Need stripper advice from the North East
McDesign
| Posted in Construction Techniques on
Hey – I know you guys traditionally strip ceilings before DW. I’ve never done it, but have had to here to create a strong flat plane.
Okay, but I have some questions about corners. I made them up to a string line, so they are a straight “V”,
BUT – On inside corners, do I butt them, which leaves the DW unsupported between the 16″ OC 1×4, like this –
Or weave them long, which means at least one side is supported every 8″, like this –
And also, on exterior corners, how do you create them? This is woven long, marked, and sliced with a Sawzall, but will it need anything more than the plastic corner tape?
Thanks, you NorthEast strippers!
Forrest – not a stripper
Edited 2/14/2007 6:04 pm by McDesign
Edited 2/14/2007 6:04 pm by McDesign
Edited 2/14/2007 6:05 pm by McDesign
Edited 2/14/2007 6:06 pm by McDesign
Replies
I butt them together then use additional blocks in the corners to keep the edge true.
On outside I run one side long, then butt the other side to the inside face and snap a chalk line. Figure out the angle on your saw and your done
i'll "stripper " you..
it's "strapping" or " furring", dammit
here in RI it would be "furring"
inside corners are pretty much what you've done
outside corners we will often use 1x6 instead of the usual 1x3
View Image
and we will build a corner.. i do this because the framing behind the strapping likes to move with the seasonal changes of humidity... especially in corners
but if both pieces of the gypsum are fastened to the same sub-base ( the 1x6 corner strapping ) then they are not going to move
..... of course the same can happen on an inside corner .. so if you think that's a possibility.. then make a cub-base corner there too..
as you have by now found out.. that 3/4" plane you get with furring makes a lot of things possible that are harder to do with framing
like light bases.... or fan supports.. you can easily slip in a piece of 3/4 ply anywhere in your 3/4 furring plane
i think you're gonna like furring your ceilings.... it's so... so......
.........civilized
Edited 2/14/2007 6:55 pm ET by MikeSmith
<inside corners are pretty much what you've done>
Yeah, but which side? Woven or butted? Are both okay?
Thanks for the real STRAPPER input -
Forrest
I saw the pic you posted and realized you have the same issue I am facing. The preform shower only goes so high. The shower head comes out above that. How are you going to address that space between the top of the surround and the ceiling? I've got a client that bought a really cheap (1/8" plastic sheet) surround and I am wondering if I should be buying a full ceiling height sheet for moisture problems. I've got green board behind, so there is something to start with.
criddle.... all of our tub & shower surrounds are topped by blueboard & skim-coat plaster
we set our exhaust fan/lights so they are right on the edge of the shower /tub
and we use a nice enamel paint.. no problems with the gypsum
if you were concerned , you could use Durock in those areas and skim-coat with Durabond and finish with joint compound
but generally speaking green board should do fine .. just leave a caulk space at the bottom so you don't wind up wicking moisture from the flangeMike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
I guess I was just being too much of a worry wart being around water. Thanks, it simplifies my life!
The best advice I can give you is:NEVER date strippers.
Strippers: For men who are too financially solvent
But are they OK to rent when you need one?
Forrest,
FWIW
I ain't from the N.E. But from the N.W. so what I have done is probably not what the builders there would do.
What you are doing is uncommon here (the strapping) but I have had to do it in several old house remodels.
On both inside and outside corners I snapped a line 3 1/2"-4" back from the point of intersection on the horizontal strapping . Then held a 1 x 4 up to what is either the hip or ridge and marked where the strapping would hit it. After marking it I glued and stapled 1x blocks to the back side that were long enough to allow me to fasten thru the strapping into the blocking.(can also be done with offset 1x stock , anything that gives a surface to fasten thru the strapping into the "hip/ridge" piece)
I got a continuous nailer that way right at the corner. Nothing floats , lots of fastener area for the drywaller.
Where's the pole?
If you're gonna title threads that way, ya gotta be ready for disappointed people to ask questions.
forrest... here's an example of an outside corner
View ImageMike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
Ah. Nice.
I'm going to do the "Mooney Wall" thing, too. See how the insulator likes it with JM Spider.
Forrest
Mike,
Is that.... <gulp> ........ fiber.... glass..... behind the tub surround? On your job site? <G>
Phil
Quantum materiae materietur marmota monax si marmota monax materiam possit materiari?
phil.. john harkins asked me the same question 3 years ago
http://forums.taunton.com/tp-breaktime/messages?msg=39120.17Mike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
Were you tempted to rub some cells on it or spray paint it grey?
Quantum materiae materietur marmota monax si marmota monax materiam possit materiari?