Replies

1. 
   TomT226 | Jan 18, 2004 03:11pm | #1

   Don't know what color the carcases are, but when you purchase the lam you might want to take a piece with you so you can color match it.

   I believe Wilsonart or Formica is making a solid lam that doesn't show the black line like the older products. Check your supplier or websites.

   As far as the carcases are concerned, I'd lam the edges before I assemble them. The corners can be a problem because when you trim, it will leave a small radius not taken out by the cutter. Then you gotta go in with a file and smooth it out.

   I think I'd dry fit on cab to see how things go together before lamming the edges so you won't have any surprises.

   If you have to use the older lam, edgeband the edges, trim, and then the cover the faces and backs. That'll hide the edge somewhat from face on inspection.

   Be sure to break all the edges to prevent chipping.

   Get a good laminate trimmer and a slitter.

   I like the solvent base applied with a roller.

1. 
   oldjerry | Jan 19, 2004 10:26am | #4

   Thank you all for the great advice. The table saw idea seems doable and I like the idea of using a laminate trimmer against a table edge. I was looking to purchase the Porter-Cable 7310. Any opinions on this model or other reccommendations?

   Snips seem like an inexpensive and safe option. Are they very time consuming?

   Edited 1/19/2004 2:29:25 AM ET by Jerry

1. 
   IMERC | Jan 19, 2004 10:34am | #5

   Bosch make a laminate trimmer kit with a lot of bells and whistles..

   Sweet little tool... 

   Who ever invented work didn't know how to fish....

1. 
   Sphere | Jan 20, 2004 12:58am | #6

   IMERC nailed it...get the bosch kit..worth every penny an then some..really nice rig.

2. 
   Steve1 | Jan 19, 2004 01:49am | #2

   first of all get postform grade laminate if you can, its much thinner and wont through off your cabinet dimensions

   i use lepages latex contact cement and roll it on using a low nap paint roller

   laminate can be cut accurately on a table saw with a chunk of mdf or particle board clamped to the table to form a zero clearance slot and tp prevent laminate from slipping under the fence

   for cutting large sheets a large flat work surface is perfect, clamp the laminate at the desired cut line and use the table edge as a guide for a router with a 1/4 pilotting bit

3. 
   ccal | Jan 19, 2004 04:50am | #3

   A laminate slitter is about a hundred bucks and works great for cutting strips from 3/4 to about 5 inches. Table saw will also work as will snips if you are carefull. Look into pvc edgebanding tape also, if put on carefully it woks well too. when i have to use laminate for edges i do it first then the face and back so the trimmer runs on the finished edge not the face in case there is a burn or blemish.

4. 
   RJT | Jan 20, 2004 01:15am | #7

   Jerry: if you lam the back of the door first, then edge it there will be a tendency for the door to warp. It is best to do both sides at once. It is okay to edge first as the slight black edge of the lam on the back will rarely be viewable, covered either from other doors, or facing the bottom, or under a countertop.

   If you live near a commercial cabinet shop with an edgebander, ask what it would cost for them to do the work. Definitely edge before assembly.

   If you are not familiar with PVC tape, find out about that. It can be put on the doors after they are laminated and leave no black line. It should only be applied via an edgebander with hot melt glue.

   If you edge band the doors yourself be careful when trimming them. You will want to sand them flush, but be careful not to slope the surface of the door with a belt sander, best to use a sanding block.

   On doors and drawer fronts apply the top and bottom edge first.

   Route with a carbide straight bit against laminate by spraying with "countertop magic" to keep the bit from scarring, burning the laminate. A bevel bit will save considerable time after straight bit work.

   Rolling water-based contact works well, if you use solvent-based contact, buy a cheap sprayer, $20 or so. The solvent deforms the rubber bushings in time.
1. 
   oldjerry | Jan 20, 2004 04:05pm | #8

   Thanks RJT,

   Just to be clear (I have very little laminating experience), do you you mean that I should glue up both sides of the door and both sheets of lam at once?

   All,

   Thanks to all for the great comments, but I have one more question. Since the cases are made of two sided melamine there are a couple of situations where I'd have to cover the melamine with laminate. Any problems in doing this?

   Jerry

1. 
   steve | Jan 21, 2004 04:15am | #9

   no problem laminating over melamine, just lightly sand the surface to rove the sheen and laminate away, id do both sides though if posible or the cabinet side may warp, trouble is of course youll cover up all those predrilled holes, so try just one piece first an see if it warps

   edge banding with melamine preglued tape is a good option, use an iron or a heat gun and roll down well while hot, trim excess off with a sharp plane blade and lighly sand the edgecaulking is not a piece of trim

1. 
   oldjerry | Jan 21, 2004 08:19am | #10

   Steve,

   I don't want to have to lam the inside of the cabinet. Besides covering all those holes, it also won't match the rest of the interior.

   I'm not sure I understand the warping thing. RJT also mentioned it. Are you concerned that there is enough of a difference in the permeability of melamine and HPL that it will cause the panel to warp?

   Jerry

1. 
   steve | Jan 22, 2004 02:03am | #11

   to be honest im not really sure and besides a little warping of the cabinet side will probably not be a problem.

   to minimize the risk, allow both the laminate and the gable to be laminated to sit in identicle environments for 24 hours preferably in the environment(ie the kitchen) that they will be in

   i have laminated many surfaces both cabinet parts and countertops and the biggest concern is differential shrinkage/expansion, however with relatively small parts and a careful laminating job, you should be ok

   ps: if you are cutting up large sheets, build a table as large as your laminate sheet with a reasonably straight edge and use the straight edge and a router or laminate trimmer to cut the pieces, cut them about 1/2 inch oversize, laminate and trim after with a 1/4 cutter with a bearing guide

   in my shop i have a 5 ft by 12 table and cutting/handling laminate is a breeze

   any other questions/suggestions feel free, its not difficult to laminate stuff, but myself and others here have lots of advicecaulking is not a piece of trim