levi spent the afternoon cleaning the cab with the grinder. I looked at work. Late afternoon I took over on the grinder and Levi helped Luke with rental stuff.<!----><!---->
I am going to stop copying pics to post and let you open attachments. It's too time consuming.
Rich
All
My plan was to get the cab painted on Friday, because Tim was coming home this weekend and I would be more limited in what I could get done on Sat. Well more rust cleaning and bondo work. We removed the front bumper and them metal hinges on the box. All carriage bolts on the box have to be ground off because of rust or they were ground off in the 1st place.<!----><!----><!---->
In the afternoon we put the Rustoleum primer on in the spray cans. We used rusty metal primer on areas where we could get down to bare metal (crevices and corners) and the bare metal primer on the rest of the cab. <!----><!---->
Then we painted the box, and parts to be used on the gate, with 2 coats of SW latex house paint. Then we sanded the primer. And we worked some more on getting the gate hardware off and cleaned up and primed.
Pic #91 is a picture of the help.
Rich<!----><!---->
All
The old gate had 3 parts. The 2 outside panels were on hinges but they locked into the bed. The center panel moved up and down in a track for dumping grain. For our purposes we want 2 doors that will swing completely open for dumping. So we are going to have to build new doors and reuse the hinges.<!----><!----><!---->
I really wanted to get the cab painted on Fri so Sat would be free for Tim. But it was really windy on Fri. It was hard to get the primer on. <!----><!---->
On Sat morning the wind had gone down, Luke and Levi went off the do rental projects on their places and I prepared t do the painting. I did some billing 1 thing in the morning and the lumber for the bed showed up about 8:30. Fresh 20' long PT 2x8s. Light as a feather. LOL<!----><!---->
I set up ladders and scaffolding to do the painting and raised the bed out of the way. Got all the neighbors cars moved out of harms way and I sprayed Rustoleum white with my airless sprayer. Several of you posted a 3 coat method similar to Ponytl's method. So that's what I did. Light coat, 30 minutes later main coat and 3rd coat was a hot coat with acetone as the thinner. A big thank you to all who offered painting advice. Vehicle painting is not my strong point.<!----><!---->
You can see every spot that we used the 3M pad to remove the rust. But from 30’ away it looks great.<!----><!---->
I was done by noon. By 1:30 it was dry to the touch. I helped Levi with his rental project in the afternoon, and then about 4:30 I started on the truck floor. I worked on the floor until about 10:00 that night.
I covered the metal frame with a roofing membrane (peel and stick), plastic on one side and sticky bitumen on the other as an isolation membrane.
I still have to put the bumper on and the grille, some lights and then build the gate system.<!----><!---->
Then it can go into service hauling all things disgusting and rotten to their final resting place.
Rich<!----><!---->
Your help looks dog tired.
Mark
He is 14 years old. All he does is sleep anymore, until we get the shotguns out.
Then he thinks he is a pup again. LOL
He's been a good dog, except for all the times he escaped for a run.
Rich
All my dogs are escape artists. The worse was a husky. She died at 14, but a month or two before that she tried to run off, more of a fast walk than a run, so I caught her. I think that was the only time I ever caught her running. God rest her soul, what a good dog.
Mark
Same spirit, different dogs.
Rich
Hey, your truck looks good from here.Here's the new pup, and I have a Boston terrier, and 2 black labby like dogs that both can jump a 6' tall fence.And ole Tonka, who can't be replaced.
Heck of a hoist on that thing. I don't think you'll ever stall it...
Happiness, n.: An agreeable sensation arising from contemplating the misery of another.
Boss
I wish I would have gotten a before picture of the hoist and the caked on mud and grease.
PTO cable is pretty stiff. I have been working it with oil from the top and WD 40 on the outside of the cable.
This hoist goes up alot farther than the old truck. Most loads on the old truck came out except for a few.
Rich
Notfernuttin' but where's the photos of the finished product? I wanna see your happy face smilin' back at me, off a shiny fender. Or at least a few shots of the truck, all put back together.
HVC
Sorry i didn't post any pics of the finished product. Tape on the windows and a tarp over it are not finished enough for you.
That Sat morning I had a bunch of pictures to post. As in the 1st post I tried to copy the pics into the story line. It was pretty time consuming and clumsy procedure.
Anyway only Mark H responed. So (tears in my eyes) methinks nobody gives a hoot about an old guy with an old truck. Then McDesign posts about his project and it got the thread back to life and seems people are seeing the pics for the 1st time.
We spent the 1st hour or 2 all last week doing little things to the truck. Then I spent about 5-6 hours on it last Sat just putting finishing touches to it.
Then I moved it to a lot where I can store it.
I have to go out and look at several jobs tonight. I swing by a get a couple of finished pics.
Rich
I've been very interested to see the rest of your work on the truck, all along.
You can be sure, just from all the responses, that there's a good number of guys on BT who have dabbled in auto/truck/motorcycle/etc. painting and will be interested to see how your efforts have paid off.
HVC
Okay here are some pics.
I am not happy with the quality. Couldn't figure out how to get timer to work so that i could get in the pic and I was working alone tonight.
Time was short, truck is in an old ready mix bay and the sun was too strong, so that is what you get.
Sometimes threads don't seem to stay current very long. I'll post some stuff and 1/2 day later it's not even in the All threads category, so maybe that's what happened.
Other times I'll post something and I get responses right away.
We put 1" conduit on the side of the box to make it easier to climb into to adjust the load of to loosen the chains when it is time to dump. Ususally leave chains off when doing tear off.
As you can see the truck is already doing it's part to rid the world of un wanted construction debris.
Rich
I'm thinking some flames woud look good on tht new paint job. Class it up you know?
left
I agree.
Probably won't past the committee though.
Rich
Looks like you did very well with the paint, particularly considering that it's your first time shooting a big area, most of which requires ladders.
Sometimes threads don't seem to stay current very long. I'll post some stuff and 1/2 day later it's not even in the All threads category, so maybe that's what happened.
Yeah. This one disappeared quickly, over the weekend, for reasons unknown. It's not as if there's a bunch of threads being posted in the "photo" folder but I couldn't find it until it popped up today.
HVC
More pics
Last one is of the family.
I'm in the yellow shirt.
Back row Dad, DW Shari, Lukes wife Steph, Daughter Sarah
Front Row Sons Levi, Tim and Luke
Sarah will be coming home the 23rd from a 3 week trip to Europe with People to People. She saw Paris, Lyons, French Rivera, Monoco, Pisa, Florence, Rome, Mt. Vesuvius, Sicily and Malta and every thing you can see in each of those cities.
Rich
truck ... and family .. look great.
I been following along.
what'd it run ya ballpark total ...
and new tires or did they come with?
as long as it starts and stops looks like a winner.
definitely break up all the white with a coupla company signs.
Jeff Buck Construction
Artistry In Carpentry
Pittsburgh Pa
Jeff
Truck $2500
Credit for good tires on old truck $300
So price was $2,200
My mechanic/farm juck collector found it. He brought alot of things up to snuff.
Lights, brakes, muffler, one tire and assorted other stuff. He got the old tires off the other truck.
With improvements i am at about $3,300 right now.
Tires are all okay. Landfill is only 3-4 miles away.
Rich
I been following along ... because even though I don't have anywhere to park a beast like that ... I'd love to add something like that to the work force.
glad U brought it up in the first place.
Jeff Buck Construction
Artistry In Carpentry
Pittsburgh Pa
Great thread !!I would have painted that hood, semi-gloss black.Big white expanses like that, often blind me when I drive.If they don't outright blind me, the glare wears me out pretty quickly.
Trying to reason with someone who just wants to argue or insult, is not a reasonable pursuit.
Click here for access to the Woodshed Tavern
Luka
We get into a terrible state of indecision when it comes to color selection.
It came white, the work vans are all white. so white it is.
Rich
The truck looks good to me - Better 'n most farm trucks I've driven.The conduit was a good idea. I can't tell you how many times I've had to climb into trucks for one reason or another. Threads take on a life of their own. You never know what will strike people's fancy, and what will get zero responses. There's no rhyme or reason to it.
I want to eliminate human suffering - namely mine.
Boss
Threads are a fickle creature. They take on a life of their own. Going places you didn't intend to in the 1st place.
Rich
Thanks for sharing the photo of your great family. The love shining through all your faces is wonderful to behold.
You haven't added anything to your thread on Tim lately. Is he still opening the hearts of everyone who meets him, as he does mine? Nice to see him with his brothers. That's a great bond they've got going.
What a fine adventure for your daughter. Should be fun for you all to relive it with her.
Thanks for mentioning People to People. I hadn't been aware of that organization, until just now when I searched for their web site.
Edited 7/22/2008 6:19 am by Hudson Valley Carpenter
HVC
I'll try to do an update on Tim in that thread soon. I'll post to you.
The answer depends on how I am feeling about the situation at the time.
Rich
Man, I GOT yer back. Just use the Rustoleum "white" (actually it's light gray) primer; quarts and gallons at Depot. Roll it several coats, wet sand it, then roll on several coats of your color, and wet sand up through maybe 1500; less if it's a light final color.
Cheap materials, but some labor. Add 1 part acetone to two parts paint and primer just before you use it - don't leave it in the can mixed like that more than a day or so, it will make little clots.
Use the small foam rollers, white, that say "ultra-fine finish"
Forrest - cheap
McDesign
You're too late. The deed has been done. Got to work on it some more tonight.
Maybe I'll get a chance to post about it with pics yet tonight.
Rich
Here's my effort this weekend -
Turned out wavier than I thought once I got a nice long rubber block! Saturday morning -View Image
3rd coat (of 6-7) rolled on this AM - takes about ten minutes; keep the roller in a bag, pour the thinned paint back in the can, wipe out the roller tray.
View Image
Forrest
Edited 7/21/2008 6:51 am ET by McDesign
McDesign
Wow
Looks like you are getting a nice finish with just a roller.
I'm impressed.
Rich
Rich
The truck is looking almost to good to be used for roof tear off's.
Gonna stencil the name of your company on the side of the doors?
Doug
Doug
I know, it looks too good. Brand new floor. Wait until I get a chimney to tear down. We'll be carrying those bricks down the ladder one at a time. LOL
Yes I am thinking about out name and logo on the side.
I loaned out the old truck a couple of times and everyone in town thought i was doing that job. It didn't matter that some one elses pickup was there. My old beast was there so it was my job. LOL
Rich
I decided I didn't want the "Rustoleum White" on the nose. The engine cover is that, and it's just too white to match the decades-old yellowed gel-coat.I found (on a hot-rod site) that Sherwin-Williams had a Rustoleum-like enamel that could be color-matched. I took a small piece of the body and had it matched.
View ImageSeems to match darn well - won't be able to tell exactly 'til it's sanded.I pulled the engine cover off as well, and am coating that, too.I had three coats of white already on; I've added four more of off-white. Maybe a couple more this weekend.Forrest
Edited 7/26/2008 8:27 am ET by McDesign
McDesign
I am not a car buff.
What kind of car is this? Are you doing a restore of the whole thing? Inside and out?
The 1st pic looks good. I am amazed by the nice finish with the small rollers.
Rich
It's a car I've wanted since HS - finally found one a couple years ago - with just 5000 miles! I'm not restoring it (didn't need it); just tyring to modify it into what I envsion it as - think of it like sculpture.
Also gonna' try to go 200 mph at the East Coast Timing Association trials some day.
Forrest - 1978 Mid_Engineering Kelmark
Also gonna' try to go 200 mph at the East Coast Timing Association trials some day.
http://www.motorcycle-usa.com/Article_Page.aspx?ArticleID=5375&Page=2
Both my work trucks ,78 Chev cube, 81 Ford flatbed, were done with Rustoleum rattle cans.
Heck when the body rot starts showing again a thin coat of bondo, rattle some primer, quick hit with the color coat and I am good to go for another year.
They can't get your Goat if you don't tell them where it is hidden.
I did my first van , a 65 Falcon (No lie) with Rust=o=leum and a quick wipe with Kerosene before the shows ( bacjk then it was cool to be a Vanner)
Looked sweet, but the shine faded fast..LOL
View Image
That ain't mine, the pic of mine is a newspaper copy after I wrecked and hit the tarmac at 60 mph, I went out the front hit the road, aand the drivers side door hit me again..I TBoned a VW bug, we both barely lived, I moved the vans FE over 16" and split the Vdub in two..60 mph to a complete stop in one second is about 12 or more G's..LOL
That esplainsit lucy
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations
You gonna play that thing?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=32Ln-SpJsy0
Edited 7/12/2008 10:10 pm ET by Sphere
Cargin
Your best source for a inexpensive paint that is still durable is go to Fleet farm or other farm supply discount place and buy tractor paint there.. Significantly lower cost! Last time I bought it was only about $15.00 a gallon I suppose it's higher now but it doesn't have all the mark-up that automotive paint has.
True you don't have all the shades and variety of colors that you can get at automotive places but the paint is good and durable. I painted several race cars with it over the years and some of those cars still have that same paint on them.
frenchy
Went to Bomgaars (farm store) for the paint. Cost was $29/ gal.
Thanks
Rich