Replies

1. 
   mikerooney | Dec 11, 2003 11:40am | #1

   What's your reveal? I've had similar problem where we shortened them up a bit under a window. I think that inch and a quarter may be a little short - you should have that much into the stud. Time to buy another gun!

1. 
   alwaysoverbudget | Dec 12, 2003 04:10am | #4

   i'm using the 8.25 siding,with a seven inch exposure.sometimes i go back and hit the nails with a hammer just to make sure that there set down good. i'm about to start dabbing a little pl glue to the top edge so that when the next one overlaps it's stuck!!!thanks for the input,it's so cold here that i don't think much will be happening for a few days.

1. 
   Kyle | Dec 12, 2003 07:14am | #5

   We had that problem on a job where we went behind some bad framers, and we went back to the trouble spots with a galvanized trim nail. Didn't take all that many.

   They also have a hardi clip that will set the exposure and grab the bottom of the piece. I haven't ever personally used them, but a good friend of mine did on his shop. He did the whole shop (20x24) by himself in a day with no experience.

   Don't know if the clip would do any good in reality because you would have to know where the "pushout" will happen before you put the piece on. but the trim nails might help.

1. 
   ANDYSZ2 | Dec 12, 2003 07:51am | #6

   The clip doesn't hold the bottom tight it just sets the reveal and eases installation.Trim gun with 1 inch  nails and a dab of caulk works for me .

   ANDYSZ2I MAY DISAGREE WITH WHAT YOUR SAYING BUT I WILL DEFEND TO THE DEATH YOUR RIGHT TO SAY IT.

1. 
   alwaysoverbudget | Dec 12, 2003 08:08am | #7

   kyle,if i follow what your saying,your taking a finish nailer and shooting it along the bottom,then cover it with caulk? what gauge nails are you using? i guess that they are not galvanized and thats why the caulk. i like this idea that it would be pretty much invisible and would go pretty quick. thanks larry

2. 
   joeh | Dec 12, 2003 09:21am | #8

   Sounds like a bad idea to me. Those nails will eventually rust and bleed through.

   Sooner or later, they'll be back.

   Joe H

3. 
   butch | Dec 12, 2003 01:07pm | #9

   The only trim nails that I've ever seen have always been galv.  Do you still think they

   would rust?

4. 
   xMikeSmith | Dec 12, 2003 03:27pm | #10

   the only face nails we use with FC are SS.. 8d coil nails with our Bostich siding gun..

   all the rest are blind nailed.. and they are HD Galv  ( Maze ).. why would you use a product that will last forever  applied with a fastener that will rust ?

   Mike Smith   Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore

5. 
   edwardh1 | Dec 12, 2003 04:21pm | #11

   I though EG nails rust.

   Only ss or Hot dipped do not rust.

   I REALLY WONDER WHAT THE MARKET IS FOR EG NAILS?

   why have them at all - too many people use them where they then rust

6. 
   mikerooney | Dec 12, 2003 06:01pm | #12

   I think what's more important here, he said he's using 1 1/4" roofing nails. Should be 2 1/4" siding nails, though I don't think that has anything to do with the gap problem. What is the stud spacing? What kind of sheathing?

7. 
   edwardh1 | Dec 12, 2003 09:56pm | #13

   hardie spec sheet says roofers nails are ok - but i can not remember the length they specify

   edit - they say

   Wood framing: 1 ¼" corrosion resistant roofing nails.

   ****OR****

   A. Wood framing: 1 ½" corrosion resistant roofing nails.

   ****OR****

   Edited 12/12/2003 1:58:33 PM ET by wain

8. 
   mikerooney | Dec 12, 2003 10:36pm | #14

   Just checked hardie inst. spec., you're right, but it still doesn't sound right to me. I was just certified for certainteed siding, must have stuck in my head - they say min. penetration into the stud - 1 1/4".

   Hardie says blind nail is good only for 16" centers.

   re: Hot dips, back when we used to hand nail ext. decks, occasionally would knock plating off of hot dips.

   I'd say: get some stainless ring shank siding nails and use only where needed.

   Hope this helps.

   Hope it warms up a little too!

9. 
   edwardh1 | Dec 13, 2003 01:16am | #15

   yaeh hardie suggest of 1 1/4 seems short

10. 
    alwaysoverbudget | Dec 13, 2003 07:24am | #16

    i thought a 1 1/4 sounded okay being as the siding is only 5/16 thick.should i be hitting the studs every 16"? i'm using 30# tar paper for house wrap so when that goes on i'm losing the studs and just nailing,so maybe that is one of the problems in that i'm only hitting osb most of the time.whats the easiest fastest way to keep track of stud locations? the weather hasn't gotten any better-this afternoon i'm on a 13/12 roof siding a dormer while it's snowing! you know when i was 13 i can only imagine how much fun i could of had sliding off that roof into a snow drift but doesn't sound like so much fun now at 48! thanks larry

11. 
    mikerooney | Dec 13, 2003 07:52am | #17

    Hate to be the bearer of bad news, but if you'r only hitting the OSB, you'll need to face nail the whole thing. Go to hardie website and download installation instructions. If it is that bad out,  you wouldn't see me.

12. 
    Framer | Dec 13, 2003 09:45am | #18

    Check this out by our own Tim Uhler. He did this article for JLC.

    http://www.jlconline.com/cgi-bin/jlconline.storefront/3fdab4940018b6a3271a401e1d290676/Product/View/0312inst

    Joe Carola

13. 
    UncleDunc | Dec 13, 2003 09:55am | #19

    If I were to sheath the wall with 1 1/4" ply, would that be an adequate base for blind nailing?

14. 
    mikerooney | Dec 13, 2003 05:31pm | #20

    James Hardie website has inst. spec. you can download in PDF.

    Read carefully, not just what you want to hear.

    They have some sort of disclaimer about "high wind" situations.

    You have to be a *&^%# lawyer and a detective to accomplish anything these days.

    I was talking with my SIL a couple weeks ago ( he sells a lot of the stuff), and he mentioned that most of the guys buying from him were using screws.

    Didn't question him at the time - just thought to myself how so many people seem so enamored w/ these cordless drills.

    How much area do you have to cover? With the price of sheet goods there ought to be a better solution.

15. 
    Kyle | Dec 14, 2003 04:35am | #21

    I don't use a trim nailer or nails for interior trim. I ususally use what ever type of casing nail that I have in my box which is usually 1-1/4" or 1-1/2". And they are galvanized so they won't rust.

    As for as the caulking goes, I leave that to the painter. So i'm not sure what he uses. I assume he probably caulks it.

    One more thing, if you do this while you are installing the peices, you can put them in the studs with no problem. Just put a few nails in your pouch and if you see a problem just throw a nail in here and there.

    Edited 12/13/2003 8:36:52 PM ET by Kyle

2. 
   jhausch | Dec 11, 2003 02:35pm | #2

   Are the electro - galv nails the really shiny ones?  Could slippery nails combined with not enough nail into not enough wood be the problem?

   Steelkilt Lives!
3. 
   xMikeSmith | Dec 11, 2003 03:45pm | #3

   with blind nailing we use either a Maze Hot Dipped Galv 1 3/4" roofer

   or a 6d hot dipped galv sidewall nail..... watch your exposure.. keep the lap to max..

   make sure each course is calmping the one below before you hang the one above.

   Mike Smith   Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore