Replies

1. 
   pbbuilds | May 16, 2015 06:42pm | #1

   no caulk

   your detail is good it would be better if there was a 1/4 to 1/2" gap between the siding and deck the air will dry up any small amount of water that may creep. sweep it out once and awhile to keep clear, caulk wont look good. Some situations do require a second custom made" counterflashing". It sits on top of decking and goes behind housewrap and siding.

   It needs to look nice, custom bent alum. with folded a seam and double bend which will extend just past the siding. the double bend will act like a spring of sorts providing flex and always keeping tension on the deck surface so water doesn't push underneath. it would be" L" shaped with an extra bend on the tip that is angled down and folded over, it needs to be double thick to work well.

2. 
   mark122 | May 16, 2015 07:32pm | #2

   yes use metal flashing. they make z flashing with for 2x material. make sure the part of the metal flashing that turns up the wall ends up behind your house wrap.

   the siding you end up using will determine how much of a separation you need between the floor and bottom of the siding.

3. 
   john7g | May 17, 2015 08:28am | #3

   water table?

   This may be a good place to remove the bottom run of siding and put in a water table with a drip edge. SEal the ends of your T&G that will sit in this area.

   Any photos of this area? 

4. 
   deadnuts | May 17, 2015 10:19am | #4

   YOu say your rebuilding a

   YOu say you're rebuilding a "covered" porch. By covered, I take this to mean covered from the elements. Also, based on your moniker, I'm guessing you're in Colorado where most places seem to experience avg. annual rainfall is less than 20". Based on your planned details, I'd say you have little to worry about in terms of protection from moisture at the deck-to-house juncture.

   Even if you have storms blow moisture in from the ends, it will dry out in short order; particularly if you don't caulk. Caulk is a secondary water seal, probably won't last long, probably look like hell, and is not necessary in your case.

1. 
   coloradotrout | May 17, 2015 03:09pm | #5

   Thanks... yes.. caulk is a double edged sword in most places in my opinion.  For the exact reason one intends to use it, it ends of making it worse.   I will plan to attach the siding 3/8" or so above the flooring.   I'll have a little issue right at the door threshold.

1. 
   deadnuts | May 17, 2015 06:52pm | #6

   Coloradotrout, you make a keen observation about caulk that many fail to realize. When you add in that many folks use the cheapest caulk available, use the wrong type for the wrong reasons, and install it improperly, it  usually becomes a receipe for disaster.

   But as the saying goes," A little caulk and paint makes a carpenter what he aint".

   For a few years, maybe.

1. 
   coloradotrout | May 18, 2015 01:06am | #7

   Any suggestions on what to do at the door threshhold?  It will extend out onto the t&g flooring.  I'm very concerned with water getting back into that area and rotting out the flooring or theshold.  Near as I can tell, the door opening is not flashed in any way.

   I bought some self adhering type flashing at Menards.  It's not Grace Vycor, but seems to work similar, although it does seem to lose its adhesion over time.   Last fall, I used it to flash from the bottom of the sheathing up about 8" above where the ledger would be.  (I removed 2 rows of 12" siding - about 1 row will need to go back on).  Then I bolted on the ledger, and put another layer of self adhering flashing 4" up the sheathing (atop the first layer) out over the 1.5" of the ledger and then 1" down the ledger.   My plan was to then nail metal deck flashing atop that, and finally, apply another layer of self adhering flashing atop the metal flashing to seal the top edge of the metal flashing to the first layer of self adhering flashing I installed.  (Note my other post where I state I do NOT have housewrap - none, no WRB at all, just siding atop OSB.   

   Also.. should I do anything below the ledger board?   The self adhering flashing is atop the OSB.  That is all I have there.   Once the flooring is inplace that area will be pretty well protected.   I thought the self adhering flashing would be a final top layer.  

5. 
   coloradotrout | May 19, 2015 12:26am | #9

   "

   "

1. 
   deadnuts | May 18, 2015 10:02pm | #8

   Welcome to the high tech world of F.H. Breaktime. Mods watching you? Don't flatter yourself. When it comes to watching, I believe the  only watching F.H. is concerned about is the watching of pop-ups paid for by sponsors. Those cycle flawlessly, unabated,.and with abandon.  Spam will usually get fished out pretty quickly because, after all, they ain't payin'.

   Anyhow, looks like you've engineered a work around. Proves, once again, that there's always more than one way to skin a cat.

1. 
   coloradotrout | May 19, 2015 12:28am | #10

   I run AdBlock -- does a nice job.   Still the pages load slower.   Do you frequent any other forums?

2. 
   coloradotrout | May 19, 2015 04:41pm | #11

   reposted  here

   http://www.diychatroom.com/f19/need-ledger-flashing-details-273010/#post2069833