Replies

1. 
   4Lorn1 | Sep 13, 2005 06:35am | #1

   As far as I know there is no such beast which will do all that you want.

   The 2" auger bits are easy. The 4" hole saw is not any more a problem. Getting it into the gap between 16" OC joists doesn't change much. Of the drills you show the only one which I would trust to handle these jobs regularly would be the "Milwaukee 5399 1/2" D-Handle Hammer Drill".

   This drill motor looks much like the base motor for the:
   Milwaukee 3107-6 1/2" Heavy Duty Right Angle Drill Kit.

   Pictured here:
   amazon

   On the down side it is not and is not adaptable to a hammer drill mode. You can still drill the holes for the 1/2" and 3/4" anchors in the concrete but your going to need to use conventional, non-impact, masonry bits and it will take longer.

   No real way around this. Hammerdrills demand high RPMs to drive the impact mechanism at several thousand beats per minute. The high RPMs ,and the gearing that created this speed, are not compatible with the sort of high torque you need to work large augers and hole saws without burning the drill up.

   The other kicker is that quality high-torque units are not cheap. The angle drill kit runs a smooth $234.

   You might try a something like this:
   amazon

   But it is only rated for 5/8" in concrete. The 3/4" is a stretch but one you migh get away with if you only do it occasionally, take it slow or drill only green concrete. Milwaukee has a history, particularly on their top line units, of conservatively rating their tools.

   Even if this works out you still have a hammer drill that won't easily get between joists and has limited ability to swing a 4" hole saw and augers. But you may be able to get around this buy buying a Milwaukee right-angle attachment. This would both allow the bits to get into the confined spaces and, because of the step-down gearing of the attachment you get more torque. I think the right-angle attachment will fit it, check by contacting their support line, but it will likely take some doing to change the chuck out. Of course once you do it a couple of times it will get easier.

   And it isn't cheap. The drill alone going for $229. The angle attachment is going to be more. Be aware if you order on Milwaukee also makes a smaller light-duty version that is only suitable for cordless drills and light work. It sells for under $50 but it won't last long working auger bits.

   What you want is the model # 48-06-2871 for $78.75

   A bit down on this page:
   mytoolstore

   On the up side you can also use the 33 degree extension. Could have sworn ours was a 45 degree but same idea. Never used them on the smaller hammerdril unit but with the high torque D-handle unit noted previously these are great for drilling joists. With the proper extension you can drill most joists while standing on the floor. Handy, safer and quick. But as you will note, not cheap.

   IMO what you need is a D-handle unit with a right-angle attachment and a seperate hammerdrill. Best would be to get a Hilti for those 3/4" holes but these units aren't handy for smaller Tapcons. For the two drill option with professional rated units your looking at a cool $300 - $400. The Hilti would run an additional $600 or so without bits. So figure another $200 or $300 for a selection for the various drills to get you started. No big deal only $1300.

1. 
   Dundee | Sep 14, 2005 05:50am | #5

   Good thoughts.  Thanks for the replies.  I appreciate all of your input.  I've ordered the Mil 5370-6.  -Chris-

1. 
   Billy | Sep 14, 2005 08:30pm | #6

   Someone on Breaktime once said:

   "A rotary hammer is for drilling holes in concrete and a hammer drill is for playing a joke on your helper."

   It's good advice.

   Billy

2. 
   fingers | Sep 14, 2005 01:16am | #2

   I don't think you can do it with one tool.  I'd suggest a Hole Hawg for the large slow bits and a rotary hammer (not a Hammer-drill) for the masonry stuff.

3. 
   cynwyd | Sep 14, 2005 01:54am | #3

   I've had the 1/2" Mil drill for over 20 years and it's as close as you'll  probably get to fulfilling you requirements. Actually Bosch, DeWalt and others have very similar hammerdrills.

   The shortcoming of all of them is 3/4" hard  masonry drilling is doable but the bits tend to get loose and the hole size consequently varies.

   Milwaukee Service Center told me not to put right angle attachments on the Magnum.

   get a SDS drill if you're doing much masonry drilling

4. 
   Matt | Sep 14, 2005 03:18am | #4

   I have the 1/2" Mil hammer drill.  It's a good drill but still sucks for drilling in concrete/masonry.  You need a real rotary hammer drill for that - works about 8x to 10x as fast.    I got a Hitachi for that.  Now the mil just sits in the truck.  I also have a 14v impact (wish I got the 18v) and a 3/8 Mil corded drill that I got on special, the 2 of which take care of all my light to medium duty drilling.  I guess I can use the Hatachi for HD drilling, but I really don't do much of that.  Like they said above - no one tool can do it all well.