Replies

1. 
   gdavis62 | Apr 09, 2004 05:06pm | #1

   Any door shop operation can get you oak jamb material.  I have seen solid ones and also veneered ones, and I prefer the veneered materials. 

   Making frames for interior doors is really simple.  See if they will let you in the shop out back for a walk around.  You'll see.

   Depending on where you are, a well-rounded lumberyard may have a door shop, or they may be buying their doors set up from a prehanging distributor.  Ask at the lumberyards, then go directly to the location that has the door shop.

2. 
   PhillGiles | Apr 09, 2004 06:49pm | #2

   Simple door jambs are remarkably easy to build, although it can get more complicated if stain-grade is required. A door-frame is basically two vertical jambs each with a deep rabbet across the top, inside edge, to accept the lintel (peice of the jamb that goes across the top). As the lintel is not weight bearing, a variation on this theme is to rabbet both ends of the lintel instead of the verticals; but the purpose is to fix the size of the jamb and the "squareness" of the joint.

   For a door that size and weight, my preference would be 3/4 veneer ply: double layer on the hinge side. Second choice (or stain-grade choice if you need reveals) would be 1-by with a 3/4 ply backer on the hinge side. (NB, when we go double thickness, we don't cut a rabbet on that side, we just make the inside piece shorter to form the rabbet).

   The guy I've been working with lately makes the casing (for the door-open side), on the floor, of course, attaches it to the jamb before it goes into the rough opening, sets it square/plumb and nails in the hinge-side, then hangs the door before setting the latch-side. My only other trick is to make up a temporary bottom jamb (ply with a couple of riser blocks under it) to use as a jig to eyeball if the bottom of the jamb is square.

   .

   Phill Giles

   The Unionville Woodwright

   Unionville, Ontario

1. 
   GoldenWreckedAngle | Apr 11, 2004 04:52am | #9

   Great post Phil - Thank you. The double thick ply on the hinge side makes a lot of sense. These doors are definitely heavier than hollow core pre-hungs by a long way. Kevin Halliburton

   "Do you see a man skilled in his work? He will serve before kings; he will not serve before obscure men." - Solomon

3. 
   DaveHeinlein | Apr 10, 2004 12:35am | #3

   For doors that size(7'), I would use 5/4 oak and mill the stops in it. If you leave 3/4" where the door is, you get a 3/8" stop, and all the strngth of solid oak. But there's a little more to it, like lumber selection, and machining. It's the real thing.

1. 
   Sphere | Apr 10, 2004 02:52am | #4

   Hey Kevin, I just got my first paying work since I moved to Ky in Sept. This Mornin, I got a job MAKING JAMBS for a few doors on an old oneroom school house..no kidding. Chestnut 4 panel doors 3/0x6/10..

   Here is what I am doing..starting out with 1 1/4 heart pine ( it's old and I salvaged it from the log palace here) in my case the walls are only 3 1/2" TOTAL width..board on board , no studs. So I ripped the HP to 3 5/8 and cut a rabbet 1 7/8 ( doors are 1 3/4) by 3/8 in all the parts..where the head needs to be I also rout a dado..for the head thickness (full 1 1/4) only the depth of the stop..which is the 3/8 rabbet..got it?

   I add 3/8 to the door width and 3/4 for stop thickness to arrive at a head length of 37 1/8 for a 3/0 door...these are going to be exterior so I also am making the thresholds..which are 1x 3 1/2 with a bevel rip on both edges at 30 degrees leaving a fat 1/4 on the edge and a full width 1 3/4 where the door bottom lines up...I use star drive screws to hold the head in it's dado, and leave a "horn" at the top..it can be cut off on install or left if there is room below the header..no header here tho'

   I am also priming the whole shebang she wants to paint it..I prime it all sides b4 asssembly..very simple straight forward wood project for anyone..have at it..

   BTW, if the rabbet is beyond your tools or comfort level, use nail on stops..

   View Image

   Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks

   Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations. 

1. 
   bill_1010 | Apr 10, 2004 03:50pm | #7

   she is painting the chestnut door slabs? WTF

1. 
   Sphere | Apr 11, 2004 02:04am | #8

   looks that way..I just stripped them today ( all day) an she didn't know they were chestnut when she bought them..still don't know yet..the one door was marked on the strike edge  " Chesters nuts" it is a 4 panel with an ogee pattern sticking..cleaned up real nice. maybe I can convince her to go with clear finishes..these doors had tons of paint on them, I mapp gased and scraped all day

   Now to make some good box locks outta a pile of parts..if I had a nickle for every busted spring in them things..

   View Image

   Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks

   Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations. 

4. 
   DougU | Apr 10, 2004 05:15am | #5

   Kevin

   The jambs should be pretty simple but I don't know if I would rabbit for the door stop, if the doors have any twist or warp(which can be found in old doors) you wont be able to use the nail on door stop in order to get the door to "slap" nice. I don't like to see a door hit in one spot, cant stand it actually.

   I've reused enough old doors and I do find that there can be slight twists or some minor warping in the door that a rabbited stop can cause problems.

   I think its great that you are reusing the old doors! and if you have any difficulties I'll be home all weekend, just load up your stuff and bring it by the house and I'll give you a hand.

   Doug

1. 
   GoldenWreckedAngle | Apr 11, 2004 05:00am | #10

   Come by this weekend hu? You know I had planned to be handleing this little detail when you came through town recently. I noticed you lost my number - One of those Colorado traitors must have clued you in to my evil scheme. :-)>

   Seriously, thanks Doug - Existing jambs are what I believe to be long leaf pine with nail on stops. You make a good point about the potential for slight twist not meshing well with a rabbited stop.

   I may just use that as my excuse for doing it the easy way.:-)>Kevin Halliburton

   "Do you see a man skilled in his work? He will serve before kings; he will not serve before obscure men." - Solomon

5. 
   mike4244 | Apr 10, 2004 06:41am | #6

   Kevin, rip the stock , either 3/4 or 5/4  to 1/16" wider than the finished width of the walls. The length will be the door height + 1" for bottom + head jamb thickness, usually 3/4" + 1" for dado at top of jamb. If your doors are 6'-8" tall. add 2 3/4" for a total of 6'10 3/4". Check width at the high bevel on door, may be somewhat less than 36" or your other widths. If the door is exactly 36" wide, cut the head 37" long.

   Dado 3/8" deep X head jamb thickness ( 3/4" usually) for head jamb. This will leave you a 36 1/4" opening. The bottom of the dado will be 6'-9" off the floor, this allows for 1/8" clearance at head and 7/8" at floor.Pre drill thru dado for screws. If you want you can mortice the jambs on the bench before you put it together and install it.

   It is a good idea to tack a spreader near the bottom before lifting jamb to install.The jamb is 1/16" overwide, divide this up in opening, helps when you trim door.Add door stop after door is swinging, do not nail stop tight against door on hinge side as it will bind as it closes. Leave a 1/32 " gap, nail stop tight to door after lock is installed.

   mike

1. 
   GoldenWreckedAngle | Apr 11, 2004 05:02am | #11

   Wow, what a great set of responses! Thanks for the tips Mike.Kevin Halliburton

   "Do you see a man skilled in his work? He will serve before kings; he will not serve before obscure men." - Solomon